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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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$hit:
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$hit
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Aw $hit
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I’m gonna need more work here. Looking for a E3 16G hot side.

And Cyl 1 looks to have leaky valve seals?
A55375B4-A0BC-42A8-A9F3-42CC29C26CAF.jpeg
 
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$hit:
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$hit
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Aw $hit
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I’m gonna need more work here. Looking for a E3 16G hot side.

And Cyl 1 looks to have leaky valve seals?
View attachment 659818


Not sure if you’re interested but I have the hot side off of an eGay 16G. You’ll need to port the hole for the wastegate flapper but other than that it’s great. Crack free.

I am straight dreading removing my turbo, for this exact reason. These turbos love snapping bolts off in the turbine housing and every bolt is so rusty on this car. I snapped a bolt holding the front bumper to the fender. I didn’t even know that was possible!

But yeah. Sucks to see, mate. But my god do those brand new heat shields look amazing.
 
Not sure if you’re interested but I have the hot side off of an eGay 16G. You’ll need to port the hole for the wastegate flapper but other than that it’s great. Crack free.

I am straight dreading removing my turbo, for this exact reason. These turbos love snapping bolts off in the turbine housing and every bolt is so rusty on this car. I snapped a bolt holding the front bumper to the fender. I didn’t even know that was possible!

But yeah. Sucks to see, mate. But my god do those brand new heat shields look amazing.
PM me some pictures - Could be a solution.
 
I’ll take this victory:

Tools of reconstruction
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Drill found a backside of the bolt. When it punched through into a void I was very please.
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after enlarging the hole to 1/4”, the threads started to fall out, and the taps cleaned up this mess nicely.
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Just need to weld in the plug, and this E3 manifold can go back into service.
 
I’d honestly just buy a China bay 16G at that price. You’d have the same housing but also the actuator and some spare parts. I’m sure someone would buy a chinabay 16G that was brand new with a 6cm housing instead of the 7cm one and get some money back.
 
Oh there is more carnage to behold:
View attachment 659901
No shaft play, but this little guy has been breaking it’s teeth chewing on something. Hmmm 🤔


Oof. I actually have a whole 14B that has a tiny amount of in and out play with a good turbine wheel. But honestly might be better off just to grab a rebuilt 16G off of Justin at this point.
 
Oof. I actually have a whole 14B that has a tiny amount of in and out play with a good turbine wheel. But honestly might be better off just to grab a rebuilt 16G off of Justin at this point.
I have a whole bolt on 14b option here. Thats a fall back option if another is not ready by the time this becomes the thing holding me up.

I’m gonna see what it takes to get parts or refurb replacement.

I did find some backup bolts in my hord, so thats one less expense.
 
Subscribing to see the head bolt repair
$hit:
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$hit
View attachment 659815
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Aw $hit
View attachment 659814

View attachment 659817
I’m gonna need more work here. Looking for a E3 16G hot side.

And Cyl 1 looks to have leaky valve seals?
View attachment 659818

Was that a time sert you ripped out of the head ? Can you briefly detail what you did to repair this ?
I am getting ready to swap a manifold/turbo and expect this to happen.
 
Subscribing to see the head bolt repair


Was that a time sert you ripped out of the head ? Can you briefly detail what you did to repair this ?
I am getting ready to swap a manifold/turbo and expect this to happen.
Yes it was - correction - no it was not. It was a EZ-LOK insert. I don't know exactly what I'm going to do about fixing it. I'm considering options (none of them are great)
 
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Next size up timesert? Would suck to have one different bolt, but what else can you do?

Could just get someone to glob some weld on it and mill it flat/drill and tap it.

If you were super attached to the head that is.
 
This will have to be removed:
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This hole is 12mm deep. Its supposed to be 20mm. I think I’ll tap a centering punch as close to center on the bolt as I can, and drill it out, same technique as I used with the exhaust manifold bolt.
 
Throttle Body - Rebuilt

It is time to swap in a rebuilt 1G throttle body. I have had a long standing issue with the shaft seals, waiting to be addressed and today is finally the day
View attachment 658529
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Amazed the old gasket came off nearly intact.

Rich Howell gave my e-bay 1G TB find a complete overhaul and refinish. Here are the comparison photos:
New mil-spec shaft seals, half-shaft mod powder coated gloss black and a killer silver/sparkle/clear combo for accents. Polished brass, and a 2G mod to better work with the EGR vacuum lines, which leave an additional port to support the bottom nipple on my greddy BOV.
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Super Bad ass job - did me proud people!

New Gaskets, a slight tweak to the water lines, and it’s right were it goes, torqued on to spec.
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Amazing attention to detail and good pics
 
Looking at the inserts on this head, I think these are EZ-LOK. EZ-LOK is kind of shallow for a head stud IMO.

Might go with a M10x1.25 BIG-Sert - the drill size is 31/64"
 
Downpipe nuts were so uncooperative, I had to unbolt the o2 housing to get the turbo off.
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This whole section as ugly as it is, flows well. I want to keep the ported D3 o2 casting, so off it comes.
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The problem is the nuts. One came off ok with lots of PB Blaster soaking and some encouragement with a breaker bar and socket, but the other one, said no, and no wasn’t going to work.
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I soaked the bolts and stud, smacked the ends of the stud with a center punch, heated the nut and housing with a propane torch, impact gun on/off, until the nut corners stripped off, then hammered the closed end of a sidewall grabbing wrench onto the nut, and then shocked the wrench with a hammer until the stud started to extract. Finally coming apart.
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I located some replacements at Home Depot, M12x1.25. Its a finer thread pitch than the taps I have on hand.

Also thinking some thick SS washers would be helpful.
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I am gonna have to do the same thing and I’m honestly dreading it because of this. I need to invent some kind of coating that’s as thin as anodizing but is 100% rust proof. Lol.


But yeah. Rust is a SOB man.
 
I just ordered up a bunch o random maintenance related parts, Big-Cert 10M x1.25 kit, exhaust gaskets, valve seals, J-pipe gasket, Steel-It SS spray paint, M12x1.25 tap and die., brake fluid reservoir cap diaphragm. ARP chromoly turbine manifold bolts and washers, spare 6-bolt lower timing belt cover - More powder coated parts and restoration from Rich Howell. I can't seem to get any daylight hours in the garage.
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I just ordered up a bunch o random maintenance related parts, Big-Cert 10M x1.25 kit, exhaust gaskets, valve seals, J-pipe gasket, Steel-It SS spray paint, M12x1.25 tap and die., brake fluid reservoir cap diaphragm. ARP chromoly turbine manifold bolts and washers, spare 6-bolt lower timing belt cover - More powder coated parts and restoration from Rich Howell. I can't seem to get any daylight hours in the garage.
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I have those same arps on my talon. That and the super high temp nuclear proof anti-seize made them a breeze in the past to remove.


Since then someone else has had the car so we’re about to find out how strong or good they are. It’s the ultimate test when I go to remove the turbo.
 
I have those same arps on my talon. That and the super high temp nuclear proof anti-seize made them a breeze in the past to remove.


Since then someone else has had the car so we’re about to find out how strong or good they are. It’s the ultimate test when I go to remove the turbo.
I'm hoping they will unbolt well for you. Let us know - that's likely to go the same for me in the future.

So, now I'm looking for a replacement M12x1.25 x 40mm heat treated stud, with 15mm thread - 5mm unthread - 20mm thread distribution. Where to get these?
 
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