"tien adjustable coilovers"lol Sure looks like stock shocks to me...

Well it could be related to spark. Like I said use a spare injector with the car running, connected to number 2's plug. You'll feel the injector clicking if its good. IF it does, then look at spark. IF it doesn't, look to the harness of that injector wire. I doubt it would be making noise but if...

Backwards. There wouldn't be a change in idle if there is a dead injector or spark on a specific cylinder. The problem is already engaged, unplugging the problem wont fix the problem.Yes. You are correct.I've never seen a noid light work on a DSM. I've attempted to try since everyone...

Wtf? - YouTubeI've brought this up before and everyone said "alternator", "battery" bla bla bla. Well I've been working with electrical equipment for.. .well my entire life. Alternator is good, holds on a good battery at around 13.8v. Which is how it should be. I got a new battery a short...

Back at this with new headlights. To answer some questions that were posted a few years ago, I got just the projectors (which go for 110 by themselves) for 60. Not the entire kit. I also cheap'ed out on ebay (xentec) Balasts and HIDS's. Which I've had good luck with them in the past using D2R...

I don't get whats with all the "split" information throughout tuners. I've searched and cannot come up with a legit answer.I recently pulled my 1g 7bolt out of my car and replaced it with a Evo3/RVR Block/Head. I rebuilt the Evo Motor with new bearings. The Bearings I chose were 92-99 4g63...

Car starts up and runs every time I crank it. But I haven't really boosted it. I haven't even tightened up my couplers yet. But I'm glad I got this info. I now have more time to get a new knock sensor. Damn transmission didn't seal :( Its always one problem after the next.

I have been told that a knock sensor that looks wet like its leaking is bad. Well all my spare knock sensors are the same way. I cannot afford one right now, is it bad to daily drive the car with no knock sensor? I've gotten into boost a little bit but not too heavy and it apparently is...

:applause:ROFL

Then why are exhausts made of steel and stainless steel and titanium? IDK just doesn't seem right.I'm thinking I should get 2x more 45*'s or something like that to add more of an angle on my downpipe so that I can add room for my oil filter. Its gonna suck to have to remove the exhaust in...

I'll def have pictures on here when I finish it. I need to rob a bank to buy a welder hehe.I don't get the whole aluminum exhaust system. how the hell does aluminum hold up to the heat?

^^^ lol I'm a 1pc Turbo Back currently. Can't afford to spend cash on Vband clamps. 4 cost 100 bucks!Well I will be 1pc tomorrow. Gonna do my dp portion and the wastegate and then finish up the exhaust. Very low profile. Gonna shove 10ft of straight pipe up there where its not even visible if...

I used a 120*. It is perfect for going straight under the oil pan. Depends on how you do it, you'll have lots of room or very little room. I'm thinking of redoing mine due to I'll have to remove my exhaust to change my oil. lol. Whoops! haha.

^^^ That is gorgeous! I will have another chance to get at my exhaust. Found a local 4g63 guy with a huge very high dollar tig and shop. And got my dp on the car to find it was done wrong, angled up towards the firewall lol. So will drive the car over and do it this next weekend.I'm sure...

I have rear O2 on the rom set to simulated.So I wired it in. So far seems good. But I'm on most likely a bad tune, Stock Evo8 Maps with 450 scaling and 2g maf scaling.Thanks for all the info. I guess my Evoscan is expired so I cannot log right now but oh well. I think I got it right.