2G Build Plan

[Concepts]

I wish to own a 2G Eclipse in the future, and I have done some research on these forums, and I'm wondering if this is a good build plan for around high 300s to low 400s in horsepower. Am I going overboard? Am I not doing enough? Thanks in advance.

- STM Intake
- S90 Throttle Body

- 16G Turbo
- STM FMIC
- GReddy FV2 BOV
- GrimmSpeed Manual Boost Controller

- Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump
- FIC 650cc Fuel Injectors
- STM Fuel Pressure Regulator

- Competition Clutch Stage 3
- Competition Clutch Flywheel

- Mishimoto X-Line Radiator

- STM Cat-Back Exhaust
- STM High Flow Cat
- STM O2 Housing
- STM Downpipe
- FP Cast Race Manifold (STM Porting)

- AEM X-Series Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor

- AEM EMS Series 2

 

[AWD-Tony]

You think that will hit 400?

Yes for any of those options. Think HX has different turbine flanges.

 

[Concepts]

Yes for any of those options. Think HX has different turbine flanges.

Got it. I'm probably going to get one of those turbos that's been provided then. I'll make sure to document my progress here on the forums as soon as I get a 2G and the parts. Wish me luck in the future, and hope to start making posts about it in the coming years.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Thus far all of the suggestions and feedback has dealt with the engine. Remember that power has to get to the ground, and once you get above around 350 you start running the risk of transmission issues. The automatics do well in handling the power but the manuals are known to crack stuff at around 400 if you're hard on them. Driven sensibly the'll last, but if you launch it you may find tranny bits behind you. And the upgrades that used to be done are hard or impossible to find (evo 3 gearsets).

Not trying to scare you off of your build. Just keep in mind that a hard 400 launch might leave you standing still.

Anyone have corrections, counter arguments or advice regarding stuff south of the flywheel?

 

[Concepts]

Thus far all of the suggestions and feedback has dealt with the engine. Remember that power has to get to the ground, and once you get above around 350 you start running the risk of transmission issues. The automatics do well in handling the power but the manuals are known to crack stuff at around 400 if you're hard on them. Driven sensibly the'll last, but if you launch it you may find tranny bits behind you. And the upgrades that used to be done are hard or impossible to find (evo 3 gearsets).

Not trying to scare you off of your build. Just keep in mind that a hard 400 launch might leave you standing still.

Anyone have corrections, counter arguments or advice regarding stuff south of the flywheel?

If I go further with my plan of 400hp, I definitely intend on upgrading the weak drivetrain parts.

- Is a fuel computer worth it at all?
- If yes, is it worth it with a 255lph pump and 650cc injectors?

- Can you run a fuel computer with a manual fuel pressure regulator? Is it necessary?

- Does ECMLink have a form of a fuel computer built in? (Probably not because it's not stated in the features list I don't think

- Should I get an aftermarket fuel rail?

- What circumstances should I get an aftermarket intake manifold or throttle?

- If I get a new intake, should I get one with a MAS delete or not? (Probably not but worth asking)

- Does a wideband o2 system remove the need for the o2 sensor?

- Is ECU tuning just as good as a Dyno tune?

Thanks and I'm really sorry if these questions have been asked hundreds of times before, but right now I don't have it in me to search for 30 minutes to find the answers to my questions. I checked the dsmfaq page and found nothing that helped me.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

- Is a fuel computer worth it at all?
- If yes, is it worth it with a 255lph pump and 650cc injectors?

- Can you run a fuel computer with a manual fuel pressure regulator? Is it necessary?

- Does ECMLink have a form of a fuel computer built in? (Probably not because it's not stated in the features list I don't think

- Should I get an aftermarket fuel rail?

- What circumstances should I get an aftermarket intake manifold or throttle?

- If I get a new intake, should I get one with a MAS delete or not? (Probably not but worth asking)

- Does a wideband o2 system remove the need for the o2 sensor?

- Is ECU tuning just as good as a Dyno tune?

Thanks and I'm really sorry if these questions have been asked hundreds of times before, but right now I don't have it in me to search for 30 minutes to find the answers to my questions. I checked the dsmfaq page and found nothing that helped me.

I think you’re getting confused on the “fuel computer” stuff. I believe what you’re thinking of is the SAFC which is a piggyback controller that worked by modifying the airflow signal from the maf sensor to “trick” the ecu into doing what you want it to do. Worked well back in the day and can still work well today if you know or learn how to use it but unless you have an og dsm guy in the area to help you out but no shops left messing with it and it still limits you. Going with something like ECMlink or an evo 8 ecu with ecuflash gives you more control and logging capabilities and plenty of shops out there working with it. AEM EMS v2 as you mentioned earlier is also a great system if you have a tuner that works with it but is also becoming obsolete and way overkill for your goals. Essentially those options mentioned above all control fuel, for example if you were using ECMlink there’s no need for something like an SAFC.

 

[pauleyman]

- Is a fuel computer worth it at all?
- If yes, is it worth it with a 255lph pump and 650cc injectors?

- Can you run a fuel computer with a manual fuel pressure regulator? Is it necessary?

- Does ECMLink have a form of a fuel computer built in? (Probably not because it's not stated in the features list I don't think

- Should I get an aftermarket fuel rail?

- What circumstances should I get an aftermarket intake manifold or throttle?

- If I get a new intake, should I get one with a MAS delete or not? (Probably not but worth asking)

- Does a wideband o2 system remove the need for the o2 sensor?

- Is ECU tuning just as good as a Dyno tune?

Thanks and I'm really sorry if these questions have been asked hundreds of times before, but right now I don't have it in me to search for 30 minutes to find the answers to my questions. I checked the dsmfaq page and found nothing that helped me.

I apologize if I'm blunt. Been doing this 30 years. You're asking some very basic questions considering what you want to do.
I have made this argument 100 times. Stop making a list of parts. Make a PLAN instead. THEN figure out what changes need to happen to accomplish that plan.
Read this.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-management-and-building-a-dsm.421705/&ved=2ahUKEwjusYvr7Jf6AhW2k2oFHY9iBEoQFnoECA0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2gYYQDnyHiz0CS8h1A-pbY

If you don't understand what a part does and why it does it then you probably shouldn't be including it in your plan yet.
Figure out which thing do and do not fit in the plan, not a parts list.
You have the benefit of decades of knowledge at your fingertips.
I would try and keep the majority of your goals objective. If you're not sure how to describe, explain etc ask.
If I had to guess you want a "fun" car per your description of "throws you back in the seat" well I had a stock dsm that did that pretty well from a dead stop. You want that from a roll also? Little bit harder and more expensive.

- Is a fuel computer worth it at all?
It is a requirement up above a certain point and should always be included with larger injectors or you can't control them.
- If yes, is it worth it with a 255lph pump and 650cc injectors?
Larger fuel pump is simu to keep up with demand. By itself it does not add performance.

- Can you run a fuel computer with a manual fuel pressure regulator? Is it necessary?
Totally different things. Fuel computer controls injectors, timing etc. Pressure regulator well...controls pressure. Aftermarket units also have larger orifices that resolve the problem of larger fuel pumps overrunning the small orifices in a stock regulator.

- Does ECMLink have a form of a fuel computer built in? (Probably not because it's not stated in the features list I don't think
Ecmlink IS a fuel computer

- Should I get an aftermarket fuel rail?
No. Stock I fine for flow for quite awhile. Over 500.

- What circumstances should I get an aftermarket intake manifold or throttle?
Entirely depends on the use of the car and airflow. Not at the airflow you're asking about.

- If I get a new intake, should I get one with a MAS delete or not? (Probably not but worth asking)
No.

- Does a wideband o2 system remove the need for the o2 sensor?
No. It does not.

- Is ECU tuning just as good as a Dyno tune?
That's not what that means. Dyno tuning means tuning the ecu while on a dyno.

Thanks and I'm really sorry if these questions have been asked hundreds of times before, but right now I don't have it in me to search for 30 minutes to find the answers to my questions. I checked the dsmfaq page and found nothing that helped me.

Again blunt....admitting you "don't have it in you" to search is not a good way to get help. 30 years worth of blood sweat tears and cash are contained in these pages. Those that have gone before you and blazed a trail so you could follow. There is no easy way. You will either have to learn this by research and reading or have very deep pockets to take it to somebody each and every time you need something or have a problem

 

[Concepts]

I apologize if I'm blunt. Been doing this 30 years. You're asking some very basic questions considering what you want to do.
I have made this argument 100 times. Stop making a list of parts. Make a PLAN instead. THEN figure out what changes need to happen to accomplish that plan.
Read this.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-management-and-building-a-dsm.421705/&ved=2ahUKEwjusYvr7Jf6AhW2k2oFHY9iBEoQFnoECA0QAQ&usg=AOvVaw2gYYQDnyHiz0CS8h1A-pbY

If you don't understand what a part does and why it does it then you probably shouldn't be including it in your plan yet.
Figure out which thing do and do not fit in the plan, not a parts list.
You have the benefit of decades of knowledge at your fingertips.
I would try and keep the majority of your goals objective. If you're not sure how to describe, explain etc ask.
If I had to guess you want a "fun" car per your description of "throws you back in the seat" well I had a stock dsm that did that pretty well from a dead stop. You want that from a roll also? Little bit harder and more expensive.

You're answering my build plan, which is an older post that I've already had conversations with people about and they've helped me out. This "multiple questions" post was something I made that was moved to a comment on here, which is something I should have done to begin with because it is more fitted here anyways.

Again blunt....admitting you "don't have it in you" to search is not a good way to get help. 30 years worth of blood sweat tears and cash are contained in these pages. Those that have gone before you and blazed a trail so you could follow. There is no easy way. You will either have to learn this by research and reading or have very deep pockets to take it to somebody each and every time you need something or have a problem

You're right. 30 years are contained in these pages. But at the time, I was just home from something and was tired, and was thinking about some questions I had about the 2G that weren't on the FAQ website. I didn't know what I should put in the search bar so I decided to make a post instead, because that would have given me easy and fast results (laziness). Someone else answered my question about the fuel computer, and that was the main thing I was wondering about. I apologize

 

[pauleyman]

Once you do get a car you will be way ahead if you've done a lot of reading here. The resource pages can tell you a lot. Additionally you can research things that may help you a purchase decision. 1g vs 2g etc. Model year differences etc.

 

[We're on Boost]

If I go further with my plan of 400hp, I definitely intend on upgrading the weak drivetrain parts.

Upgrading the manual transmission is not just a matter of paying your money to get the work done. Not anymore.
One way to get a look at the lay-of-the-land for manual transmission rebuilds and upgrades is to look at the TMZ (Tim Zimmer) page that shows the 6 "stages" of transmission he used to offer. He still does stages 1, 2, and 6. The other 3 stages in-between are no longer available.
Just read through or at least skim through this whole page. Open up all 6 stages. You'll see that stages 2, 3, and 5 are "No Longer Available". But he still is keeping the whole list of stuff that each stage had so people can see what they were, which is cool.
He has prices there. Up to a point you need a core transmission to start from that is not totally destroyed, so that might add to the cost if you have to look around for another trans that is merely old, not destroyed.
The "stages" that are no longer available, that has just happened in about the last 3 years. BTW Tim is still super busy building trannies for these cars. It's just getting harder with certain parts becoming no longer available, and long wait times for Tim and for parts.

AWD DSM

www.tmzperformance.com

 

[Concepts]

Upgrading the manual transmission is not just a matter of paying your money to get the work done. Not anymore.
One way to get a look at the lay-of-the-land for manual transmission rebuilds and upgrades is to look at the TMZ (Tim Zimmer) page that shows the 6 "stages" of transmission he used to offer. He still does stages 1, 2, and 6. The other 3 stages in-between are no longer available.
Just read through or at least skim through this whole page. Open up all 6 stages. You'll see that stages 2, 3, and 5 are "No Longer Available". But he still is keeping the whole list of stuff that each stage had so people can see what they were, which is cool.
He has prices there. Up to a point you need a core transmission to start from that is not totally destroyed, so that might add to the cost if you have to look around for another trans that is merely old, not destroyed.
The "stages" that are no longer available, that has just happened in about the last 3 years. BTW Tim is still super busy building trannies for these cars. It's just getting harder with certain parts becoming no longer available, and long wait times for Tim and for parts.

AWD DSM

www.tmzperformance.com

So this is THE guy to get a custom trans for the Eclipse from? Thanks for the source

EDIT - I should probably get rear diff and transfer case rebuilds if I actually go for the 400 crank goal right

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

So this is THE guy to get a custom trans for the Eclipse from? Thanks for the source

EDIT - I should probably get rear diff and transfer case rebuilds if I actually go for the 400 crank goal right

It depends, many of us have done that on stock untouched stuff but keep in mind parts may not be available for the transmission build you want, let alone for a full rebuild at all.

 

[steve]

Lets be honest, we all have dreams. For you to make this one a reality you are going to need as much money as a new car of like performance is going to cost.

Paul talks about having a plan, but that's the second step. The first is creating and funding a budget, then you have make a plan, followed by acquiring parts.

I should also mention that you should budget for two cars cause you need a daily driver while you build this and to drive the 90% of the time once it's built.

 

[We're on Boost]

So this is THE guy to get a custom trans for the Eclipse from? Thanks for the source

EDIT - I should probably get rear diff and transfer case rebuilds if I actually go for the 400 crank goal right

Mainly I just wanted to reinforce the idea other people have already stated, that keeping power lower is better for not getting into too much trouble with the transmission, and transmission trouble has become the most difficult part I think, with these cars. It's hard to put a number on it but making 400 awhp "safely" (haha) on pump gas is a challenge anyway unless you are talking about a bigger turbo than the ones you are talking about, and then you don't get much boost until maybe 4,000 or 4,500 rpm which is pretty late compared to the smaller turbos like anything from a 20g to a Forced Performance "Green". So maybe ~350 awhp is a better target number. Keep in mind when you are looking at turbo web sites like Force Performance, that when they give a horse power potential number for a turbo, they are not talking about pump gas. They are talking about race gas or E85, plus lots of mods to the engine. So knock about 100 to 150 hp off of their claims.
BTW I have a heck of a time keeping up with how Force Performance organizes their web pages these days. But currently, if you want to see what we used to call "DSM Bolt-On Turbos" you pick "Classic 4G Style" at the top of the page, and then "Turbos", and that gives you a page that is titled "DSM Turbochargers".

TMZ is good, yes, although there are a couple other good ones too, like TRE.

As far as starting right out with rebuilds of rear diff and T-case and transmission, it's a hard call. It's hard to be that committed to something until you've played around with it for a while and have kind of crept up gradually and naturally on what you want to end up with. If the car you get has those things in pretty good condition you might be able to run them as is for quite a while without blowing them up. Or not! You just don't know. Then, once it is broken, it is a "broken core" and it might not have enough reusable stuff in it to get you through a rebuild without finding another core that is unbroken or less broken.

 

[CKOPOCT]

To give some perspective - I am currently building a 97 GS-T Spyder. I have put about $10K into it (not including buying the car). That includes a high performance engine (built by JAM), hx-35, bep housing, 3" turbo back exhaust, fmic, dsm link with sd, 850 injectors, wiring kit (rebuilding wiring and doing a tuck), fuel pump and rewire, gauges, coil overs, and a meth injection kit. There is more I'll still need to buy/do... and I haven't taken care of the transmission. It also doesn't include body work, carpet, missing hardware, seals, convertible top, suspension stuff, brakes, and other things I've done to it. All of this was purchased pre-Covid, so before the inflation spike and when more parts were available. Many of the parts were bought used from the classifieds here.

A budget is absolutely necessary. I have done all of the work myself, so thousands saved in shop and labor fees. If I'd had to pay a mechanic and body shop to do this my cost would easily be $20K at this point.

 

[We're on Boost]

I have put about $10K into it (not including buying the car). That includes a high performance engine (built by JAM), hx-35, bep housing, 3" turbo back exhaust, fmic, dsm link with sd, 850 injectors, wiring kit (rebuilding wiring and doing a tuck), fuel pump and rewire, gauges, coil overs, and a meth injection kit.

If I'd had to pay a mechanic and body shop to do this my cost would easily be $20K at this point.

Yeah, and really I don't even know how you did all that stuff for $10,000 if you had someone build the engine for you!

 

[Concepts]

Mainly I just wanted to reinforce the idea other people have already stated, that keeping power lower is better for not getting into too much trouble with the transmission, and transmission trouble has become the most difficult part I think, with these cars. It's hard to put a number on it but making 400 awhp "safely" (haha) on pump gas is a challenge anyway unless you are talking about a bigger turbo than the ones you are talking about, and then you don't get much boost until maybe 4,000 or 4,500 rpm which is pretty late compared to the smaller turbos like anything from a 20g to a Forced Performance "Green". So maybe ~350 awhp is a better target number. Keep in mind when you are looking at turbo web sites like Force Performance, that when they give a horse power potential number for a turbo, they are not talking about pump gas. They are talking about race gas or E85, plus lots of mods to the engine. So knock about 100 to 150 hp off of their claims.
BTW I have a heck of a time keeping up with how Force Performance organizes their web pages these days. But currently, if you want to see what we used to call "DSM Bolt-On Turbos" you pick "Classic 4G Style" at the top of the page, and then "Turbos", and that gives you a page that is titled "DSM Turbochargers".

TMZ is good, yes, although there are a couple other good ones too, like TRE.

As far as starting right out with rebuilds of rear diff and T-case and transmission, it's a hard call. It's hard to be that committed to something until you've played around with it for a while and have kind of crept up gradually and naturally on what you want to end up with. If the car you get has those things in pretty good condition you might be able to run them as is for quite a while without blowing them up. Or not! You just don't know. Then, once it is broken, it is a "broken core" and it might not have enough reusable stuff in it to get you through a rebuild without finding another core that is unbroken or less broken.

Thanks for the information. The budget is definitely something I need to consider, and I'm probably going to do my build one part at a time, starting with the basic stuff and evolving into stuff like a bigger turbo. Of course, I'll make sure to be safe with the way I install parts to ensure that I'm not putting useless things on that can only do harm.

400WHP is something that's becoming less and less likely for a daily judging by what people are saying, so I probably will shoot for something lower, just so I don't have to spend nearly as much money, and I'll still have a lot of fun with the car.

I'll look at Forced Performance and the turbos there, but I think I'm going to go with an Evo III 16G or a big 16G.
EDIT - Never mind, probably going to go with the 68HTA

 

[We're on Boost]

I think the 68HTA V3 would be excellent and pretty much perfect for what you want to do.
Did you notice on FP's web page for DSM Turbos that they show the 68HTA twice? They still sell the V2, that's why. The one that has no "V" number by it is the V2 which you can tell by the turbine wheel exducer dimension of 54mm. Some people thought the V2 spooled too slow (for its size), and that is supposed to be solved with the V3. The V3 is shown as the "DSM 6851S aka 68HTA V3" and it is only a few bucks more than the V2.

 

[Concepts]

Hey everyone again, I've done a lot more work and research into my build plan, and here is what I've came up with.

My current goal is to cut cost where I can, so if there are recommendations you can give me for that, please let me know.

I intend on running 18-25psi on pump gas as a DD

GSX

- 68HTA V3
- HKS SSQ BOV
- RTM Intercooler with full piping kit and flange for the BOV
- Electronic boost controller
- MAF/T for venting
- Tial MVS External Wastegate (should I drop this and just use the internal wastegate on the 68HTA?)
- STM O2 Housing with the Tial on it
- STM Downpipe
- STM High flow cat
- Magnaflow Muffler and custom catback exhaust (local shop or should just get a premade cat back? trying to recreate the sound of a Thermal)
- Walbro 255
- 950cc injectors
- ACT MB 2100 sprung 6-puck clutch
- Full shifter bushing kit (is this necessary?)
- ECMLink
- Kelford 272
- Oil Pressure gauge, boost gauge (boost controller), AFR gauge
- Mishimoto radiator (necessary?)
- Mishimoto slim fans
- Feal Coilovers (cheaper options with similar quality?)
- Complete suspension bushing kit (necessary?)

Are there more things that I should consider? Oil cooler? Transmission cooler? Appreciate the help for someone new like me <3

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Cutting costs is not something I recommend. If you want something unreliable and to replace half the chinabay stuff you buy in a couple of years that’s your call.

My wife would be upset if she realized how much money I’ve put into my car to achieve what I have. DSM’s require owners who will do their own wrenching, research and buy quality parts. Also your buying a used car; probably should set $1,500 aside for maintence that has been neglected by the last 3 owners before you put more power to it. If not you’ll end up being the my dsm’s always broken guy and it’s unreliable.

Also you don’t need a maf translator with link to run vented. Afr gauges are junk and belong in rice. Get a wideband o2 instead. You need valve springs for aftermarket cams. Probably get revised lifters.

Nice cars aren’t built overnight. May wanna think about doing this in steps.

-Daniel

 

[Concepts]

Cutting costs is not something I recommend. If you want something unreliable and to replace half the chinabay stuff you buy in a couple of years that’s your call.

My wife would be upset if she realized how much money I’ve put into my car to achieve what I have. DSM’s require owners who will do their own wrenching, research and buy quality parts. Also your buying a used car; probably should set $1,500 aside for maintence that has been neglected by the last 3 owners before you put more power to it. If not you’ll end up being the my dsm’s always broken guy and it’s unreliable.

Also you don’t need a maf translator with link to run vented. Afr gauges are junk and belong in rice. Get a wideband o2 instead. You need valve springs for aftermarket cams. Probably get revised lifters.

Nice cars aren’t built overnight. May wanna think about doing this in steps.

-Daniel

Haha this dream of owning a really powerful Eclipse is straying further and further away every day, I might have to consider a luxury trumpet machine or hell, save about two Eclipse builds and buy myself a run-down Skyline

This is the AF/R gauge I'm looking at, I thought it was wideband:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'll look into the springs and lifters, thanks for the info on that, was a bit confused on if I need new ones.

I will definitely build my car in steps, but still, the total price just keeps growing, either I'm going to have to tame the beast and get something more basic, or I'm going to have to find something different. Time will tell.

Appreciate the information

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Yes that is a wideband. I prefer innovate brand but that’s just my personal preference.

Not trying to discourage you by any means just being realistic.

My car is the thing I put the most money into minus my house. Difference being I just sold my house and made more money than I paid for it in profit from selling it. Don’t think that will happen with the dsm. Cars are not good investments if you plan to modify them. They will fetch more in stock form.

-Daniel

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Internal gate on the 68hta would be perfectly fine for what you’re looking to do. Also I see you mention the Maf translator, it had it’s place back in the day but completely unnecessary by todays standard. With Ecmlink you can utilize speed density and not require a maf, however an evo maf would be plenty if you chose to use a maf or the GM maf can be used if desired with ecmlink with just their plug and play cable (would have to find the cable used) eliminating the need for a maf translator. The maf translator was built to use a GM maf before ecmlink had the capability or before many had ecmlink for that matter, however if you just want to be able to vent the blow off valve speed density would be the way to go.

 

[We're on Boost]

You don't need an Electronic boost controller if you use the one that is already built into ECMlink. For the ECMlink boost control, it's best to use the Ingersoll-Rand solenoid that ECMtuning recommends for it.

ECMTuning, Inc.

www.ecmtuning.com

Yup the AEM 30-0300 wideband you showed is ok. It includes the Bosch sensor, gauge, controller, and wiring.

Most of the things at the end of your list you could just skip for now and maybe add them later if you are not already snowed under with unexpected expenses. I mean the Kelford cams (just leave everything in the head stock), and the Mishi radiator, fans (stock is pretty good), coilovers, suspension bushings, could all be delayed forever if necessary.

The Tial external wastegates work really well, I really like them. But they are expensive. You could use the internal wastegate setup that is offered with the 68HTA V3 and it should be ok in combination with the Ingersoll-Rand boost control solenoid I mentioned before. Check out post #273 here, about the solenoid:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsi-galant-vr4-1837-of-2000.482807/page-11#post-153636201
That is on page 11. Further up page 11 in post #253 you can see the dyno runs (over 400 hp on E85) that Brett did before he quit using the HTA68 V2, went to a slightly bigger turbo and an external wastegate.

The internal gate would save you about $350 vs the external gate. Either way, the STM O2 housings and downpipe should be real nice, and either way you would preferably use that Ingersoll Rand solenoid.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I also see the FP manifold mentioned, while it’s a nice piece, a ported 2g manifold or ported Evo 3 manifold would be the more optimal selection with the 68hta.

Edit: I see you’ve changed it from 68hta to 16g, with that being said the manifold options mentioned would be an even better selection, and dropping the maf translator is a good call. Also I’d still opt for the 950cc injectors you had previously mentioned if not bigger over the 650s. 650s take e85 off the table and bigger injectors will give you room to grow later, on pump gas you wouldn’t be likely to see much more than 300 on the 16g, might be hard pressed to see more than 300 if 93 octane isn’t an option in your area. Also with the 16g I wouldn’t waste money on the STM o2 housing, port the stock one for a fraction of the cost as the gains with the STM o2 housing would be minimal if anything at all.

 

[Concepts]

You don't need an Electronic boost controller if you use the one that is already built into ECMlink. For the ECMlink boost control, it's best to use the Ingersoll-Rand solenoid that ECMtuning recommends for it.

ECMTuning, Inc.

www.ecmtuning.com

Yup the AEM 30-0300 wideband you showed is ok. It includes the Bosch sensor, gauge, controller, and wiring.

Most of the things at the end of your list you could just skip for now and maybe add them later if you are not already snowed under with unexpected expenses. I mean the Kelford cams (just leave everything in the head stock), and the Mishi radiator, fans (stock is pretty good), coilovers, suspension bushings, could all be delayed forever if necessary.

The Tial external wastegates work really well, I really like them. But they are expensive. You could use the internal wastegate setup that is offered with the 68HTA V3 and it should be ok in combination with the Ingersoll-Rand boost control solenoid I mentioned before. Check out post #273 here, about the solenoid:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsi-galant-vr4-1837-of-2000.482807/page-11#post-153636201
That is on page 11. Further up page 11 in post #253 you can see the dyno runs (over 400 hp on E85) that Brett did before he quit using the HTA68 V2, went to a slightly bigger turbo and an external wastegate.

The internal gate would save you about $350 vs the external gate. Either way, the STM O2 housings and downpipe should be real nice, and either way you would preferably use that Ingersoll Rand solenoid.

I didn't know the ECMLink was capable of doing all of that, sounds like I should learn more about it's features

I'm going to probably go with internal gating and just get a normal STM O2 Housing.

Since I would be controlling boost with ECMLink, should I get a boost gauge? Should I have easy access to adjusting boost in the cabin?

I also see the FP manifold mentioned, while it’s a nice piece, a ported 2g manifold or ported Evo 3 manifold would be the more optimal selection with the 68hta.

Edit: I see you’ve changed it from 68hta to 16g, with that being said the manifold options mentioned would be an even better selection, and dropping the maf translator is a good call. Also I’d still opt for the 950cc injectors you had previously mentioned if not bigger over the 650s. 650s take e85 off the table and bigger injectors will give you room to grow later, on pump gas you wouldn’t be likely to see much more than 300 on the 16g, might be hard pressed to see more than 300 if 93 octane isn’t an option in your area. Also with the 16g I wouldn’t waste money on the STM o2 housing, port the stock one for a fraction of the cost as the gains with the STM o2 housing would be minimal if anything at all.

You're referring to the first post I made on here. This was my original build plan and the one that you replied to before is the updated and almost complete one.

You are, however, making mention that a ported manifold would be something to consider with the turbo, do you think I should commit to getting a manifold to match the other pieces of my exhaust?

Thank you for all of the info, greatly appreciated.