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Friends GSX Eclipse issues

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49erGizmo

5+ Year Contributor
86
12
Nov 3, 2017
Cedar Park, Texas
Friends message to me..., my gsx won't idle at all and when i want to drive it the car won't even go 20 mph in 1st gear . i had to see if it's the cam sensor but i don't know how to do that . idk if your available this today or tomorrow to check out . but whenever i wanna drive it i give it gas so it won't turn off but it barely wants to drive at all and if i i put the pedal down it doesn't wanna speed up

Any one have heard of this issue or what it might be.
 

I check all his pipes from frontmount intercooler to intake manifold everything looked great..

So I dont think its a boost leak..
I noticed his throttle body wire to petal is loose not snug. Could this affect the car from staying on ?

So like he was saying two things first car dont want to stay on. You have to hold gas down to stay on
2nd if he forced the car to stay on a drive won't go pass 10 to 20 mph
 
I noticed his throttle body wire to petal is loose not snug.

It's not designed to be snug, it's designed to be loose so that it doesn't hold the throttle open.
 
You might also want to ask about things like what year car and if it's an auto or manual, if there is a CEL and which code, if the car seems like it running on all cylinders, and anything else that might help you and everyone else diagnose the problem.
 
Friends car is a 1997 GSX eclipse manual.
And it was running just fine till one day to the next...

The only thing wrong with the car before this happend was the car would not go over 4,500 rpm

But now he has this problem with not staying on .when foot is off the pedal.
 
Last edited:
I check all his pipes from frontmount intercooler to intake manifold everything looked great..

So I dont think its a boost leak..
I noticed his throttle body wire to petal is loose not snug. Could this affect the car from staying on ?

So like he was saying two things first car dont want to stay on. You have to hold gas down to stay on
2nd if he forced the car to stay on a drive won't go pass 10 to 20 mph
Looked great? Test it and know for sure. Visual inspection is not enough

Why doesn't your friend just join here then he can have a profile etc. We can help him directly.
 
Not sure but all the My son's Friends rely on me to fix and figure out their cars LOL.
For me, it keeps me busy and allows me to learn as much as I can.

plus I have the same kind of car 1997 GSX eclipse.
 
If all of a sudden it wasn't running right then something happened. Need to quiz him why. He would do well to join here.
 
The only thing wrong with the car before this happened was the car would not go over 4,500 rpm.

Not to bust your chops but it sounds like it did have issues before it stopped idling. Was it misfiring or just no HP past that point?

Assuming it's firing on all cylinders the idle speed is controlled largely by the throttle body (BISS screw and ISC/IAC) and ECU (MAF readings, and control over the ISC/IAC).

My car won't run at all if the intake pipes pop off but I've heard of 2G's running, so Paul asking about it was a great question. The Idle Speed Controller (ISC/IAC) motors in the throttle body are know to fail and short out the ECU Drivers. That can cause the car to not idle but doesn't usually keep it from rev'ing to redline.

Right now all we can do is guess along with you based on the information we have.
 
Not to bust your chops but it sounds like it did have issues before it stopped idling. Was it misfiring or just no HP past that point?

Assuming it's firing on all cylinders the idle speed is controlled largely by the throttle body (BISS screw and ISC/IAC) and ECU (MAF readings, and control over the ISC/IAC).

My car won't run at all if the intake pipes pop off but I've heard of 2G's running, so Paul asking about it was a great question. The Idle Speed Controller (ISC/IAC) motors in the throttle body are know to fail and short out the ECU Drivers. That can cause the car to not idle but doesn't usually keep it from rev'ing to redline.

Right now all we can do is guess along with you based on the information we have.



I have been asking Him many question. I know when he got the car about 1 and half a go, it has been running but he just couldn't get the car to pass 4,500 RPM, it was taken to a shop in SA called Street Lab science and they couldn't figure it out all they said it could be his Cam sensor that is controlling his RPM issue but to me that didn't make sense. they did miss with the car but according to Miguel car came back worse.

He bought this car with all these upgrades and modification but the car has never ran strong since he bought it...

All He said was one day he takes the car to a car wash to get ready for a car meet to waking up in the morning to car not wanting to stay on.
 
DSMers,
Here is the List of stuff that has been done to this GSX that we are trying to get back on the road.

6 Bolt Swap 2 Liter 4g63 w/ Ross pistons / Scat rods

GSC S3 280 cams

Kiggley beehive springs

New valve stem seals

Fidanza cam gears

AEM Series 2 engine management

Defi Boost, Oil Pressure, EGT gauges

Innovate LC1 wideband/gauge

Magnus V3 intake manifold

Shaved Q45 throttle body (FIAV removed)

ETS 5'' intercooler 3'' inlet 3'' outlet

Garrett 57 trim T3 turbo

Turbonetics T3 manifold

Tial 38mm wastegate

Tial Q BOV

Walbro 255 fuel pump

1000cc injectors

Shaved valve cover w/ 8an fittings welded on

Calan catch can

Aeromotive FPR and fuel rail

JMFab coil pack relocation

Greddy Profec B boost controller Spec 1

Fluidampr pulley

Tucked Afco VW Scirocco radiator w/16an braided radiator hose

ACT 2600 clutch

B&M short shifter

Symborski shift kit

Braided clutch line

Removed clutch dampner

Removed a/c. Heat still works

Relocated battery to hatch area

Saturn alternator upgrade.

Stripped wire harness w/ deutsch connector near firewall. Fusebox moved to glovebox.

Evo 8 Brembo front and rear brake swap

3g Eclipse brake booster

Stainless brakes lines

Tein SS Coilovers w/ pillowball uppermounts

SSR SP3 18X8.5 +37 wheels

Nitto NT555 tires 235/40/18,

Sparco Lap 5 steering wheel

Shaved side markers and fog lights on front bumper. Bumper primed

Carbon fiber hood with Aerocatch pins

Stainless brakes lines
 
Nice laundry list. I have a question & a comment. Question - why a Profec boost contoller when running an AEM EMS? Comment - has a actual boost leak test been done? I did not see it mentioned that the leak test was actually done to find any leaks.
 
Nice laundry list. I have a question & a comment. Question - why a Profec boost contoller when running an AEM EMS? Comment - has a actual boost leak test been done? I did not see it mentioned that the leak test was actually done to find any leaks.


Learning as I go but No I have not tested the boost leak with any tooling .I just check all the piping connection and everything looked good.I saw an old post how to make a boost leak tester. But haven't had time just yet.

As for why would it have Profec Boost controller while running an AEM EMS.

I dont know should it not have both?
Like I said learning as I go with this Eclipse
 
No right or wrong just personal preference, hence my question. The AEM can also do boost control & do it well. You wouldn't need the Profec if you used the EMS for doing boost control.
 
Thank you for the list, we would have never guessed. None of the suggestions that assumed a stock car really apply. I'd start by learning how to log using the EMS and see how the EMS is configured. If it's running speed density boost leaks get lower on the diagnostic checklist.
 
I’ve dealt with shitshow cars. If it has AEM it shouldn’t have a old school Profec B. The wiring is probably pretty crazy, it might not even have a tune, and you’re most likely chasing a bunch of issues. You need to get into the computer and look at the tune. There you can check for normal sensor readings. Do a boost leak test. Check compression and timing. Do it all.
 
I’ve dealt with shitshow cars. If it has AEM it shouldn’t have a old school Profec B. The wiring is probably pretty crazy, it might not even have a tune, and you’re most likely chasing a bunch of issues. You need to get into the computer and look at the tune. There you can check for normal sensor readings. Do a boost leak test. Check compression and timing. Do it all.


I informed Miguel about the AEM and Profec B. hopefully this weekend I get free time to help figure out more about this car.
 
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