I don’t see why deleting emissions related components and the associated vacuum lines would make the car less reliable. I would think it would be more reliable since I’m removing failure points. I’m not doing this to improve the appearance under the hood, only to remove unnecessary things that...
OK, that stuff is normally retained with a vacuum delete anyways, right? I haven’t done a vacuum delete on a DSM but I did on my 3000gt VR4 which has most of the same parts (FPR, BCS, etc).
Hi guys,I searched, but I couldn't find much help for my scenario. I'm wanting to clean up some under the hood in my newly acquired 100% original '95 talon tsi. I want to delete the EGR, smog equipment, and do a full vacuum reduction EXCEPT for the stock boost control system. Can I just...
If the radio turns on but has no output it's either a shorted/defective speaker (the internal amp in the radio is protecting itself) or the internal amp is defective, or both. You can check the speakers with a multimeter. If they show ~4 ohms they should work, if any show 0 ohms they are shorted...
I just picked up one of these (Pep Boys via ebay): https://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-Knock-Sensor-KS28/163664498341?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649Brand new, NTK sensor, made in Japan. Standard Motor Products box.FYI, I searched the earlier posted list online, and there...
After a duh moment (I realized how off my multimeter was due to some bad test probes), I found out my solenoids were in spec and fine. Too bad I already tore up one of the filters on a shift solenoid while trying to pry it off. Oh well, I got a new set online for ~ $60.I dug into my valve...
Thanks, I got the valve body out last night and checked the resistance again. I'm still getting the same readings at the plug but the solenoids do click when I give them 12v. I'll check the resistance again at the solenoids themselves to narrow down my problem.
So after wiring up my Forced Four Smart 100.1 shift box and doing a test run, I still only have P, N, R, and 3rd gear. I used my multimeter to check the resistance of the pressure control solenoid valve and the A/B shift solenoids at the plug on the transmission. I show ~28 ohms for the shift...
Thanks for the update. I just finished installing mine and grabbed the VSS on the TCU. I soldered all the connections...maybe that will slightly help with the signal quality. I saw plenty of bad t-tap connections from my days as a car audio installer.
Did this ever get resolved? From looking at the wiring diagrams, the VSS wire on the TCU (pin #40 Yellow/White) is the correct (and only) wire for a VSS in a 1G.