just do AN lines

thank you for that info! maybe its just the intermediate shaft that is different

Can someone tell me how to tell the difference? Is it total length of the arms or what exactly how do I know what set of front axles I have?I traded all my manual stuff for a guy with for all his auto stuffHe got kragen remains for the passengers side arm and the outer half of the drivers...

i know the rear axles are the same for 2g AWD Auto and manual, but what about the fronts?looking at JNZ OEM online catalog i see the left axle there is four options (auto/manual with and without ABS) where the right only has two options (with and without ABS)im swaping from manual to auto...

So I understand why one of the ears has to be tapped. But why is the bracket threaded for the same hole? Wouldn't you want the bracket to not be threaded.That way when you tighten down on the bolt it is snug agains the ear?

Flow benches are more beneficial on n/a cars as it actually simulates the correct air flow. It's not as accurate on a forced induction engineThat being said, a flow bench will tell you if the individual ports are equally ported the same amount

Thank youDo you know how many mm clearance there is on the stock rim towards the inside. Strut or control arm? I will measure when I get time but for now it's easier to askI am looking at some rims and right now an online calculator says they will be 17mm closer on the inside vs stock rims...

What is the stock off set on 2g 16x6 rims?

I have ran the a7 blade hx35 in the bep .55 and it was an awesome street turbo @28psi on a stock 7bolt. I don't believe you'll gain a whole lot going to the t3 hot side.This time around I have a 60mm hx40 in the T3 shooting for 35psi on the built engineHow much boost are you running now?

Basically the same 10.5 Wiseco R&R aluminum rods. Not sure what rod pin size. It's a 6 bolt I'm just going to have Boostin performance build it for meWhat's the pros for 22mm? I know that's what 2g and evo use. Is it noticeably stronger?

same build ill be doing what Compression did you go with?

i need a stock bore in good condition where i can just hot tank and glaze hone it and be ready to go, i have a set of wiseco stock bore pistons that i would like to use with it so i needs to be stock bore bought one thats already 20 over i was told it was never bored.

What machine shops do you guys use? I need to get my block hot tanked and honed and some wiesco Pistons and eagle rods balanced alog with my head resurfaced/valve job and the head studs drilled larger to 1/2" for the 6bolt head studs

I just picked up my thrid dsm lol, well I bought it knowing it had rod knock. So I got it home today and dropped the pan and the number two cylinder has no rid bearing left lol so I'm looking for a bottom end for cheap anyone have one laying around? Or maybe 6 Bolt pistons and rods?

basically as the title states what is the Transmission and transfer case oil Drain/fill plug specs?and where can i order one, i looked on ExtremePSI but found only the Oil pan plug. the nearest Mitsubishi dealer is almost 2 hours away... :(