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2G SRS light

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Iceman8079

Proven Member
48
1
Mar 1, 2023
Walton, Indiana
Hello once again thank u all for the help with gst. Got all fluids changed alternator and new 98 fuel. Was driving it and srs light came on all Guages started to act crazy and died on me. Took a jump fired right up drove 3 Miles same issue Help Help please

Does anyone have a ecm for sale 98 gst. My srs light comes on and car loses power and shuts down after driving 3 miles was told it needs new ecm.
 
How about you calm down. This is not the place for classified adds.
Then maybe become a proven member b4 you start making demands.

You should fill out a vehicle profile tho > http://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/

Make sure there are pics
 
I doubt it's a safety restraint system error because that wouldn't cause issues with your whole gauge cluster and engine operation. Sounds to me like a loose battery terminal or perhaps a bad ground. Possibly could have left something loose doing the alternator.
 
Does anyone have a ecm for sale 98 gst. My srs light comes on and car loses power and shuts down after driving 3 miles was told it needs new ecm.
How about you calm down. This is not the place for classified adds.
Then maybe become a proven member b4 you start making demands.

You should fill out a vehicle profile tho > http://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/

Make sure there are pics
Sorry if you think I'm demanding anything was just asking a question. If u can't help then don't reply. Thank u

I doubt it's a safety restraint system error because that wouldn't cause issues with your whole gauge cluster and engine operation. Sounds to me like a loose battery terminal or perhaps a bad ground. Possibly could have left something loose doing the alternator.
I was told it is my ecm. Because it takes a jump right after it shuts down.
 
What brand alternator? Was it a lifetime remanufactured parts store alternator?
 
This is a text book voltage issue. Connect a voltmeter to your car while your running it and see what it shows when it acts up, your cigarette lighter even could be used.

Also even though an alternator might check out ok amperage wise or even voltage wise on a bench or even on the car doesn't mean that it is consistently outputting the right voltage or amperage during driving.

If its a local parts store alternator consider it suspect no matter how it checks out sitting there.
 
This is a text book voltage issue. Connect a voltmeter to your car while your running it and see what it shows when it acts up, your cigarette lighter even could be used.

Also even though an alternator might check out ok amperage wise or even voltage wise on a bench or even on the car doesn't mean that it is consistently outputting the right voltage or amperage during driving.

If its a local parts store alternator consider it suspect no matter how it checks out sitting there.

Thanks. It's the original alternator. It drives great till the SRS light comes on then it wants to slow down and die. One person told me that means it's going into limp mode.

Sorry to keep asking questions. My 98 GST SRS light kicks on and it shuts car off and I try and start car again and acts like dead battery.
It will take a jump and start but then SRS light kicks on its same thing. New battery, factory alternator. Pulled it had it tested 3 times was told nothing wrong with it. Help please.
 
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I would replace the alternator, other than a blown fuse or fuseable link, or a slipping crankshaft pulley (bad pulley) then its likely the alternator, next thing to do is to check the voltage when its acting up.
 
Bench testing and alternator does not add heat into the test.

You need to start the car and tell us the voltage at the battery when the car is running

It needs to be above 13v to indicate the alternator is working
Thanks. I have no power to windows or locks or radio since this started as well.

I would replace the alternator, other than a blown fuse or fuseable link, or a slipping crankshaft pulley (bad pulley) then its likely the alternator, next thing to do is to check the voltage when its acting up.
Since all of this happened now my windows radio and locks and horn don't work as well.
 
There is no such thing as limp mode


You can test an alternator all you want, but you need to monitor voltage
Since all of this happened now my windows radio and locks and horn don't work as well.

Check the main fuse under the hood for the alternator.

It seems like you are pretty desperate, but not able to find a solution to the problem. For an immediate solution i reccomend taking your car to a mechanic
 
And test all fuses/fuseable links with an Ohm meter, don't just visually look at them. That can be deceiving.
I also say to check ALL grounds and make sure that they are good and are tight.
 
No the ECU doesn't seem a part of the problem. There is an SRS computer but it's just angry that you keep loosing battery voltage when the car is running triggering a low voltage fault.

What is your battery voltage at rest with the key off, again with the key on, while starting, and when it's idling?

Did you measure battery voltage at the alternator's B+ terminal?

Have you downloaded the 2G Electrical manuals? Look at the power distribution diagrams and start checking what circuits have power and which don't.

You're a long way from pointing the finger at anything.
 
No the ECU doesn't seem a part of the problem. There is an SRS computer but it's just angry that you keep loosing battery voltage when the car is running triggering a low voltage fault.

What is your battery voltage at rest with the key off, again with the key on, while starting, and when it's idling?

Did you measure battery voltage at the alternator's B+ terminal?

Have you downloaded the 2G Electrical manuals? Look at the power distribution diagrams and start checking what circuits have power and which don't.

You're a long way from pointing the finger at anything.
Volts r 13 all the time now with new alternator and battery.
 
Volts r 13 all the time now with new alternator and battery.
So is it fixed? I'm guessing not.

13v all the time would imply that it isn't charging or that the alternator fuse is blown.

Does your battery light come on when you first turn the ignition on?
 
So is it fixed? I'm guessing not.

13v all the time would imply that it isn't charging or that the alternator fuse is blown.

Does your battery light come on when you first turn the ignition on?
Not for sure yet I've been working over alot at work. Put new alternator on haven't recheck volts yet no battery light before we switched or after. I will kero u posted thanks for all the info
 
The Engine Control Module (ECM) does not have anything to do with power windows or power locks, in basic terms the Ecm controls fuel injector pulsing based on engine sensor readings.

There is no quick fix, or throw a part at your problem. Based on everything you have described so far, the car is having an electrical problem and the battery is being discharged by running the car, because the alternator isnt supplying the correct voltage
 
The Engine Control Module (ECM) does not have anything to do with power windows or power locks, in basic terms the Ecm controls fuel injector pulsing based on engine sensor readings.

There is no quick fix, or throw a part at your problem. Based on everything you have described so far, the car is having an electrical problem and the battery is being discharged by running the car, because the alternator isnt supplying the correct voltage
Replaced alternator and found out the main fuse is blowed. But have a question trying to replace a 20 Amp fuse and it's is blowing every time I put it in. Tried to check with fuse check light and it sparks as well. Any thoughts on this.
 
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