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2G 2g with 1g 4g63 6 bolt swap

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EvolDSM

Probationary Member
17
1
Nov 14, 2020
milford, New_Hampshire
Hi im pretty new to dsm's i recently picked up a 2g with a 1g swap in it. Its an awd 5 speed, after doing some research i plan on replacing all the vac lines,fuel lines, main seals, gaskets that i possibly can. At this point im wondering before adding power should i just do a full rebuild on the engine meaning replacing all bearings rings and valve springs and guides
 
75 76 175 176 was the compression i that we received not sure why right now still diagnosing...also...6 bolt was swapped in using the 2 g harness its also using the 1g 6 bolt head i looked up some stuff and planned on using https://www.magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-1g-in-a-2g-adaptor-harness-97-99/ but it looks like. they did what i attached to this. currently the car starts and runs but runs extremely rough and dies without either giving some gas or using the screw on the intake to make the rpms increase until it warms up then still runs rough but will idle by itself. also if anyone can tell me the firing order that the 6 bolt is supposed to have and assuming that the firing order also follows the same as the injector order.

and also i know the firing order is 4 1 2 3 but it was set up for 1 4 3 2 keep in mind im using a 2g harness and i have a black box ECU. please send help!
 

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okay will do right now this is how we have our spark set up right now.

timing was off by 3 teeth so i have bent or broken valves looking more into this now.
 

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valves and pistons are fine....can compression be low from just being off 3 teeth? again the compression test was 75 76 175 176
 

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Do a compression test, leak down test, and go from there, do basic tests, and a boost leak test, will reveal a lot of information, as with any vehicle. Do your maintenance.
 
valves and pistons are fine....can compression be low from just being off 3 teeth? again the compression test was 75 76 175 176

I’d think it would be but it’s strange the other two cylinders are good. Get the timing set and recheck it. That can’t be running right with it being off that much. If it’s still low, add a little oil into the cylinders and see if those number come up. If they do, it’s your rings. If they don’t, it’s most likely valves but again, leak down test will point you in the right direction

So you have the head off now? Pull the cams, install plugs, flip it around and fill the combustion chamber with water and see if they leak
 
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its hard to do a leak down test when the engine is apart to determine if we bent valves after doing the compression test and resulting in 2 cylinders having low compression. like i said though the timing was off 3 teeth all i was really wondering if that could be the culprit of low compression. we will be doing a leak down after putting it back together waiting to get the parts.
 
do you have the torque requirements for the head? and valve cover? i have been looking for that info as well
 
we will be doing arp studs those have directions i believe i mostly mean for the cams the sequence if there is one and the torque recs. if we have to remove them to test.

i guess it has arp studs one it now but we should prob replace them
 
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cool man thank you for helping me out im trying to do it right and do all the maintenance and make sure the car is healthy before i start building.
 
cool man thank you for helping me out im trying to do it right and do all the maintenance and make sure the car is healthy before i start building.

No problem. That’s the right approach :thumb:

Make sure to use moly lube on the threads and washers when you torque down the head studs
 
my mechanic said he was going to lap all the valves and do umbrella seals? is that good or bad? and will i still be able to put the engine to 400-450 whp range?
 
idk he said this "Im going to lap all the valves and do umbrella seals" i said whats that mean? he then said "Instead of a valve job lap them in umbrella seals. Are valve stem seals" im just concerned if this is going to hinder my power goals.
 
Never heard the term umbrella seals so I just looked it up and think it’s just another term for valve stem seals used by older folks.

Just make sure to do all the proper maintenance and you’ll reach that goal with a healthy motor and supporting mods.
 
alright now that i know what im doing with the health of the motor and my mechanic is fixing the issues we have i have a few questions on mods...first and foremost. fp red or green im aiming for 400-450whp on 93 octane ive talked to tons of people saying stock internals can easily hold that and FP red and green are both really good options.
 
I ran a green on my 2g and I loved it. Motor was completely stock except for studs and hg. If you want 450 max, I’d go red. Obviously more lag as you go bigger. Choose wisely LOL

green 57lb/min
Red 61lb/min
Black 71/min
 
yeah i have cams and studs im thinking red. i have a black box ecu cant find anyone to tune it atm so ill be going ecm link
 
okay ran into another problem. while looking at the harness it seems to be altered and i dont know what they did to it someone i know has a un altered harness and i want to use https://www.ohm-racing.com/product/6-bolt-swap-cas-adapter so there is no confusion is there anything i need know know about the CAS and positioning or any other alterations i need to make sure i dont hurt my engine. also i have a 97 talon dose it matter what year harness i use? and im not sure what cas i have because it has a green cover.

do i still have to do any of this with a 1g head and the harness from ohm
 

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