I still make manifolds (redjack). Feel free to contact on facebook if you'd like to chat about it.

A ball joint separator is the best to prevent damage.OR pickle fork and hammer as mentioned above, but it can gouge metal and damage rubber boots.

In the past we were buying them from SLS and flange place down in florida. Now we are having one single CNC shop do all of our flanges to make things a bit more streamline. Our ports are a hair larger than the stock cast ports. Reason for such is core shift. Each head varies a small amount...

I'd just like to point out we've made a few revisions since the above manifold was made. Welding has improved drastically. We are now using an industrial tumbler to get an even finish on the weld elbows (doesn't matter too much after a heat cycle but it does give it a better initial...

Hey guys, it's Joe from Red Jack. I personally weld all of the manifolds that we produce so I can answer any questions you may have. Please forgive me if I missed anything.The manifolds are as close to equal length as possible without cutting any "cheats". There is really only so much you...

Tri mix will work just fine for this. 98/2 would work fine as well. I would suggest practicing on scrap tubing and doing some fillet welds on tubing to steel plate.I wouldn't back purge it. Be sure to bolt your V-band to the exhaust housing and clamp it down while welding it--they will...

Thanks for the kinds words guys. This is just showing what goes into making one. Unfortunately I'm not a freelancer or vendor.Frank, I think you may be onto something w/the v-band ;)When putting the turbo in a relatively stock location it's very difficult to play too much with the WG...

Here are some pictures of a divided t3 manifold in the making. Figure a lot of the holset guys out there would appreciate this one. Mega quick spool :D3d CNC'd head flangeCollector tacked together before bottom cut is madeWelding up the collectorFirst side of...

The manifold is tacked while on the jig then welded once bolted on the aluminum plate. It's unnecessary to weld it while in the the jig, it's actually wrong. Doing it like that will put a ton of pressure on the welds and strain on the runners. Anyone that has welded stainless with some good...

Yep, I don't weld anything without a gas lense! I use 2% thoraited (red) for just about everything. Even though I'm on a large transformer machine red still works better than pure (green) for my aluminum too!Thanks for all the kind words guys.

Thanks for the comments guys!Ecliptical, are you using the miller diversion 165? That should do you just fine for steel. The only thing is that it just doesn't have a whole lot of juice to do any thick aluminum. What are the details on your torch setup? Post some pictures of your welds and...

I just use a gas lense with a big cup. And for tight to reach spots, just crank up the gas a little bit and pull your tungsten out.

WG is right under the 1/2 runners. Reason for making the #1 runner a bit straighter allows me to fit a big old WG under if need be ;)

I knew someone would point that out! It's actually because the head flange has a chamfer in it on the edge and then tapers up towards the top stud hole. It's designed to look like that. However it is 100% flat :)The runners are actually very close to one another in length. If you do...

It could, but it wont :). I've made a couple years ago and they've held up fine without bracing. Those had gt42's hanging off them too. Using the schedule 10 piping helps greatly, it's .109" thick.