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I think it looks like a good start and honestly i was planning on repainting my car in an evo mr phoenix red but you have started me looking at some red urban camo patterns. I might reconsider mine I would be go with some patterns the digital does kind of look like random sprays but it is a good...

I have my plug wires switched even with dsmlink it will start with them not switched around but it runs like crap I don't think it would be the coolant sensor because on my recent clutch adventure i had pulled off my plug without realizing and it still started. There is a small wire I believe...

I have my plug wires switched even with dsmlink it will start with them not switched around but it runs like crap I don't think it would be the coolant sensor because on my recent clutch adventure i had pulled off my plug without realizing and it still started. There is a small wire I believe...

I have my plug wires switched even with dsmlink it will start with them not switched around but it runs like crap I don't think it would be the coolant sensor because on my recent clutch adventure i had pulled off my plug without realizing and it still started. There is a small wire I believe...

I know this might sound stupid but make sure you have the right plug plugged into the coilpack when i first went to start my 6 bolt swap i still had somewhat of spark and I had my plugs switched for the CAS. I had to take my plug off the coilpack to get it to fully reach the correct plug. Just...

If it only comes in at a certain speed it is a tire or balance related issue if it was suspension based the speed wouldn't matter get your wheels balanced somewhere that has a roadforce balance. Easiest way to tell without spending money would be to rotate the tires and see if it goes away.

Your heater core is more in the middle of the car most of the time when they leak it would be inside of the car check the lines going into it but if its by your exhaust I would be checking the line that goes from the thermostat housing to the oil filter housing or maybe possibly a freeze plug...

Just figured I would update installed the new clutch and flywheel as well as the symborski shifter bushing set and it shift perfectly probably one of the smoothest I've felt. I went with an act 2600 sprung 6 puck and a streetlite flywheel full act setup when I was taking the old pressure plate...

Ya'll have missed out there used to be a huge meet every Saturday at checkers or where nopi used to be right acrossed the street on abercorn there's a few dsms on Hilton head my buddy has a gvr4 and there's a few guys from pooler that used to come out mostly 1g's they still get on here from time...

Definitely pay close attention to the course if your doing at Hutchinson there is a lot of " slick" spots in that area but definitely lower your tire pressures try a few runs at low 30's and possibly run a bit more negative camber in the rear

Make sure you have the coilpack plugged into the right plug as well things can get a little confusing with 3 plugs that are the same my coilpack plug wouldn't reach all the way with my 6 bolt swap for some reason so I assumed it was the plug for the crank sensor swapped plugs and fired right up

The only grinding I get is when I try to put it in reverse even when I had to wrestle it into gear the two times I did there wasn't much grinding even when it went in. When I trying to go into first there isn't any grinding at all it just feels difficult to go in and starts to act like it's...

I bought an OEM master and slave just bled the system for an hour or so had help the slave rod is working properly after awhile I finally got it to somewhat go into reverse but still pretty much the same thing I suppose I'll be taking the trans off again. I'll keep updating thanks for the help...

I have the clutch rod almost all the way threaded out should I bring it back in or just focus on bleeding the system more