XC92
Proven Member
- 1,573
- 362
- Jul 22, 2020
-
Queens,
New_York
Hi, I'm fairly new here so I hope this isn't inappropriate or too long, but I'm about to order a bunch of parts for my '92 Talon TSi AWD manual (build date May 1992), with around 79k miles on it (yes you read that right), and wanted to make sure they're right for the job. If anyone cares to weigh in pro or con or offer better alternatives or suggestions, it would be highly appreciated. If not, that's fine too.
It's for a clutch, timing and drive belt and pad/rotor replacement, and tuneup, all regular maintenance jobs except for the clutch, which is shot and needs to be replaced to get the car moving again.
My Talon is stock everything, original parts (other than standard maintenance replacement parts like pads, rotors, tires, etc.), no mods, including the turbo and exhaust, so it puts out 195HP. I don't race, track, compete, show, etc. It's a daily driver that will likely never be driven on any kind of track. I MIGHT mod it someday, but as they say that plus $2.50 gets you a cup of coffee at Starbucks, and even if I do it's going to be a year or two down the line.
I'd say that I'm a somewhat aggressive driver, e.g. fast out of the "gate" when the light turns green, quick merges on the highway, fast (but safe) lane changes, etc., but nothing too aggressive, e.g. no launches, burning rubber, drifting, tight turns that would make most passengers uncomfortable, etc. I used to engine brake, but have learned not to. I still downshift when it's called for, of course, and double clutch, but not to slow the car down.
Anything else you need to know about the car or my driving style, local roads and weather, etc., feel free to ask.
So here goes:
Pads/Rotors: Power Stop Z23 or Z26 (probably Z23 for my driving style and needs)
Clutch: Either an SBC K05048-HD for ~$220-230 or an SBC K05048-HD-O for ~$335. The former is rated up to 300HP while the latter up to 320HP. It seems like either would be suitable for my needs, but I've been advised that the latter would be less likely to burn out sooner. But it's also ~$105-$115 more for just 20HP more clamping power. Does anyone know what the real-world difference between the two is, for my driving style & needs?
Throwout Bearing: Pretty much everyone advises literally throwing out the aftermarket throwout bearing and getting the OEM one instead, which is sourced from several makers, including NSK. Is the NSK 48TKT3202 ok, or should I go to a Mitsubishi dealer and get it from them?
Timing Belt: I was going to get the Gates complete kit, with water pump & hydraulic tensioner, but was advised to get the more basic kit and buy the OEM tensioner separately. It's pretty pricey at $110-$140, but if it's the right part then it's the right part.
But are the rest of the Gates parts ok, e.g. belts, idlers, (non-hydraulic) tensioner, etc.?
There's also the SKF TBK167P kit, which also includes 2 cam seals and a TB cover seal, for $13 more. Is this preferable to the Gates, or is the Gates ok and get the $21 Dayco SK0079 seal kit separately?
Water Pump: Gates 42163 for $25 or AISIN WPM012 for $40
Thermostat: STANT 45869 (195 Degree)
Belts: Gates 9260 (WP/PS), K040372 (A/C) & K040390 (WP/Alt)
Spark Plugs: NGK BPR6ES
Plug Wire Set: NGK 9634
PCV Valve: FRAM FV266
Air Filter: WIX 46264 or K&N E-2875
Fuel Filter: HASTINGS GF288
Oil Filter: FRAM TG7317
Oil: Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic High Mileage (skip the HM & get non-HM?)
Transaxle Oil: Mitsubishi OEM 75W-85 or Motul Gear 300 75W-90
Transfer Case Oil: Red Line 58404 Lightweight Shockproof
Rear Diff Oil: Red Line 58404 Lightweight Shockproof
Power Steering Fluid: Mopar ATF+4 or Valvoline ATF +4 Full Synthetic
Brake/Clutch Fluid: Valvoline DOT 3/4
Coolant: Prestone Concentrate
That's about it, for now. I WILL get the flywheel looked at and resurfaced. Thanks in advance.
It's for a clutch, timing and drive belt and pad/rotor replacement, and tuneup, all regular maintenance jobs except for the clutch, which is shot and needs to be replaced to get the car moving again.
My Talon is stock everything, original parts (other than standard maintenance replacement parts like pads, rotors, tires, etc.), no mods, including the turbo and exhaust, so it puts out 195HP. I don't race, track, compete, show, etc. It's a daily driver that will likely never be driven on any kind of track. I MIGHT mod it someday, but as they say that plus $2.50 gets you a cup of coffee at Starbucks, and even if I do it's going to be a year or two down the line.
I'd say that I'm a somewhat aggressive driver, e.g. fast out of the "gate" when the light turns green, quick merges on the highway, fast (but safe) lane changes, etc., but nothing too aggressive, e.g. no launches, burning rubber, drifting, tight turns that would make most passengers uncomfortable, etc. I used to engine brake, but have learned not to. I still downshift when it's called for, of course, and double clutch, but not to slow the car down.
Anything else you need to know about the car or my driving style, local roads and weather, etc., feel free to ask.
So here goes:
Pads/Rotors: Power Stop Z23 or Z26 (probably Z23 for my driving style and needs)
Clutch: Either an SBC K05048-HD for ~$220-230 or an SBC K05048-HD-O for ~$335. The former is rated up to 300HP while the latter up to 320HP. It seems like either would be suitable for my needs, but I've been advised that the latter would be less likely to burn out sooner. But it's also ~$105-$115 more for just 20HP more clamping power. Does anyone know what the real-world difference between the two is, for my driving style & needs?
Throwout Bearing: Pretty much everyone advises literally throwing out the aftermarket throwout bearing and getting the OEM one instead, which is sourced from several makers, including NSK. Is the NSK 48TKT3202 ok, or should I go to a Mitsubishi dealer and get it from them?
Timing Belt: I was going to get the Gates complete kit, with water pump & hydraulic tensioner, but was advised to get the more basic kit and buy the OEM tensioner separately. It's pretty pricey at $110-$140, but if it's the right part then it's the right part.
But are the rest of the Gates parts ok, e.g. belts, idlers, (non-hydraulic) tensioner, etc.?
There's also the SKF TBK167P kit, which also includes 2 cam seals and a TB cover seal, for $13 more. Is this preferable to the Gates, or is the Gates ok and get the $21 Dayco SK0079 seal kit separately?
Water Pump: Gates 42163 for $25 or AISIN WPM012 for $40
Thermostat: STANT 45869 (195 Degree)
Belts: Gates 9260 (WP/PS), K040372 (A/C) & K040390 (WP/Alt)
Spark Plugs: NGK BPR6ES
Plug Wire Set: NGK 9634
PCV Valve: FRAM FV266
Air Filter: WIX 46264 or K&N E-2875
Fuel Filter: HASTINGS GF288
Oil Filter: FRAM TG7317
Oil: Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic High Mileage (skip the HM & get non-HM?)
Transaxle Oil: Mitsubishi OEM 75W-85 or Motul Gear 300 75W-90
Transfer Case Oil: Red Line 58404 Lightweight Shockproof
Rear Diff Oil: Red Line 58404 Lightweight Shockproof
Power Steering Fluid: Mopar ATF+4 or Valvoline ATF +4 Full Synthetic
Brake/Clutch Fluid: Valvoline DOT 3/4
Coolant: Prestone Concentrate
That's about it, for now. I WILL get the flywheel looked at and resurfaced. Thanks in advance.
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