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Spyder 97 GST Spyder P0300 and Jumpy Tachometer.

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ZubUchiha

Proven Member
82
7
Jul 30, 2021
Riverside, California
Hey y’all, I Just got a 97 gst spyder and it has a p0300 code. I changed the spark plugs and the check engine didn’t come on but halfway of driving it back home, check engine came back on and it started misfiring. When I start to accelerate it would feel as if the clutch was slipping, and the entire car would start to rumble and shake hard, but this would only happen sometimes. Another problem is that when I accelerate the rpms fluctuate up and down like it’s lagging as it’s going up, but when it’s in neutral, it goes up and down smoothly. The temperature gauge would also start to go up slowly past the halfway mark. Another question I have is when the car is idling in neutral and not moving, the rpm’s will drop below the normal range the car will vibrate as if it’s about to stall, any reason why this would be? My reader only shows this code and none other. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I Would ignore all these smaller problems for now. Does it still overheat? Is it misfiring?
Yes it is still misfiring.

Just for an update: I fixed the battery terminal on my car so it is not loose anymore. I also took out the spark plugs and saw that the gap was different for each spark plug, it was between 0.034 and 0.038. I got some Autolite Spark plugs which were gapped to 0.032 and that is the best I could find. I couldn't find anything within 0.028 and 0.031 which is my cars required plugs, and the system on the computer at O'Reilly's showed 0.028 - 0.032. It still has a check engine light, and is still misfiring. I am not quite sure what to do. Need advice.
 
Just for an update: I fixed the battery terminal on my car so it is not loose anymore. I also took out the spark plugs and saw that the gap was different for each spark plug, it was between 0.034 and 0.038. I got some Autolite Spark plugs which were gapped to 0.032 and that is the best I could find. I couldn't find anything within 0.028 and 0.031 which is my cars required plugs, and the system on the computer at O'Reilly's showed 0.028 - 0.032. It still has a check engine light, and is still misfiring. I am not quite sure what to do. Need advice.
Get new wires. The plugs are also not pre gapped. You're supposed to gap them. Make sure you have the right plug. The choice for most of us is ngk bpr6es. That is not the stock plug for a 2g. The automates themselves won't cause a misfire but make sure its the right plug or just scrap them and get ngk. I buy them by the box online.
 
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Get new wires. The plugs are also not pre gapped. You're supposed to gap them. Make sure you have the right plug. The choice for most of us is ngk bpr6es. That is not the stock plug for a 2g. The automates themselves won't cause a misfire but make sure its the right plug or just scrap them and get ngk. I buy them by the box online.
Okay, I will get new wires asap, how can I check if a coil pack is faulty or bad? I checked the gap of the autolite spark plug and it was 0.032 for all four, so I will replace them with the ones you suggested. Could you send the link to the online site that you buy them from, I want to see that if I can't get them from an autoparts store, then I will order it online. Also how can I check for a compression test? I need to fix this issue before I go back to school this next week.

Edit: The link was not showing up on my phone. I was able to access it through my laptop. Thanks.
 
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That's weird as I didn't put a link. Get them anywhere but they are cheaper at rockauto.com
I guess the website added a link to it since it recognized it as a part. Do you recommend I get the wires from Rockauto as well? And what kind of wires should I get for my car? I am not familiar with brand names and what gives me the most bang for my buck.

Could you also send a link to the ones I should get on rockauto.com? There are two kinds when I put in ngk bpr6es.
 
Okay, I will get new wires asap, how can I check if a coil pack is faulty or bad? I checked the gap of the autolite spark plug and it was 0.032 for all four, so I will replace them with the ones you suggested. Could you send the link to the online site that you buy them from, I want to see that if I can't get them from an autoparts store, then I will order it online. Also how can I check for a compression test? I need to fix this issue before I go back to school this next week.

Edit: The link was not showing up on my phone. I was able to access it through my laptop. Thanks.
One problem at a time. I told you on post two to change wires. Rule out the easy stuff first.

I guess the website added a link to it since it recognized it as a part. Do you recommend I get the wires from Rockauto as well? And what kind of wires should I get for my car? I am not familiar with brand names and what gives me the most bang for my buck.

Could you also send a link to the ones I should get on rockauto.com? There are two kinds when I put in ngk bpr6es.
There is only one bpr6es. Don't know what you mean two different. Ngk wires are popular. I'm cheap and I don't run them. I use bwd less than 10$ a set.
 
Do not search for 1997. As stated bpr6es is not the original plug. Search fir 90 to 94. Or just search the ngk part num.
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This is my screen on rockauto. I searched up ngk bpr6es and two ngk spark plugs came up.

Rockautos charges so much on tax and shipping. $7 spark plugs and $12 wires results in a total $38.00. It's too much LOL.
 
FYI, rock auto is a supporting vendor. Here is a link to a thread that will help you with a 5% off coupon to shave some of that tax.


Another tip when using rock auto is to add the main thing you need to your cart, then when shopping for the rest of your supplies there will be an icon to let you know if it will ship from the same warehouse. I assume you incurred two shipping charges and that’s why you got a little sticker shock.
 
Just to update, I changed the wires, but I do not think that was the reason for the misfires, the old wires don’t look so bad so I’ll post some photos later.

However, I turned on the car, and could hear a hissing noise coming from the fuel injector and exhaust manifold area. I couldn’t pinpoint the exact location because I’m kinda scared of spraying soapy water on there since it might blow up, but how can I pinpoint that?

Edit: Sorry I think I meant the intake manifold, not the exhaust manifold. It’s the area right next to the injectors. That’s the area the hissing sound was coming from
 
So I created my own boost leak tester, only issue is that when I try to pump air in, there is no air pressure that’s created because of a leak somewhere. However, when I quickly spray the injector/intake area with soapy water and then quickly start pumping fast and hard, air pressure is created, however, I can’t tell where it’s coming from since it’s not a constant source of pressure. I don’t have an air compressor so need to figure that out.
 
So I created my own boost leak tester, only issue is that when I try to pump air in, there is no air pressure that’s created because of a leak somewhere. However, when I quickly spray the injector/intake area with soapy water and then quickly start pumping fast and hard, air pressure is created, however, I can’t tell where it’s coming from since it’s not a constant source of pressure. I don’t have an air compressor so need to figure that out.
Yeah its next to impossible to do without shop air.
 
If the leak is so bad it's audible I'm surprised you didnt catch it earlier
Yea I’ve never really gotten close to an engine, so I assumed the hissing sound was a part of the engine itself.

Just to update, I connected an air compressor to it, but whenever I push the lever, the air sounds as if it’s coming out from somewhere around the air intake area, I sprayed the intake manifold and injectors area with water but didn’t see any bubbles, the air seems to be and sounds like it’s coming out from somewhere around the air intake area.

Can anyone put a link to a distributor for my car. I want to try and replace it.

Does anyone know what this is? It was just hanging from my car underneath the air intake box.

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Can anyone put a link to a distributor for my car. I want to try and replace it.
You don't have a distributor. Besides that I wouldn't throw parts at the car. It's a very expensive way to diagnose.
What were the results of the boost leak test? Does it gold pressure for any length of time? You've already stated the leak is audible which suggests it's large. It's probably causing trouble if not the very root cause of your problem.

Does anyone know what this is? It was just hanging from my car underneath the air intake box.

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It's a broken connector and no it's not supposed to be hanging. I would at least cover it up for now until you can find where it went. Look for another broken piece. You're close to the fans. Are they operating correctly?
 
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