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Evo 8-10 Brembo Calipers DSM Conversion (for 1g too)

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How so? What trouble? Don't want to make use of the wider track? Granted the fronts you'd have to use some spacers to match ....

Well I kicked the idea around for some time but in the end the way I understood is that you want the front to be wider not the rear. Rear wider means under steer. It will just push. So either you make the front wider or you tuck the rear. I choosed to tuck the rear. Also if the car will be driven on the street it is illegal to have tires poke outside of the fender line. That's where that euro tire stretch came from. I also spend a lot of time on fender flares but I figure if I will do fender flares then I might as well have low offset wheels and not spacers. So that's why I moded the whole rear end. Also I don't like spacers. I feel that they are not safe but that's just me. Also I wanted everything to work and be functional and not something that looks weird. The only thing I don't like is the away away bar or I should say how it sits with the link connected. But everything articulates so I will let it go.
 
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I get all that. That's cool. But if you just shorten the upper and lower control arms, did you change how the front of the arm mounts as well? I'd imagine if you didn't the arms would sit angled to in, but on the backside of the tire? Or am I just imagining this?

I apologize for the barrage of questions and I do appreciate the responses. Just curiosity on your process doing the 3kgt swap as I'm doing it as well.
 
Once you alter the upper and lower arms you will not have anymore toe so you would have to shorten the toe on the trailing arms and then extended it because wheel base changes. Also you need to have access to an alignment machine because every time you cut something you need to check if it will be alignmable, I had my car on the machine like 6 times before I found the close enough adjustment. Also you will run into axle being too long. When I was going thru it I only asked how much Joe racing toe eliminator gives you adjustment and absolutely no one answered. Believe me I do understand what you want but this you will have to do on your own because I cut the railing arms to fit and their is no precise measearment that I could give.
 
All subframe mounts are stock. I made the trailing arm fit the way I wanted. Because of it weird shape I could not measure it properly plus it was done like 6 months ago. I hope I answer some of your questions. It would be nice if some one builds a subframe to make this swap easy but I don't see many people doing this just because of how much it costs and how much problems you run into.
 
Yeah, I will post up some pics. I think they are on my old phone, but I'll find them. I was just curious really, thank you for the insight though. I already planned on going with the wider track so the only mod I did to the trailing arm was the shock mounting point. I'm using the 1g lower control arms but using the 3kgt lower ballpoint which fits perfectly into the 1g lower. The arms are the exactly the same except for the bushing through bolt. Its bigger on the 3kgt, hence using the 1g arm so I don't have to drill the subframe. I'm also using the toe eliminate kit, simple weld in. The only issue I have so far is the upper arm. I have the ingalls adjustable and would love to retain using them, but the ball joint shaft is too small.... trying to find a replacement and if not, will probably build my own upper arms. I had already planned on using fender flares and spacers for the front to even out the track. Plus it'll help to get wider tires under her... looking for more of a track setup with as much grip as possible for the corners.
 
I used upper and lower ball joints for 3kgt. I wanted to get adjustable arms but all of them have smaller ball joints and that don't sit well with me. Also shock mount is lower on 3kgt then on dsm so that has to be considered. Also if you want evo suspension then I would not do dsm mount. Simply because their is already an adapter available for 3kgt. Well post up with what you have and maybe we can make a how to or something. I will align my car maybe in a week or two. So will post back with more pictures and specs.
 
It might be a little before I mount them up.... working on the rear end... evo 3 mechanical diff with diff rebuild, clean and painting rear subframe and replacing bushings. And find the time, LOL.

I am having trouble finding the cut and weld work i did to the trailing arms, but i can snap some finished product pics in the mean time.

I'm also having trouble locating a pair of evo 8 rear calipers... anyone know where I can pick up a set that I wont get hit over the head $ wise for?

Brembo, in yours I see the rotors... did you use evo rotors or the 3kgt rotors? I know there are very similar in size... maybe a 10mm difference, but what of the emergency brake, does that fit the evo rotor or did you just use the 3kgt rotor?
 
I wanted to wait until I was done the fronts to post this but here it goes.
I did a bunch of work and my own research, spent a lot of money buying pieces for measurements etc. I've only read a very vague post about the 3s setup on the galant forms without any pictures or anyone saying its been done. I like to think I'm the first, but you never know.
I ran the 3s rear setup last year, I'm still working on a solution for the fronts.
It was awkward looking last year, but it should be fixed some point this season, with the fronts being inline.
You can say what you want about the rear tires being out further causing understeer. The few runs I had on the autocross at the shootout, it felt like the back end was going to swing around on every turn. Maybe this was because of the larger 3s rear brakes, I don't know. But it was damn fun.
I started a writeup on my local forum, but I need to keep updating it.
I also posted a lot of this on Instagram for those interested. @kuttzy

Writeup:
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=452714

Pics(trying to show the insane trackwidth):
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The cluster of a garage trying to figure this all out.
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It might be a little before I mount them up.... working on the rear end... evo 3 mechanical diff with diff rebuild, clean and painting rear subframe and replacing bushings. And find the time, LOL.

I am having trouble finding the cut and weld work i did to the trailing arms, but i can snap some finished product pics in the mean time.

I'm also having trouble locating a pair of evo 8 rear calipers... anyone know where I can pick up a set that I wont get hit over the head $ wise for?

Brembo, in yours I see the rotors... did you use evo rotors or the 3kgt rotors? I know there are very similar in size... maybe a 10mm difference, but what of the emergency brake, does that fit the evo rotor or did you just use the 3kgt rotor?

I used 2g 3kgt rotors. Caliper won't be exactly centered. I machine the ears to center the caliper. I didn't use evo rotors as I didn't have any on hand.

The rear brembo calipers are on back order. I contact every single vendor with no clear answer when they will be available. The only option you have is to find them used. I got all 4 used on eBay for 600.

I also did the evo 3 rear ended swap at that time but I have no miles on it to give a review.

I wanted to wait until I was done the fronts to post this but here it goes.
I did a bunch of work and my own research, spent a lot of money buying pieces for measurements etc. I've only read a very vague post about the 3s setup on the galant forms without any pictures or anyone saying its been done. I like to think I'm the first, but you never know.
I ran the 3s rear setup last year, I'm still working on a solution for the fronts.
It was awkward looking last year, but it should be fixed some point this season, with the fronts being inline.
You can say what you want about the rear tires being out further causing understeer. The few runs I had on the autocross at the shootout, it felt like the back end was going to swing around on every turn. Maybe this was because of the larger 3s rear brakes, I don't know. But it was damn fun.
I started a writeup on my local forum, but I need to keep updating it.
I also posted a lot of this on Instagram for those interested. @kuttzy

Writeup:
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=452714

Pics(trying to show the insane trackwidth):
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The cluster of a garage trying to figure this all out.
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Thanks for sharing. Car looks hot. As far as understeer go that's just my research with no real world experience so don't mean no harm. I am glad it's working for you. I am in it over 2k already so I too have invested a lot. Also post more pictures on those fender flares and details. Looks good.

I also found some weird post on galant forums and I believe I also found your post now that I am thinking about it. Their is no information on if the calipers actually fit or not. I had to spend 850 dollars just to see if it will actually fit. Talk about takin some risk. This whole swap was a risk. Every part of it. And the worst part of it is that parts are not available.
 
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Thanks for sharing. Car looks hot. As far as understeer go that's just my research with no real world experience so don't mean no harm. I am glad it's working for you. I am in it over 2k already so I too have invested a lot. Also post more pictures on those fender flares and details. Looks good.

I also found some weird post on galant forums and I believe I also found your post now that I am thinking about it. Their is no information on if the calipers actually fit or not. I had to spend 850 dollars just to see if it will actually fit. Talk about takin some risk. This whole swap was a risk. Every part of it. And the worst part of it is that parts are not available.

I had the same research findings with the understeer and rears that stick out. Until I actually took it around some corners.
I was only running the single piston 3kgt rear calipers and rotors, but recently found some 2g 3S dual piston rear calipers with the mitsu lettering. Very rare and cost me a lot but. Should look awesome.
I was having a hard time as well finding rear Brembo's that wouldn't cost me my kidney.

And I agree this whole swap was a risk not knowing what does and doesn't fit.
I was so convinced I could make the front hubs work too but ran into issues trying to make a hybrid oem axle. I have another plan up my sleeve.
 
I wanted to wait until I was done the fronts to post this but here it goes.
I did a bunch of work and my own research, spent a lot of money buying pieces for measurements etc. I've only read a very vague post about the 3s setup on the galant forms without any pictures or anyone saying its been done. I like to think I'm the first, but you never know.
I ran the 3s rear setup last year, I'm still working on a solution for the fronts.
It was awkward looking last year, but it should be fixed some point this season, with the fronts being inline.
You can say what you want about the rear tires being out further causing understeer. The few runs I had on the autocross at the shootout, it felt like the back end was going to swing around on every turn. Maybe this was because of the larger 3s rear brakes, I don't know. But it was damn fun.
I started a writeup on my local forum, but I need to keep updating it.
I also posted a lot of this on Instagram for those interested. @kuttzy

Writeup:
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=452714

Thanks for sharing, I might do this on my talon, is there an official list of parts that you made, I likely will check out the link you left, every now and then I see 3kgt vr4s or stealths at parts yards so I might try this as well, I already have evo 8 brembo calipers and rotors I picked em up from someone that had a wrecked evo so I guess now I have to find a 3kgt/stealth vr4/rt.
 
Parts list? Not really, but you pretty much want to get everything from a 3kgt vr4 for the rear...

- both rear trailing arms from a 2g 3kgt vr4 (make sure it's all there... ebrake set up, backing plate, ebrake cables, hub, axle cups AND the nut and washers that hold them on)

- upper and lower control arms, preferably with balljoints( I don't believe the rear lower ball joint is available anymore, dealer or aftermarket, at least from my searching)

- if your going the route of using the 3kgt vr4 rear brakes, then get the calipers and rotors

- you're already gonna be in there and I'm sure cleaning things up, so it's a perfect time to do the toe eliminator kit(its fits both dsm and 3kgt)

- 3sx.com sells an adapter so you can use evo 8 rear suspension, it's for the lower shock mount, should you choose to go this way... or if you go the route I went.... carefully cut off the lower shock mount from both your dsm trailing arm and 3kgt trailing arm and weld the dsm shock mount on the vr4 trailing arm. Depends on how you want to go with suspension.

- paint, new bearings, etc ( if you really wanna do it all, just replace it all, bearings, brake shoes, brake pads, rotors, etc!)

Clearly it can and will be involved and pricey depending on where and how you find parts. On Facebook, I found a bunch of 3kgt classifieds groups... found one person who buys and parts out the cars.... I got everything in one shot all off the same car. In good shape too, zero rust.
 
Well I will put my .02 cents to this. If you want to have wheels poking out of the fenders then you can get everything like the above post. If you want the wheels to tuck then you will have to redesign rear suspension. Also to do evo calipers you will need lines. I think I got it from 3sx. You also will need to reflare and add a braket for the hard line. Upper and lower ball joints are the same. You can get one from local car quest.
 
Does anyone know if the Rear Evo X brembo calipers will bolt on to a 2G DSM?

I am searching for Evo 8/9 rear brembos but am unable to find a set, and there seem to be many Evo X brembo brake calipers for sale, I am wondering if this is because the Rear Evo X brembos are not compatible with a 2G.

Thank you in advance.
 
Sorry I bump this thread.
I'll to buy brackets on ebay and I would to know if 95-96 dsm Knuckles needs to be grinded like the 97-99 kunckles to install brackets or not?

Thank's all !
Phil.
 
Sorry I bump this thread.
I'll to buy brackets on ebay and I would to know if 95-96 dsm Knuckles needs to be grinded like the 97-99 kunckles to install brackets or not?

Thank's all !
Phil.

The earlier uprights don't need to be grinded is my understanding. The uprights on my 98 did need to be though.
 
Sorry I bump this thread.
I'll to buy brackets on ebay and I would to know if 95-96 dsm Knuckles needs to be grinded like the 97-99 kunckles to install brackets or not?

Thank's all !
Phil.
Yes, the 95-96 front knuckles need to be grinded just like the 97-99 knuckles to install the brackets because they're the same front knuckle *EDIT* as far as the brake caliper ears are concerned.
 
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Yes, the 95-96 front knuckles need to be grinded just like the 97-99 knuckles to install the brackets because they're the same front knuckle.

The rear knuckles are different from 95-96/97-99 but not the fronts.

I've spent the last half hour looking for some info on the fronts. I know there is a spindle/control arm kit that was cheap and I thought it was part of the recall. Mitsu had to include a new spindle because of some difference between 2ga and 2gb if I recall.
For the life of me I can't remember. I bought the kits just to get the lower control arms and for sure I did not use the new spindles on my 97 and it was a low low mile car when I got it. I do not suspect that anything had been changed on it and the records I have don't reflect it either.
Maybe someobdy can chime in but I do believe there is a difference in front spindles from year to year I just can't find it.
 
I've spent the last half hour looking for some info on the fronts. I know there is a spindle/control arm kit that was cheap and I thought it was part of the recall. Mitsu had to include a new spindle because of some difference between 2ga and 2gb if I recall.
For the life of me I can't remember. I bought the kits just to get the lower control arms and for sure I did not use the new spindles on my 97 and it was a low low mile car when I got it. I do not suspect that anything had been changed on it and the records I have don't reflect it either.
Maybe someobdy can chime in but I do believe there is a difference in front spindles from year to year I just can't find it.

It was a difference in the height of the portion on the '95 knuckles where the ball joints threads go through.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/resolved-oem-knuckle-control-arm-question.323990/
 
Yes, the area on the 97-99 knuckles is thicker where the ball joint stud comes up through, they do still need ground, I have the knuckle from the recall kit on one side and the stock 95' on the other side, they both needed modification.
 
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