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For sale 1g Blue 1990 Eclipse GSX

Sold
Rebuilt, Maintained and Upgraded "Stock +" Early 1st year 1G DSM, 6-Bolt, 14b Turbo, 4-bolt axles
$7,500.00
Status
This item has been sold and is no longer available!
Status
2 members are watching this classified ad

Details

Car is located in Fort Collins, Colorado. I moved to the mountains, and a turbo car on muddy dirt roads makes no sense. Second owner, January 1990 manufacture, 5-speed manual, Federal emissions, shell has 200K miles. For all appearances the car is completely stock but rebuilt and maintained with many invisible upgrades. Very low miles (5K) since rebuilds. Clean title, clean pass on Colorado emissions. This build provides a solid, well maintained and classic foundation for you to either enjoy stock+, or start modding. The block is ready for power. Not greasy, not hacked up. Looks nice, pulls hard, shifts smoothly, sounds amazing, corners like its on rails, a pure thrill to drive.

Runs very well (see YouTube video:)

Body has a few minor dings and some oxidation. Flaking, faded paint, and rust spots on hood from a bra. Headlight covers replaced. Minor issues in plastic trim pieces and rubber door gaskets, some wear and tear in the interior etc, typical of a 32 year old car but I think still better than average and shows well.

Engine Block Upgrades and Maintenance:
Stock custom ground knife-edged and balanced crankshaft
Eagle Chromoly H-beam rods
JE forged pistons (build #391154)
ARP head and main studs (Eagle rods also come with ARP)
Balance shafts and belt deleted with new oil and water pump
Block fully machined with new main/rod bearings, all new engine gaskets
Nippon Racing multi-layer-steel (MLS) head gasket
Gates blue timing belt with Mitsubishi tensioner
2G exhaust manifold (ring and lip removed, ported outlet)
2G O2 sensor housing (stock down pipe, cat and exhaust)
Head fully cleaned, decked, valves reconditioned and vacuum tested
New stock-grind turbo camshafts, valve seals, gaskets
(Stock 450cc blue-top injectors, ECU, and fuel system except fuel pump, emissions compliant)

Body Upgrades and Maintenance:
Original fully rebuilt Mitsubishi TD05H/14b turbocharger
(new bearings, turbine and compressor, optimal performance with stock exhaust)
Walbro 255L high flow fuel pump upgrade (with stock wiring)
Original rebuilt manual transmission (stock parts, with Mitsubishi 75W85 MTF oil)
Manual steering rack for easy steering (from a base model 1.8L)
AC and PS pumps, belts, hoses deleted
Prothane red high performance motor mounts
Kevlar clutch with machined flywheel for smooth engagement and long lifespan
New brakes, weld-repaired clutch pedal assembly with bronze bushing
Good condition tires, recent balance and alignment, NO CANCER in body


Asking $7500 but will consider serious offers. These are getting pretty hard to find, especially in this condition.
Private message me (wparks) on DSMtuners with your email address if seriously interested, and I will send a more detailed write-up.
Thank for looking! -Warren

Latest questions

looks a lot like the one in my driveway. :thumb:
They are certainly not making any more of these!
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wparks
wparks
BTW- what does this part refer to? (I hate acronyms . . .) " blt, compression/ld "
Mech Addict
Mech Addict
Boost leak test, Compression test and leak-down test.
It makes more sense in a thread when someone has already identified the full word. But the list of items to check is fairly long. Base timing is another one. Overall the car runs well, but I’ve noticed the dipstick is unseated after spirited driving.
wparks
wparks
Ah Yes- all very important tests. Be sure to check your PCV valve it that gets gummy you could be getting boost into the valve cover. Unless you already have probably just replace as they are so cheap. Compression test and base timing are very simple and most important after that- do you have a compression test gauge and a timing light? Don't bother with the idle speed measurement- for base timing the tachometer is good enough. The leakdown test- that is in-cylinder to determine valve health - do I have that right? If so I typically just do the dry compression / wet compression test to somewhat differentiate what may be rings vs. valves. I did not bother with a boost leak test, my piping is tight, there are no holes in my intercooler, and my throttle body shaft is reasonably tight and I don't have the money to rebuild the throttle body if it had an issue anyway.
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wparks
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