its not a bleeder type. Its a ball and spring type.the bleed hole is just there to help keep boost spikes in control. Without it the boost will spike until the pressure inside the controller can bleed off and allow the ball to re seat once the boost you want is reached.A bleeder type...
without knowing your car, your conditions etc, I can only tell you what works for my car but I am thinking roughly around 13.2 down to about 12.8 or so.at 30% throttle tho, it will easily and quickly go to more boost, and so it will need to richen up. even with my fairly large turbo by 3900...
if you are trying to save fuel, I suggest you go even leaner in your low load maps. Off idle, and low to mid range rpm low throttle areas, I use up to 15.5:1. You can even go a tad leaner, but it gets fussy around there, so you can experiment, but for my altitude and fuel, this seems to work...
toad5tool, change your oil! That whole time your two cylinders that were not firing were still squirting fuel in! This washes your cylinder walls down and thins out/contaminates your engine oil.If on the off chance that it was two injectors crapping out at the exact same time, please...
those numbers are not lift, but as said earlier, duration. As in how long the valve is open in degrees of rotation.The lift is how far open the valve is, ie, how far off the seat that the valve is. Measured in mm or parts of an inch.There is much more to a cam than duration, and even...
Micheal, I personally don't think a real 14b(no other wheels, no other housings etc)with no nitrous can flow that much air, enough for 350 wheel hp. its just too small.Dynojets seem to be pretty optimistic compared to Mustang dynos or real world hp calculations. IE, with my 3076r and an...
wow, its been a while since I did any 14b stuff. You guys are really taking it to the next level cubed!!I will put in my 2 cents, because it was fun while I did it and I think I was the fastest 14b in BC, possibly in Canada on a full weight pump gas car.Car was bone stock from valve...
thats really wierd.For one, the stock pump on most Japanese cars of this vintage almost never fail. I have only changed 1 or 2(I only remember 1) fuel pump on a Japanese car in my career as a mechanic. Thats about 8 years, I know, not for ever, but its still a significant time. I change...
also is your base timing set correctly?if its off, you will have these issues.Do a full decarbonization of your engine, not just spraying it in while running, but let a fair amount of the chemical sit on your pistons and intake valves overnite, change the oil and then run it up. It will...
I would guess not as there would be more noise/carnage if one of them was actually broken.Recheck all your timing marks and make sure that the rear shaft is "in phase" because the marks can be lined up and still the rear shaft can be out 1 full turn.Check the VFAQ for more detailed...
its not leaking out there, its bypassing vacuum out the vacuum port.And as for the "working fine" bit, its not working fine, its just working better than the faulty aftermarket one. And it has the same problem that every other big pump stock regulator 1g car has. The pressure regulator is...
subscribing.and adding that mine has suffered a loss of vacuum as well.I was/have been chasing a driveability issue as well as a random knocksum issue for a while now.I put a secondary vacuum hose on it, plugged the one that goes to the vacuum nipple on the regulator and applied...