XC92
Proven Member
- 1,561
- 356
- Jul 22, 2020
-
Queens,
New_York
First thanks to everyone who's chimed in with tips and advice to help me diagnose and fix the various issues with my clutch system and trans. It's helped a lot even though there are still issues yet to be resolved (through no fault of anyone but myself and the fact that there are so many of them, which is to be expected for a 1G DSM at this point, especially when various maintenance tasks have been deferred, and weather forced me to put some off till spring).
Anyway, I just want to post an update on my Talon's status, and what's left to be done. With respect to the clutch disengagement issue, I've basically done all that can be done without replacing old parts, and there are still issues with disengagement and shifting into 1st gear, so clearly I need to replace some parts, make some adjustments, and fix the trans.
I.e. I've turned the clutch master cylinder rod as far in as it can go, bled the clutch line multiple times, adjusted the cruise control switch up, and replaced the slave cylinder with a new OEM unit, and still the pedal measurements are off and disengagement is almost at the floor (and after things have warmed up literally at if not beyond the floor, leading to grinding).
I've also confirmed that the pedal assembly has the dreaded slop, so it has to come out and I probably need to replace the lever arm at the very least, along with the bushings, replacing the arm bushing with a brass (or bronze?) one and have it properly welded.
I should probably also replace the MC, which shows signs of leaking (even though there doesn't appear to be air in the line, but perhaps there's some in or by the MC and I just haven't bled it properly. While I'm at it I might as well replace the rubber clutch hose and some other parts that have likely worn out, like the shift cable connectors and bushings.
And, of course, the trans has to come out and be rebuilt. And the flywheel resurfaced or replaced. And a new fork and fulcrum (I already replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate & TOB with quality new ones).
To summarize, here's what needs to be done
Several quick questions:
One, I'm wondering if I really need to weld the new lever arm if I put in a new one and lock it down tight (per spec of course), though, if it doesn't really start to slop for many years.
Two, could I just rebuild the MC with an OEM rebuild kit, or should I replace the whole thing?
Three, is it ok to replace only the flexible clutch hose, or should I replace the whole line with a new SS braided hose? The line itself appears to be fine, although who knows how the fittings will hold up when I replace the hose and MC. I have NICOPP left over from a brake line replacement on another car that I ended up not undertaking, and various fittings, and think I can do a proper double flare or bubble, so I could always use that to replace the line if needed.
Anyway, I just want to post an update on my Talon's status, and what's left to be done. With respect to the clutch disengagement issue, I've basically done all that can be done without replacing old parts, and there are still issues with disengagement and shifting into 1st gear, so clearly I need to replace some parts, make some adjustments, and fix the trans.
I.e. I've turned the clutch master cylinder rod as far in as it can go, bled the clutch line multiple times, adjusted the cruise control switch up, and replaced the slave cylinder with a new OEM unit, and still the pedal measurements are off and disengagement is almost at the floor (and after things have warmed up literally at if not beyond the floor, leading to grinding).
I've also confirmed that the pedal assembly has the dreaded slop, so it has to come out and I probably need to replace the lever arm at the very least, along with the bushings, replacing the arm bushing with a brass (or bronze?) one and have it properly welded.
I should probably also replace the MC, which shows signs of leaking (even though there doesn't appear to be air in the line, but perhaps there's some in or by the MC and I just haven't bled it properly. While I'm at it I might as well replace the rubber clutch hose and some other parts that have likely worn out, like the shift cable connectors and bushings.
And, of course, the trans has to come out and be rebuilt. And the flywheel resurfaced or replaced. And a new fork and fulcrum (I already replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate & TOB with quality new ones).
To summarize, here's what needs to be done
- Remove pedal assembly and replace and weld in place new OEM lever arm, using new bushings, including a brass or bronze one by the lever arm, along with new pad & clevis pin, and reinstall
- Replace the master cylinder with new OEM unit (and bench bleed before installing)
- Replace clutch line rubber hose with braided steel hose
- Replace shift and select cable connectors and bushings (at both ends)
- Remove trans and rebuild as needed
- Replace fork & fulcrum (probably with Competition Clutch versions)
- Resurface or replace flywheel (probably with ACT Streetlite)
- Bleed and adjust everything as needed once everything's reinstalled
Several quick questions:
One, I'm wondering if I really need to weld the new lever arm if I put in a new one and lock it down tight (per spec of course), though, if it doesn't really start to slop for many years.
Two, could I just rebuild the MC with an OEM rebuild kit, or should I replace the whole thing?
Three, is it ok to replace only the flexible clutch hose, or should I replace the whole line with a new SS braided hose? The line itself appears to be fine, although who knows how the fittings will hold up when I replace the hose and MC. I have NICOPP left over from a brake line replacement on another car that I ended up not undertaking, and various fittings, and think I can do a proper double flare or bubble, so I could always use that to replace the line if needed.