Well... I posted the car up about a week ago for 12k, thinking that I may have to sit on it for awhile, but I was fine with that. I was thinking that I could get it back to the track and actually turn it up and run some really good numbers while waiting on a buyer. Long story short, I won't be...

Thanks man, I might do another one... but it will just be more race car than street car. I drive this thing way more than I should lol

Been awhile since I've updated, so I'll post a quick catch up post. Ended up swapping to a 2g head/Evo 3 intake manifold, and added some L19's in place of the old standard arp's. After getting all that done, I was finally able to get the nitrous stall up right with some help. So.... Now it's...

Been in your same position before. I sold mine...for the 1st time @ 4 years ago, after having it for 17yrs. I ended up buying it back a year later bc the guy was moving out of State. Kept it another year and ended up selling it again. A year and a half later... I bought it back once again and...

No, I haven't tried that yet. My afr's seem to be safe while spraying the 50 shot (wet kit). I played with timing and fuel a little earlier. I had a spot @ 2k rpm where it would go lean for a split second while revving the car up slowly (without nitrous), which was about where my car would stop...

Basically sea level here. I had a Bradco convertor and a built auto trans to put in the car, but I ended up selling the car before I got the convertor back from Brad (@ 6 months after promised to have it back to me). So for now, I'm just trying to do the best I can using nitrous on the stock...

I know for sure to use the dynatek 2 step. It holds our other car perfect and the rpm doesn't have a big swing up/down like it did when we were using Ecmlink 2 step.

Ok, so I finally got the Dynatek installed (thanks Marty for the help lol). Just wondering if it's better to use the timing retard of the dynatek, or wire up the brake switch for als. Which one seems to work better, and is there a benefit of one over the other?

I have a 3in bumper exit on my car. The only time it really gets annoying to me is going through the drive through, or if I just so happen to pull up beside a cop at a stop light. It's still loud, and it can probably get obnoxious to some people, but I like it.

I played around with raising/lowering timing, and lean/rich afr's but nothing seemed to change more than a 100 rpm or so either way. I had the timing up to 2k rpm in the mid/high 20's I believe, and pulled a few degrees of timing @ 2200 rpm when I had the nitrous activate. And now that I'm...

Yea, I got my brother's car doing pretty good. He is only on a 20g though. It will come up on the convertor in @ 6-7 seconds and stay on the 2 step with the Dynatek. We are probably going to install a small shot on his after I get mine figured out. I'm pretty sure his will be alot easier to do...

2.0 eagle/JE 8.5:1 T4 Bw s363 Stock intake manifold, I have a Magnus on the shelf I may reinstall Crower 272's Stock convertor Car is set right now on 30psi on 93 octane. After I get this situation figured out I am going to be switching to e85 and more boost.I haven't made a pass with the auto...

Totally new to the auto game and I'm trying to get my car to stall up on the convertor in a timely matter so I can make a few track passes. It will only stall up to @ 2200 rpm and 2-3 psi without nitrous. I have a 50hp wet shot installed at the moment. Im going to set it to come on @ 2k rpm and...

When I did the 3g shifter in my 1g, it would just beep if 4th gear was disabled. Try holding the upshift button on the shift box, or the shifter while in 3rd gear. It should unlock 4th if that is your problem. If that doesn't work the problem is something else. I've installed three 3g shifters...