T bags
Proven Member
- 212
- 142
- Apr 9, 2022
-
Newark,
New_Jersey
Saw that thread and very good info. Hope yours turns out betterSaw this thread a week ago so I’m praying it’s just the tob.
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Saw that thread and very good info. Hope yours turns out betterSaw this thread a week ago so I’m praying it’s just the tob.
Nope. The dreaded “C” wordSaw that thread and very good info. Hope yours turns out better
I will ask these questions based on my experiences.No clue tbh. Assembly error by me or not getting it align honed possibly. I'm going to have the machine shop assembly the rotating assembly this time.
Yes I can move the slave back in and not using an extended slave. I am using 2g master rod though. I have read most of the threads about the hard clutch but I don’t k oe tbh. They have harder pp’s so I’m not completely sold on it being the 2600 fault.Have you checked your clutch hydraulics to make sure they're not locked? Are you running an extended slave?
I noticed you run an ACT 2600. I've just never been a fan. I fought mine and fought mine, pulled clutch pedal out of the car. I gave up.
I honestly believe hard clutches are a contributing factor.
Yes I did zero out the dial indicator and the needle is moving clockwise.My auto car had .0025" end play and boy was that a good feeling when I checked it.
Tony, did you zero that dial indictor because I read it as .00735" according to the picture (which is out of tolerance by such a small amount)
Yes. I just set it then zeroed it so the middle dial can be ignoredI only asked because it looks like the dial has went one full revolution PLUS the .00245"
I was just curious is all. You probably "zeroed" it after it was pre-loaded so you got a good reading.
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I don't see it neither. The crank is probably not reusable since #3 journal sidewall is damaged but this block probably is. You should line hone/bore though, probably you can eliminate that uneven wear on the main bearings. Anyways should inspect everything.I don’t see any contact marks on the cap side and it’s hard to tell on the crank. I’ll have to remove the crank to inspect it and the upper half of the block. Is this a procedure when assembling 4g blocks?
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Yeah. I’m taking it apart this week. The only issue is my machine shop isn’t sure if he can hone it. I have to call him tomorrow to find out. It has to do with cutting the caps down and having the correct size to hone.I don't see it neither. The crank is probably not reusable since #3 journal sidewall is damaged but this block probably is. You should line hone/bore though, probably you can eliminate that uneven wear on the main bearings. Anyways should inspect everything.
From what he asked, it sounds like the suitcase handle and/or the one bolt per side is the issue since he asked if the caps had two bolts per side. Either way I’ll know tomorrow whether he can do it or notYou probably know this, but there’s a Jafro video from inside the machine shop that’s doing the line hone for his Kiggly girdle install. Maybe that would help them compare their equipment, or help you find another place possibly.
20/50 vr1. I forget the rod clearance but the mains were .002 - .0017. By the looks of the mains, I’m guessing not having it align honed and using kiggly girdle caused this. But that’s just my guess. Also didn’t check end play when I originally assembled it. Oil pressure was spot on until one of the rear balance shaft bearing came loose. Then went BSE and oil pressure after that was high above idle to 3k. Fully warmed up, idle was 18-20psi, 58psi at 3k, and mid 80psi by 8k.So you are saying that you crankwalked a six bolt 4g63? I am interested in what oil you were using and what bearing clearances you were running? what was your oil pressure at idle vs at speed? there is no point in repairing it until you find out what caused it to begin with. I'm not sure how far you would be willing to drive but there are machine shops in NE OH that can take care of that block for you.
I was going to switch to 10/40 after I use up the 20/50.That’s some thick oil indeed.
130k blew a hg and decided to build the bottom end. On this set up, roughly 3k miles. Original bearings all look mint when I took it apart. Very minimal wear.What was the mileage on this before you tore it down?
I will mic both halves when I pull it apart and also try different bearings this time around. Didn’t notice any imperfections when I installed these bearings. Installation error? Possibly as this was my first build and I did not pry the crank forward before torquing the mains along with checking end play.Have you mic'd the thickness of the thrust bearing halves? I'd be curious to compare each, both inner (nearest the crank) and outer (nearest the block and girdle) parts of the thrust surface, to see if there's a difference between the halves. Could indicate that they weren't set flush correctly or if it wore at an angle.
Ever since I got that package of ACL Race bearings that had tool marks.. a gouge, rather.. on the bearing surface and the mains were too wide to fit the crank, and yet they were packaged like that, I never tried them again.
I forget the rod clearance but the mains were .020 - .017.
Correct. My mistakeAre you talking inches here? Do you mean .002 to .0017 inches?
Jenkins motor parts. https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Automotive-Parts-Store/Jenkins-Motor-Parts-600911010048851/So my shop does not have a mandrel small enough for the mains. @motomattx lmk what the name of that shop when you get a chance. Guess they’re familiar w 4g’s?