http://turboboostleaktesters.com/eclipse-talon-2g-95-99-t25-stock-turbo/You ever figure it out? Sounds like the engine is seeing knock and when it does, it retards the timing advance a lot to keep things safe, which in turn makes it slower.

^ Link does vary timing at idle to help stabilize it. But nothing as drastic as 20 degree changes.Do a boost leak test and see if your block off plate is leaking. If it is bad enough it can cause a vacuum leak. I had to rtv the side of the block off plate that has no gasket to seal against in...

Check voltage at the battery when you have the radio turned up high on a song with a lot of bass. I'm sure its dipping pretty low. You probably need a capacitor and higher output alternator.Its probably knock if I had to guess. I'm not sure about the stock ecu(never had a stock one LOL), but...

Drain the oil and let us know what you see in the oil. Sounds like rod knock. Its good you caught it soon. Don't start the engine again until you drain the oil and pull the pan to verify whether it is a rod bearing or not.Looks like you have more problems than that though. Oil leaks, exhaust...

I doubt the pcv valve is causing your problem. But it should only allow flow one direction, it should shut completely and not let air through the other direction.My bet is valve stem seals. Slight smoking at idle and smoke during decel are tell tale signs.Does it smoke during WOT?

If you want a good 2G GSX that isn't going to require a lot of maintenance right off the bat then I suggest you save more money. $3000 will get you a car that needs new parts here and there. 4-5,000 will get you a NICE car that will go a while without needing anything more than gas and regular...

You do not listen for leaks when doing a boost leak test. This will only allow you to find huge leaks. Use soapy water in a spray bottle like the other 5 million people in this thread said. I say to do another boost leak test, but do it the right way. It's the only way you can be sure that your...

Ok that's what I thought you were saying, just wanted to verify. That's probably what happened. I'm about to go external as soon as my gasket set from FFWD gets here, so it will no longer be an issue.

Would mind elaborating on what you mean by the "cover walking down"? I assume you mean the compressor housing spinning/sliding one way or the other.How would I know? do the scribe a mark on the housing and chra?

Yeah I'm in the same boat. Stock 6 bolt bottom end except for Mahle pistons. The previous owner had a machine shop in his back yard and mounted some Mahle 4032 pistons on stock 6 bolt rods.

It only knocked on 1 pull when it spiked 31psi. On the others it did not, so i'm going to relieve some of the preload on the wastegate flapper and see if that fixes the spike. I think the tune is solid. But I'm going to have Drew Jones take a look at it after I swap to the Tial MVS and get it...

I just went for a ride after modifying the wg actuator rod. I think I preloaded it too much, cause now i'm spiking to 31psi.. need to mess with my bcs settings too... but the good news is it is now spooling like it is supposed to. 28psi at 4700. I think i'm gonna throw my Tial MVS on there...

Its definitely the turbo for the job. With the right cams and springs, and intake manifold it should be easy to make over 400whp on pump.I think(I pray) i'm close to 400whp right now, but the powerband is so peaky its useless. I'm about to go for a drive and see if the additional wastegate...

Wanna trade? hahaNah my bottom end would shit out its guts with a 6466 @30PSI

I'll try that next. I had the part that screws onto the wg actuator rod bottomed out(as tight as it could be, for wg preload) and upon looking at it, I don't think there was very much preload. I took it off and cut off a couple millimeters of threads and screwed it back in. I had to pull with a...