If the 13b rew from the fd's were available for an even semi decent price they are easy to fit in the rx8 with a few aftermarket swap parts and they are excellent engines, the na's from the 2nd gen's were really stout too but only around 140ish horsepower. I had an 87 sport model a long time ago...

There are quite a few having a lot of luck with the 6 speed trans with the k series swap making under 500 hp with them the 09 and up is supposed to be a stronger than the early versions from what i've read.

They were funish, but not a lot of power and insanely expensive to rebuild when something goes wrong. A stock rebuild can be 5-7k pretty easily if the housings and plates are damaged and than you still have a bone stock motor. They are also super easy to damage when you start adding forced...

Yeah, there are some clean ones out there for little to nothing and its a really good handling platform so i'm surprised more people aren't going this route. https://drifthq.com/products/pmc-motorsport-gearbox-adapter-mitsubishi-4g63-mazda-rx-8-f0rx8-4g . One of of those page has a flywheel as...

I've found a few pictures online of this swap, but not much info, wondering if any of the people that built them are on here by chance, or anyone on here. Seems like it would be more popular since they make a bellhousing adapter and flywheel to attach the 4g63 to the 5 and 6 speed rx8...

It's super easy to get these pan's sealed, i think like the guy before me said, having the surface as clean and free of oil is the most important part. I wipe them down with 99 percent isopropyl until the paper towel comes out clean, apply a bead, put the pan on torque it down, let it sit over...

Anyone built a good working rwd oil pan themselves? I've been away from these things for nearly 10 years and honestly don't have a clue who makes what or who has done what. I've been looking around a bit and saw the outrageously expensive magnus pan, but not really and pics of what other's have...

The bolt that connects the lower strut mounting fork to the control arm will usually be rusted if you are on the original arm. There is a sleeve inside that hole that is attached to the arm with rubber. That sleeve is sometimes so rusted to the bolt that no amount of heat or beating will get it...

You don't need anything but a small sledge hammer. No lubricant, no separators, no heat or anything. It is a taper fit joint, a good wack on the knuckle where the stud fits thru and it will come right out. You are just looking for a good shock to free the stud from the taper. Watch this video...

You don't have to take the belt off, just turn the engine so that the trigger plate isn't between the slot in the sensor, unbolt the sensor and remove. Then install the new one. Make sure that the wires aren't able to rub on the belt, and use a little loctite on the bolts.As for getting the...

I would search for v2 or v2.5 if you can find a setup it should be pretty cheap. It doesn't have all the options of v3, but it can still give you a real good tune. You should put a wtb ad in the classifieds and see what happens.

That looks 100 percent like a knock off chinese built bov. I would buy a 1g bov, mod it and buy an adapter http://www.jmfabrications.com/store/products/2G%7B47%7DEVO-Blow-Off-Valve-Adapter.html

I would do a leak down test to find out where it is leaking compression. It will likely be broken ring lands, or a bad valve. If it is just a valve than i would just have the head rebuilt and reinstall with new timing parts. With only 130k miles i wouldn't even worry about a rebuild at this...

you would probably be pretty close to running out of fuel at 15 psi with stock 450's.

You will need to mount the wideband in a different location than the stock because the stock is looking for a different signal, 0-1volt vs 0-5volt of the wideband. Some wideband controllers have a narroband output, but they usually don't work exactly right for the stock ecu. You will need to...