Excuse my lack of knowledge there but I've only seen two types of lock washers used on these bolts, split & teeth (for lack of knowing its real name). Didnt know there were other kinds to consider but can say these two types work correctly even after more than one use.
I run the FFWD Arp kit and my issue was the flat washers. Bolts kept backing out no matter how much I tqed them, tried blue n red threadlocker, same thing. Switched to lock washers n no issues since, you can use the split washers or the ones with curved teeth. Kinda look like a fan.
Yes the car will run fine, assuming all other possible issues are addressed. Now if you notice (and you will) the car breaking up in the 5-5.5k range then your gap is too tight for that boost level. If it purrs to redline then your golden. Understand there may be some trial n error as you work...
Something is wrong with the wiring or the sensor. Pull the sensor and wrap it in a cloth or shop towel sprayed with brake cleaner, the reading should go pretty rich. If so the sensor is fine, next do the open air recalibration. Check the wiring of the wb itself. If none of this is your problem...
Nah there are plenty of us here. Join our local forum @ Htown-Dsm.com , I have the same screen name there. You're just going to miss a meet on the 25th, but we have stuff planned for next month also. Hope you join and can make it out.
Had the same issue after doing the bse. My leak came from the crank shaft seal from same kit. I took the timing cover off and started the car, reved it and you would see oil spraying from under the crank bolt.
I believe that's your clutch slipping at 5k. I would make sure the master is set correctly, check the slave for air pockets, and check that the pedal isn't appling pressure to the system. Reason it mainly happens at high is due to the increased tq from 14psi to 18psi.
You say the flywheel is...