Depends on your goals. What do you want out of the car? Think cost, power, amount of work you want to do (and/or pay for)...The more boost you decide to push, the more you'll have to upgrade. Keeping it stock or close to stock will keep your costs down.

Second that. With parts, and transmissions, getting harder to come by I would have it welded and tapped.

Thanks for the explanation. My last professional working with a/c systems was back in the 90s at the changeover, so I appreciate any info I can get to add to/remind me of things.

Thanks, Marty. Kinda confirms what I remember about non-compatability between the two refrigerants (particularly the oils).

Well... welcome (hang on, let me scroll back up...) IntellectCorner. First, you and we would be MUCH better served if you cut this post up and put each question in a different post. Not only will you save us brain space in trying to hold on to all of that information, but your responses will be...

What about seal compatibility between r12, r134a, and propane? Not that running propane is a wise choice imo. A propane leak around a hot engine... I like the explosions to happen inside the combustion chamber.I also thought that the r134a systems were designed to run at a higher pressure than...

I have used freon with dye and leak stop before in a pinch to get me through, but I don't recommend relying on it. Certainly put freon leaded with dye into the sysyem so you can find the leak though.@Sirius1995 is right with pulling the system into a vacuum. If the system has been leaking...

Posting a video that clearly "shows" us the knock would be helpful. Just going off what you've said, I wouldn't start or drive it at all. If the engine is damaged internally, it's a time bomb. Better to swap in a known good 420A for now.

A parasitic draw will draw the battery down to 0 given enough time. Depends on how long the car is sitting. Charge the battery up and then clamp the + cable to the battery. Next, put a test light between the neg post and the neg post clamp. If the test light illuminates, you have a draw.Don't...

Yes. No reason to pull the engine to remove the head or timing covers.

If you are using a larger fuel pump you'll need to perform the fuel pump rewire mod. Plenty of posts on it in here. You can look at this one.https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-fuel-pump-rewire.437012/

Exterior looks okay, but pics of the interior and engine bay would go a long way. Also, focus on common rust areas. Is the car stock or modified? Finally, best to post this in the classifieds.

From your first post it seems like you just bought the car and experienced the issue on day 1. It is possible that this problem came with the car.If the bigger turbo was added and is pushing more than about 10 lbs of boost, then almost everything to do with engine and fuel management systems...

Best forum to ask is club3g.com; this site is 1g and 2g DSMs.

BTW - that mansplain wasn't necessarily for you, but for anyone who looks at this thread who may not be familiar with forced induction and for whom the intake piping is a mystery. There are many configurations for our cars, so pics and youtube videos don't always help. Just wanted to jot down...