I'm out by Fayetteville... I really need to get better about checking the forums.

I'm on here infrequently, but even before now everyone seems to have left

Did the car actually ever run right since you've had it? I'm not imparting blame, just trying to isolate if there was a change that happened. A logger of some sort would help, you can look at a few things that could help figure it I think. I may have a few days later next week PM me if you're...

Tuning with a MAF-T isn't the best solution. It's kinda like trying to kill a mosquito with a tack hammer, sure it's fun trying it, but not really too useful. Without a CEL or some sort of logging method, there's really a limited set of standard answers to give. I'm also assuming that you're...

I'll be honest, that's nowhere near enough to provide even a shadow of a prognosis for you situation. Things like boost leaks, exhaust leaks, base settings not being set to spec would be a few things I looked at. Also what tuning solution are you looking at? Are you running a wideband O2 sensor...

fwbt submitted a new DSM Profile :Fwbt's Street BuildRead more about this vehicle here...

Power flows to the ECU. You need to find out why you only have 4.2V going to the relay. Just test for voltage at every connector prior to the relay. Once you find where it's not 12V you have the wire to start looking at.

The Viscous Coupler (VC) is internal to the transmission, located right next to the 5th gear set. If you lower the transmission you may be able to get that cover off, I've never attempted that. Welding the center diff isn't going to help as the power still has to be transferred through the VC.

You'd need a VCE to have it put power to the front wheels.

You'd have to have a Viscous coupler eliminator installed. By the sound of it you want to leave the transfer case installed too, that won't work as the shaft is what helps seal the fluid in.

Both will cause you to go into open loop. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepointsI know on a 1g an open causes a low reading and short would be high. As far as troubeshooting the CTS sensor would be cheaper and easier to replace. IMHO, keeping it in open loop might have an effect...

Well, it was rather specific in the book. At 176*F you should see about .26-.36. I'd bet bad luck on the sensor. I'd drop a thermometer in there just to be safe on that call.

At this point I'd rig up a potentiometer to work in the CTS harness. With the key on, make the fans turn on/off with the potentiometer. It's the exact same concept as the CTS itself. Measure the resistance across the potentiometer, if it's way off spec then you have an issue back towards the...

Not so fast, there's a resistor pack on the firewall. The NT's didn't have those. I bet if you look under the intake you'll either find a knock sensor or a plug for a knock sensor at least. This at best would be a peeling back the layers approach to see what injectors are actually in there, they...