The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

Holset Help Oil leak

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hx32w

Probationary Member
13
1
May 22, 2021
Scotland, Europe
Hi all, I was wondering if you could give some advice.

Ok here’s the story. Sorry for long read. I have a HX32 for an rb25, I had an an10 drain. Discovered it was too small for the holset.

Oil didn’t drain quick enough, and leaked out core. I made up a 20mm ID steel drain for the turbo. I decided to take the turbo apart to clean it as I feared it was contaminated from being in the shed (it was) so i rebuilt it with China kit. After a few mins idling, It leaked oil out compressor side. I later found out the part numbers weren’t compatible (although the parts looked identical ?) I thought ok I will source a quality kit(Mellet) specifically for the Hx32w. But sadly it’s leaking again from the compressor side. You can see the oil coming out the compressor wheel.

I read on mellet they can leak at idle ? but will get not leak if upto engine speeds. I cannot get upto engine speeds as it’s a project and needs mapped etc and bits and bobs. But it didn’t leak oil before I rebuilt it and again it only idled.

I have double checked all the usuals. My Drain isn’t blocked. the drain is basically bang on vertical. I have disconnected the oil breather lines.

It’s an An4 feed. Do you think I should try a restrictor? I know a restrictor should not be necessary though... I’m fed up and on the verge of just buying another turbo but I’d rather not as I’m sure you know a genuine holset HX32 is hard to come by. Thinking of buying hx35 chra and putting my 32 stuff on it.

The current oil level is a little on the low side, however still between min and max. Maybe it needs more oil to build pressure perhaps ?


Thanks.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Also had the compressor housing off and started it up and pretty much leaked within 5 seconds ? surely if it was drain related it would take longer to build up the oil to leak ?

took the turbo off and cleaned the chra again and quite a fair amount of metal dust came out. Maybe the oil cavities were blocked wit LG all this shit and just poured out the seals ?

haven’t tried it back up yet.
Any help greatly appreciated
 
you might wanna have the turbo professionally rebuild. if you do, hit up JusMX141 as he is an actual professional turbo rebuilder.
 
If it is fixable, Justin can fix it.
If its MODIFIABLE, he can mod it.
He's my only turbo guy.
 
Thanks for the replies guys but I’m in the U.K. not USA. A Professional rebuild is always a good option but I’m not sure it will help.

I have build a few turbos before with great success. The only thing they can do differently is spec the rings properly. But as many people said and also the video I linked, the rings do not keep oil in,but contaminants out?

I may send a message to a company I buy kits from, see if they are willing to rebuild after I explain the situation.
 
Also is it worth trying an AN3 feed line first. I know a few people running an3 journals with no issues.
 
Restricting the flow on a Holset is not usually the fix but your turbo isn't one that is normally used on the 4g motors.
As you mentioned, its leaking so do you have any pressure ideas on the input side?
Draining them is usually the issue and you figured that part out. I feed up to 80lbs psi at WOT and around 16 or 17 lbs psi at idle hot, for example, and my thrust surfaces and journals always seem really good according to my rebuilder, if I just don't snap a shaft.
 
I think your right, the next step is to test oil pressure. What concerns me Is it leaks at idle so the oil pressure should be naturally low ? yet it’s pushing oil........ so I’m guessing it’s not oil pressure related?

regardless, I’m going to order an oil pressure tester and see what pressure I’m getting at the turbo.

The RB25Det NEO (R34GTT skyline) which I have has the N1 oil pump which does pump more oil than the standard Nissan oil pump found on the non NEO older RB25s...

I’m hoping there’s too much oil pressure going into the turbo and just simply need to maybe put a 1.5mm restrictor for example

It’s weird because a google search for the same setup, on forums etc, people say they need a restrictor and others say they don’t run one.

Thanks
 
Well on most applications, the restrictor isn't needed but we do check the turbo oil pressure to determine that. If you are running more than 80, I would consider restricting it a little at a time so you don't hurt the journals. I drain with a -12an or 3/4" drain tube on my Holset HX40s.
 
this is from the service manual

11. Oil return pipes are permitted to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.​
All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated​
connectors. To ensure oil drains into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection​
into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm​
above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan.​
12. Crankcase pressure should be limited to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in 2 ). Pressure above this level should be​
referred for further evaluation. Closed crankcase ventilation (CCV) systems are known to operate at​
elevated pressure and all applications must be referred for approval.​
13. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in 2 ) must show at the turbocharger oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine​
firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.​
14. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in 2 ). Maximum​
permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in 2 ) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in 2 ) is permitted during​
cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in 2 ).​
15. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum​


service manual can be downloaded HERE
 
Turbos with ample drainage will not leak at idle when there's no load on the unit and oil pressure entering the cartridge is at the lowest. If it's leaking, it can't drain...plain and simple.

Keep in mind drainage issues may not always be physical...if your PCV system is weak then engine will try to breathe through the turbo drain which prevents it from draining as well.
 
thanks for the help !

there’s seems to be no blow by, also I have the an breathers disconnected and so it vents straight out both cam covers, with no visible pressure/smoke coming out the breathers or oil filler cap ?

tonight I tried a 2mm restrictor in the block and it did the same. Leaked Within seconds

I ordered a clear drain hose but when it arrived it was waaaay to small, it’s definitely not the 20mm ID that I need for my drain.

I will order a bigger clear drain to see what’s going on.

I also ordered a oil pressure tester but that’s not here yet.

The only thing maybe is the cartridge is ruined/warped from Welding the 25mm drain to it?
 
Last edited:
Is it worth a try to take the sump off,
To see if there’s any blockages there ?

I will get a video of the drain and upload it to get a second opinion. In theory it’s within Holsets requirements. The drain is pretty much bang on straight down. Also minimum 19mm ID

I agree I think it is drain but honestly I can’t put my head around it.

Thanks.
 
Okay I’ve just bought a 26mm ID pipe off eBay and going to redo my current 20ish mm ID drain alongside a clear drain hose. I’m also going to fabricate a smooth bend on my drain fitting so it’s pointing upward towards the turbo and not parallel with the ground.

I hope there’s room around my manifold 😂

I’ll update here as it could benefit others, I will try update within 7 days.
 
Update.
I’m getting 28psi at the turbo inlet at idle.

I also tried a 1.5mm restrictor and it leaked. 5 seconds later LOL but still leaked.

just had the clear hose on. It does look like it is backing up... I will start fabbing up the bigger drain now .

update to follow

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
I got a kink in my drain one time and dam, that thing smoked and carried on so I put a hose clamp around it to keep it from kinking again. Now I am running the @MorrisonFab holset drain setup and it works FANTASTIC! Thanks Matt and Sam!!!
 
I also had my Downpipe off as the turbo stopped spinning and I was wondering if it stayed spinning would it leak. the turbo spinned like a jet with the downpipe off but needless to say it still leaked.
 
Question.

This may or may not be an issue........

I’ve been doing more research on sealing and have come to understand the turbo needs pressure both sides to seal? I’ve been testing with no compressor housing and therefore no boost? Which may explain why only the compressor side is leaking and not the exhaust.

But after its balancing and rebuild at the start of the year. I’m 99% sure I had all the cooler pipes bolted up therefore generating positive pressure at idle but still leaked. I don’t have the greatest memory in the world so I can only try and see - My 32mm ID Hose will arrive tomorrow for my newly fabbed 30mm ID drain and fitting. So I’ll make sure I have my compressor housing on all intercooler pipes are connected and tight. Fingers crossed.

pics of my drain and angled fitting.
I have also ported the drain hole little bit on the bearing housing, stripped and thoroughly cleaned after it of course. It also seems to be spinning a bit better by hand now as well.

Update with 24hours if my hose arrives on time.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Only Holset applications unless they share a similar flange. If so, it is a very nice setup.
Do they make one for Borg Warner turbo?
 
Are you intending to weld the drain pipe directly to the turbo or are you going to stick a flange in there once you finish mocking up/tack welding?
 
Are you intending to weld the drain pipe directly to the turbo or are you going to stick a flange in there once you finish mocking up/tack welding?
I’m welding onto the bearing housing. I’ve got a spare bearing housing in the post on the way so I’ll make an adaptor/flange so I can do it properly and bolt onto the bearing housing as Holset intended.

But for now this should work.
 
In my uneducated opinion it's an oil seal issue. You can make the drain as large as a river but I don't think that will help. Didn't leak before you rebuilt and now it leaks...therefore, problem is not the drain.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top