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2G Shifting my automatic, manual

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ChristianEclipseAuto

5+ Year Contributor
119
9
Apr 6, 2018
Roskilde, Europe
Hi Dsm owners

Hopefuller i will get a good answer. I searching the Forum and could not find answers.
It’s my first automatic. 250 km later engine broke last year the engine blew up. So not it is rebuild with new componants, so it’s driving again.

My question: Can I manual without a problem shift from L-2-3 (with OD on)

I never Tried it, and it’s in for the Winther so i am waiting until it gets better weather. (Denmark)
 
Yes you can, I used to all of the time. Now I have a stand alone, aftermarket, Transmission Control Unit and I like shifting, as I have buttons mounted on my steering wheel. Just don't gear DOWN to early.
 
Yes you can, I used to all of the time. Now I have a stand alone, aftermarket, Transmission Control Unit and I like shifting, as I have buttons mounted on my steering wheel. Just don't gear DOWN to early.
Nice thanks for answer. Which type of buttons have you used ? (Maybe you Can send picture) Maybe i should do the same thing through forcedfour. I was thinking swapping to manual trans, But if i Can make this work for me it would be cool enough i Think.
 
You can shift the car as you explained. Are you only wanting to do the shifting because of the snow or are you also trying to drive the car hard? I also have the forced four tcu and and a few other things to compliment the tcu. I am not sure you would benefit enough to justify spending the money on the tcu if your not driving the car hard. If you plan on driving the car hard with the auto, make sure you monitor trans temps. The tcu definitely improves your driving experience. From my reading, the people that are going with the tcu, also have modified their car in multiple areas.

Is there something that is concerning you about switching to manual? I have done both. My car was an auto, broke the trans, then did the manual swap since I had the parts already. Im going back to auto in the next few months.
 
You can shift the car as you explained. Are you only wanting to do the shifting because of the snow or are you also trying to drive the car hard? I also have the forced four tcu and and a few other things to compliment the tcu. I am not sure you would benefit enough to justify spending the money on the tcu if your not driving the car hard. If you plan on driving the car hard with the auto, make sure you monitor trans temps. The tcu definitely improves your driving experience. From my reading, the people that are going with the tcu, also have modified their car in multiple areas.

Is there something that is concerning you about switching to manual? I have done both. My car was an auto, broke the trans, then did the manual swap since I had the parts already. Im going back to auto in the next few months.
Yes, i wanted to go a little further in the gears before its shifting. I have looked at forced Four. Is that any good ? Are there any clutch mods or any type of mods there would be good to change if i need to drive the car harder.? And are they easy to install? the car is a summercar / Daily build, Stock turbo ect ect. I have a 16g But it is not installed.
If you are doing a auto swap, I would be interestet buying your manual trans if it is for sale.
 
Yes, i wanted to go a little further in the gears before its shifting. I have looked at forced Four. Is that any good ? Are there any clutch mods or any type of mods there would be good to change if i need to drive the car harder.? And are they easy to install? the car is a summercar / Daily build, Stock turbo ect ect. I have a 16g But it is not installed.
If you are doing a auto swap, I would be interestet buying your manual trans if it is for sale.

My opinion, you don't need to worry about upgrading clutches on a 16g build. If your doing a 16g build I assume you know about supporting mods to go with that. If you wanted your tranny to last longer. Put in good fluid and get a better cooler. But it doesn't make sense to try and direct you in transmission parts that cost decent money. When your also asking about a manual swap which also costs decent amount of money.

But to awncer your main question. You can shift like you wanted to.
 
Yes manually shifting your auto is just fine. If you accidently drop it in neutral and don't realize it right away just make sure you roughly rev match for 3rd gear before you put it back into drive. It wont hurt it much if you don't but it is a bit hard on the forward clutch. The 100.1 has been discontinued. Its replacement is the SMART 150. I personally went with the DSM-Plus2, some paddles, and a custom solution for reducing shift pressure when off throttle. Much cheaper but more labor intensive, right up my ally.
 
Yes manually shifting your auto is just fine. If you accidently drop it in neutral and don't realize it right away just make sure you roughly rev match for 3rd gear before you put it back into drive. It wont hurt it much if you don't but it is a bit hard on the forward clutch. The 100.1 has been discontinued. Its replacement is the SMART 150. I personally went with the DSM-Plus2, some paddles, and a custom solution for reducing shift pressure when off throttle. Much cheaper but more labor intensive, right up my ally.
Okay thanks for the answer. I Think Will go with, changing the Oil, filter and installing a shiftbox from forcedfour and som buttons to shift. (Any suggestions on which buttons to use) Where do i find the filter for the autotrans ? And a good filter ? :D i am really surpriced about this Eclipse automatics. You guys have so much knowledge.
 
Well aheh, you'll need 7-8qts (according to the manual) of trans fluid, a transmission pan gasket, and a new filter. The filter is inside the transmission below the valve body just as you drop the pan and unfortunately there is no drain plug so it might get a bit messy. I purchased a forward clutch kit, a valve body kit, and a filter just under a year ago from IPT.

The valve body rebuild makes even the TCUs shifts feel more direct as if they have a purpose. It also remedies a good bit of the "hang time" between certain gear changes. It was definitely more fun to drive after that even without a shift box. I personally started with the internal work before getting the box. My trans was already 25 years old at the time and the last thing I needed was a slipping clutch or some other issue caused from lack of maintenance on a car that I drive almost every day.

As far as buttons go, I don't know if anything is made for our factory steering wheels. I just sort of found something cheap on ebay that I thought would be easy to make a bracket for. If it didn't work as planned at least I wasn't out a lot of money.
 
Well aheh, you'll need 7-8qts (according to the manual) of trans fluid, a transmission pan gasket, and a new filter. The filter is inside the transmission below the valve body just as you drop the pan and unfortunately there is no drain plug so it might get a bit messy. I purchased a forward clutch kit, a valve body kit, and a filter just under a year ago from IPT.

The valve body rebuild makes even the TCUs shifts feel more direct as if they have a purpose. It also remedies a good bit of the "hang time" between certain gear changes. It was definitely more fun to drive after that even without a shift box. I personally started with the internal work before getting the box. My trans was already 25 years old at the time and the last thing I needed was a slipping clutch or some other issue caused from lack of maintenance on a car that I drive almost every day.

As far as buttons go, I don't know if anything is made for our factory steering wheels. I just sort of found something cheap on ebay that I thought would be easy to make a bracket for. If it didn't work as planned at least I wasn't out a lot of money.
Okay i have found there HomePage.
I dont know What to buy. But there is a filter and a gasket set.
What is the difference between my converter and ipt High stall converter. Can i drive with that regular driving or only race ?

and How Long time does it take to install a different valvebody and changing Oil ?

thanks for all the answers it is really usefull and I Can see i need to look much more into this autotrans
 
Well aheh, you'll need 7-8qts (according to the manual) of trans fluid, a transmission pan gasket, and a new filter. The filter is inside the transmission below the valve body just as you drop the pan and unfortunately there is no drain plug so it might get a bit messy. I purchased a forward clutch kit, a valve body kit, and a filter just under a year ago from IPT.

The valve body rebuild makes even the TCUs shifts feel more direct as if they have a purpose. It also remedies a good bit of the "hang time" between certain gear changes. It was definitely more fun to drive after that even without a shift box. I personally started with the internal work before getting the box. My trans was already 25 years old at the time and the last thing I needed was a slipping clutch or some other issue caused from lack of maintenance on a car that I drive almost every day.

As far as buttons go, I don't know if anything is made for our factory steering wheels. I just sort of found something cheap on ebay that I thought would be easy to make a bracket for. If it didn't work as planned at least I wasn't out a lot of money.

https://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1672

Is that something worth buying and What does it do ?
 
Don't worry about the torque converter if your going to drive it on the street. This is really only a good modification for racing IMO as its main advantages are getting your launch boost higher and your RPMs farther into the torque curve from a dead stop. I believe they may beef up the lockup clutch as well. It'll probably tank your MPGs and may confuse the living hell out of your TCU. It may even make it undrivable at low throttle I really cant say from experience. I'm just speaking from my understanding of fluid couplers. Perhaps someone else with actual experience with higher stall converters will chime in on this subject.

The valve body kit is used to modify it yourself. It takes hours if not a day from the time you get started to the time your cleaned up. They do as well have a youtube channel where they go over the modification process in good detail. Its 4 videos at between 7 and 15 min each if I remember correctly. Look them over before ordering. If it seems like a bit much for you then maybe find someone local that can do it and not charge too much or hold off for now.

As for changing the filter, its about an hour or two from setup to cleanup and is really straight forward.
 
Don't worry about the torque converter if your going to drive it on the street. This is really only a good modification for racing IMO as its main advantages are getting your launch boost higher and your RPMs farther into the torque curve from a dead stop. I believe they may beef up the lockup clutch as well. It'll probably tank your MPGs and may confuse the living hell out of your TCU. It may even make it undrivable at low throttle I really cant say from experience. I'm just speaking from my understanding of fluid couplers. Perhaps someone else with actual experience with higher stall converters will chime in on this subject.

The valve body kit is used to modify it yourself. It takes hours if not a day from the time you get started to the time your cleaned up. They do as well have a youtube channel where they go over the modification process in good detail. Its 4 videos at between 7 and 15 min each if I remember correctly. Look them over before ordering. If it seems like a bit much for you then maybe find someone local that can do it and not charge too much or hold off for now.

As for changing the filter, its about an hour or two from setup to cleanup and is really straight forward.
Okay thanks. And the valvebody kit is that the shiftkit and Can you tell me What exactly it does ?
 
Don't worry about the torque converter if your going to drive it on the street. This is really only a good modification for racing IMO as its main advantages are getting your launch boost higher and your RPMs farther into the torque curve from a dead stop. I believe they may beef up the lockup clutch as well. It'll probably tank your MPGs and may confuse the living hell out of your TCU. It may even make it undrivable at low throttle I really cant say from experience. I'm just speaking from my understanding of fluid couplers. Perhaps someone else with actual experience with higher stall converters will chime in on this subject.

The valve body kit is used to modify it yourself. It takes hours if not a day from the time you get started to the time your cleaned up. They do as well have a youtube channel where they go over the modification process in good detail. Its 4 videos at between 7 and 15 min each if I remember correctly. Look them over before ordering. If it seems like a bit much for you then maybe find someone local that can do it and not charge too much or hold off for now.

As for changing the filter, its about an hour or two from setup to cleanup and is really straight forward.

i was thinking buying this translap shift kit from ipt, But What does it do ? And do I gain some type of performance ?
 
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