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ECMlink 1G Issues with idle and sputtering trying to make a pull

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Have you tried the old, "reboot the computer" method? :)
 
On your laptop, - "Windows", "Shut Down".
Let it sit for 5 minutes and power it back on and boot up. Try the ECMLink connection then see if it will connect.
 
No, but you could unplug the OBD port connection and re-connect it to be sure it is able to talk to the ECU. I have had some issues like this too and I did a reboot and tried all of the COM ports, finally, it was able to communicate. I now do try to use the same port every time, but I have 3 DSMs with Link and sometimes I forget. I need a 3rd computer so each car has its own.
 
Update ive checked all my fuses, had the ecu out and looked inside couldnt see anything bad, hooked up to a buddies 2g and it connected so I know its not a laptop or software issue. Going to test the pins at the obd 1 port tomorrow morning and if everything looks good there then sending cable and ecu to ecm link to look things over since I cant find anyone with an obd 1 cable near by.
 
Ok, so after fixing the boost leaks still have a small one but doesn't bleed off that bad at all. The car runs and drives good but I'm noticing I'm hitting fuel cut now but that was after this log I uploaded I believe.

I have a Hallman RX boost controller and I have it turned down to around 13 but still shows I'm getting to 15 on my manual boost gauge. I need to turn it down more since I havent done the pump rewire yet and I get that.

Why now all of a sudden am I being affected.

If you could please take a look at the log and give me some pointers. I did go in and change MAF comp to the template and tried to smooth it out some, but haven't gotten a chance to see how the car reacts. Wideband is in the mail on its way.

I think it looks like it leaning out under boost which I understand due to stock pump and wiring.
 

Attachments

  • log.2022.09.23-01.elg
    2 MB · Views: 16
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I have been messing with my isc getting it to 33 at idle after warm up like its suppose to, i did add a catch can for the side port of vc to intake tube as well as adding a checkvalve thats been mentioned in pcv thread since the factory pcv's dont work correctly.
 
Without a WB, can't do any fuel related tuning for WOT. On the logs you posted, injectors are pretty much maxed out reaching over 100% injduty. The stock 1g timing table is very aggressive. I recommend loading the stock 2g maxocttiming table. Also, change the highlighted area to something in 11. This won't change the tune, but it will help when you're tuning wot. 9 AFR from the factory is rich.

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  • 2gmaxocttiming.eda
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You're on stock maf, injectors and fuel pump. All 3 have to be upgraded. You're probably overrunning all 3. We used to see this problem all the time back in the day when most DSMs were mostly stock. Not so much nowadays.
My suggestion:
1) Speed density or 2g MAF
2) Walbro 450
3) Maybe some FIC 1100s
 
Without a WB, can't do any fuel related tuning for WOT. On the logs you posted, injectors are pretty much maxed out reaching over 100% injduty. The stock 1g timing table is very aggressive. I recommend loading the stock 2g maxocttiming table. Also, change the highlighted area to something in 11. This won't change the tune, but it will help when you're tuning wot. 9 AFR from the factory is rich.

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Yea no i figured as much I appreciate it though, yea I knew it was running rich for sure could definitely smell it LOL. I will definitely make these adjustments to try and help me out more.
 
You're on stock maf, injectors and fuel pump. All 3 have to be upgraded. You're probably overrunning all 3. We used to see this problem all the time back in the day when most DSMs were mostly stock. Not so much nowadays.
My suggestion:
1) Speed density or 2g MAF
2) Walbro 450
3) Maybe some FIC 1100s

Yea I figured this was my issue LOL I turned the boost down to like 10 and it doesn't hit fuel cut. Ive been waiting to upgrade anything just yet, just trying to get things evened out with stock and getting the car to optimal performance the way it is so I know there aren't any other underlying issues. I have other injectors and a pump already.

Love the feedback guys, helps me out a lot in helping or reassuring me what my issues are and what to do to make it better.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Without a WB, can't do any fuel related tuning for WOT. On the logs you posted, injectors are pretty much maxed out reaching over 100% injduty. The stock 1g timing table is very aggressive. I recommend loading the stock 2g maxocttiming table. Also, change the highlighted area to something in 11. This won't change the tune, but it will help when you're tuning wot. 9 AFR from the factory is rich.

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So i just made it easy and did 11.3 or 4 whatever that cell had
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and i pasted the timingmaxoct table from your file as well will find out in the morning how she reacts and ill log some to as well to see what it helped with.
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So i just made it easy and did 11.3 or 4 whatever that cell had
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and i pasted the timingmaxoct table from your file as well will find out in the morning how she reacts and ill log some to as well to see what it helped with.
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Yup. Blend the other blue shaded boxes. You can highlight just past those cells, right click and use "interpolate" function.
 
Yup. Blend the other blue shaded boxes. You can highlight just past those cells, right click and use "interpolate" function.
Just so im correct your talking about the ones to the left of the ones i changed to around 11's correct? Took the car for a spin before seeing this, seemed some what better for the most part. ill make this change tonight and log tomorrow morning. Log from this morning. if i dont WOT it doesnt hit the fuel cut as bad but still does if im too aggressive, timing did look better wasnt as crazy as it was before. Been messing with idle sw and the biss screw to get things right at idle
 

Attachments

  • log.2022.09.28-01.elg
    2.3 MB · Views: 14
I cleaned it up for you. The 1g maf supposedly has can read up to 2000hz. In your WOT pulls, you can see the MAF is all over the place. Like Vegas said, your limit now is the MAF, injectors and pump.

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  • MaxOct.eda
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  • YourWOTpullMafMAXd.elg
    16.3 KB · Views: 14
I cleaned it up for you. The 1g maf supposedly has can read up to 2000hz. In your WOT pulls, you can see the MAF is all over the place. Like Vegas said, your limit now is the MAF, injectors and pump.

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Thank you isir yea basically limited now but my whole goal this year was to get the car going and the bugs worked out of it. Awesome thanks man i appreciate that!!! yea its fun to look them on WOT pulls haha my thing i dont understand i keep backing my boost controller down by halves now to see what it will let me get away with LOL ill make these changes tonight and log in the morning.
 
So I finally got my innovate mtx afr gauge and looking at dsm link wiki the power shows to go to pin 102 or 107 and 101 or 106 for ground. How should I connect these wires to those pins? Also I plan to run narrowband sim in ecm link so I dont have to worry about the brown or yellow correct? http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/mtxinstall. Picture of the wires/ plug ins from the guage

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Pretty sure the yellow should go to pin 4 or your computer won't read it and be very confused. That is the O2 sensor input. Then assign that pin in ECMLink for the WB.
 
Pretty sure the yellow should go to pin 4 or your computer won't read it and be very confused. That is the O2 sensor input. Then assign that pin in ECMLink for the WB.

So maybe I was reading it wrong then. So the yellow wire is basically so you can log wb even if im using it as a narrowband?

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Yes, ECMLink will allow you to "simulate" the narrowband while using the wideband. Some people don't like to simulate. I do on all 3 of my DSM's since they are 1g's and only ran 1 O2 sensor from the get go. ECMLink has a limited amount of changeable inputs for 1g's (or less than a 2g would have). I provided a picture of how my 92 TSI is set up in Link. :thumb:

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Awesome which brings me to my other question how are you tieing in the power,ground and yellow wire to the proper ports?
 
Use a switched source for power (fuse box) for the gauges power/lights, and tap into the yellow wire to feed both the gauge and the ECU with both having the SAME GROUND POINT. That way the ECU and the gauge should read the same. Tip from my tuner :thumb:
 
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