I didn't mean it was only for looks, the point i was trying to make was that for that kind of power an afc is crap. You have made a better choice in turbo's and that will get you to your goal. If you want a 1g throttle body, then just port the inlet on your 2g manifold and call it a day.

A 1g intake manifold on a 2g head is going to KILL your flow, lots of work for loss of power. Also your not gonna be making that much power (350whp) on a 16g on pump gas or much more on any type of fuel for that matter, and afc's were cool back in 1999 just like body kits and underglow was cool.

If you want to stick with skinny baby tires like 225's then you can run that high of an offset (+45-48). Im running 255/40/17's on my 17X8 wheels +38 and like a 1.5" drop with my ground controls. If you want a 17X8 with anything higher than a 40 offset your really restricted to a herra stretch...

I've ran both 1g head and 2g heads on a stock 6 bolt bottom end with a 60trim turbo at around 23 psi on piss water california 91 octane. The biggest difference in my experience came from the added torque from the 2g head/manifold combo. I did have to bump down my timing in the midrange and...

You have a GM maf and you set the maf scaling to a 2g maf? Also your maf scaling looks way off from you rom. Where did you get these numbers from? Can you log fuel trims? Or at least your o2 feed back and post up what it says? I don't know why you have all 3 knock multipliers set to 10, that is...

You would need to cut/reweld the openings on the radiator. That's way too much time/money spent on something you could just buy. There are company's out there that make aluminum radiators for 420a's. I wouldn't waste my time trying to fabricate a solution unless you have the time and resources.

There is a nipple on the compressor cover of the turbo. That is where you boost source is. Don't worry about anything else, this is THE spot you need to use. What everyone else is talking about is a new boost source you will need once you put that 16g on.

doesn't matter if your bov is recirculated or not, it has a vac/boost line going to it. That is the line you tap into. But if you have a t25 then you have a boost source nipple on the compressor of the turbo so there is no need to tap into anywhere. Take the intake of your turbo and you'll see...

It will work, you just need to scale it correctly.

Knockgoon: I had the same problem last time i was at the track, its something to do with the SD tables not being tuned correctly but i haven't really messed with it too much not until i solve my misfire problem. Oh and ill add your a better driver than i am, best time i cut was a 14.1@110

Def agree with Mork, My RPM VE starts low and goes towards 100% then tappers back down. I think you should start off with a fresh tune. Use the provided settings and that should get your car running better than it is now.

BR6ES and BPR6ES are two different plugs, The P means potruding.Back on topic:ngk BPR7ES's 30psi .025 gap

Putting the pin back in is the easiest method in my book, has never let me down.

I see so much wrong with this, first of all your home depot bolts WILL break or backout because they were not designed to stand up to the heat of the turbo/manifold. There is a good reason why the stock turbo bolts cost $9 a pop. $30 dollars for an oil line that is of questionable quality that...

downpipe will not fit.