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Bee*R rev limiter install 420A 1996 PLEASE HELP

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Would you care to elaborate please?
Read the sentence immediately after that one, I think I have a knockoff version because all the research I've done shows that the real Bee R rev limiter should have 3 knobs on it. One labeled "rev 1", one labeled "rev 2", and one labeled "gain". The one I have only has 2 knobs. One for rev and one for gain. Also the real Bee R should have a 5 wire harness, mine has a 4 wire. I'm missing the knob and wire that needs to be grounded to the clutch switch to act as launch control or 2 step. As soon as I found this out I ordered a real one, which cost me $200 as opposed to the first one I bought that only cost me $85. That should have been the first sign to me that it was a knockoff. It was just a lack of research before purchasing. When I install the new one would be a great time for a writeup.
 
Read the sentence immediately after that one, I think I have a knockoff version because all the research I've done shows that the real Bee R rev limiter should have 3 knobs on it. One labeled "rev 1", one labeled "rev 2", and one labeled "gain". The one I have only has 2 knobs. One for rev and one for gain. Also the real Bee R should have a 5 wire harness, mine has a 4 wire. I'm missing the knob and wire that needs to be grounded to the clutch switch to act as launch control or 2 step. As soon as I found this out I ordered a real one, which cost me $200 as opposed to the first one I bought that only cost me $85. That should have been the first sign to me that it was a knockoff. It was just a lack of research before purchasing. When I install the new one would be a great time for a writeup.
I was using the Bee-R 2 step rev limiter as a launch control on my DSM long time ago and I have sold many used Bee-R units and installed it several times, but never on a 420A DSM. So I don't know if it even works on a 420a DSM. But at least I can say is this thread and other thread don't seem to be informing correctly. It seems nobody has ever installed properly. So I would like to input some infos before people decide that it doesn't work on a 420A DSM.
Also I think I mentioned in some other thread before that there are so many knock-offs Bee-R now, from my experience some works well, some don't. if you are not sure if the one you have is real or not, you can PM me with a pic of the unit and maybe I can recognize it.

After I saw the 420A pinout in the link above, I would try to connect as below first :
(The point is, I think people misunderstand often. I have seen some people are trying to connect it to coil output to cut ignition but what you actually need to connect is a crank sensor signal and a signal that can be used to read the engine speed)

Bee-R Red wire to 12v
Bee-R Black wire to Ground
Bee-R Green wire to ECU pin #32
Bee-R Yellow wire to ECU pin #73
Bee-R White wire to "Ground" switch (e-brake switch, clutch switch etc)
Bee-R Gray ring wire : Cut
Bee-R Brown ring wire : Connected
 
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I would think the handbrake switch is the way to go with the white wire. If you're like me and use the handbrake to hold the car still until you start slipping the clutch. That's the way I'm going to wire mine when the 5 wire controller arrives.
Drifting guys prefer the white wire to e-brake/hand-brake switch (whatever you call it). For drag racing/road racing etc, some prefer to the clutch switch, it depend how you would want it work. Up to you, it doesn't really matter as long as if the switch is a ground switch.
 
Bee-R Green wire to ECU pin #32
Bee-R Yellow wire to ECU pin #73
on a 95 ECU with the single connector it would be

Bee-R Green wire to ECU pin #25 (blue/white)
Bee-R Yellow wire to ECU pin #8 (white)
 
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