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rabenne's street car

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Very good points, Ludachris! I have never done any on-track driving (although its been a dream of mine for long time)... so I could probably get away with doing less than a lot of guys on here, like yourself.

I am also in Wisconsin where we rarely see the high 80s so that plays a part as well.

I've been monitoring my oil temps when I cruise and make pulls to ensure the way I am using the car doesn't result in high temps (because I have no oil cooler). The highest I have seen it get after several pulls was 203°F and it cools back down to 150-ish while cruising. Turns out the big aluminum pan does an okay imitation of a cooling fin when it gets some air moving past it. I wont add a cooler until I see higher temps than that, and hopefully wont have to vent the hood, but ducting is going to happen either way. LOL
 
Started getting the fans laid out in the push orientation. SNUG fit. Took some cutting of the fan's plastic housing. See what I mean about this model not really being a slim fan?? These suckers are 5 lbs 1.5oz EACH. I mounted both, and got them trimmed, but my phone died so this is the only pic I got tonight.

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Pretty happy with the minimal trimming it took to fit such substantial fans in that location. I didn't get anything closed up/ducted but I will spend some time on that tomorrow. The main place I am worried about is between the IC and the lower rad support, and that should be a fairly easy area to close off. The sides could use some "flaps" but I dont think I want to spend the time doing it unless I need to.

I also was reading the box the fan came in and noticed it says 40A @13V for these fans. The graphic I found online said 30A @13V ???!?! Def going to need a bigger fuse in the block (abs fuse slot) where I hijacked power for the relays.
 

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I am running the 1505 and 1522 models in the 92 Talon Auto car and it is the one with the 180* SuperStat. Car always runs 190ish. Your fans are gonna work GREAT.
Have you seen the Champion 3 core radiator?
I stole that Mitsumoto X out of my 90 that is down currently so I bought a replacement that is from Champion. It was about $100 cheaper but looks identical except the top tank is not embossed, just pretty, flat aluminum.
Just putting those out there for all of your followers Will.
I love the progress you're making and DOCUMENTING!!!
Marty
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Put the car back together, check to make sure the hood still closed, it does! great right? Well I kinda wish it hadn't, because I assembled the latch and bumper without connecting the hood latch release cable.Now my hood doesnt open.
It doesnt look like this is going to be easy to get open either. I might just hole saw thru the bumper cover to undo the latch bolts. I am not sure what else to try. I searched a little bit, but most people have cable issues, not cable-not-connected issues.

damn!
 
Man.......that IS A BIATCH. If I can come up with a solution I'll post it.
Maybe my son has had that issue, he's the 2g dude so I'll ask tomorrow.
That totally SUCKS. :banghead:
 
@1990TSIAWDTALON great find on that radiator man! I wish I had known about it because I dont really dig on logos and labels. Nice to know about though, who knows what the future holds LOL

I got the hood back open and solved my problem without destroying anything, yay!

Drove about 100 miles and had 5 solid WOT pulls. Zero overheating, no overflowing/bypassing the cap. It doesn't like to cool as well at speeds less than about 40mph now, so I will be tweaking my settings for the fan triggers until everything is where I like it. No big surprise because there's a fan trying to block the airflow now (downside of push fans). I am currently testing with one fan relay disconnected, and with the one (1) fan on at lower vehicle speeds it cools very well, which leads me to believe I need better ducting, but could just supplement with the fans if I had to.

I am super impressed that one fan kept me under 203F after 15 mins of idling upon returning home. I am also shocked that it is so loud that I can hear it when the car is idling. I am going to plug-in the second relay and see how it performs tomorrow. In retrospect, I wish I had bought the 10" paddle version to save all the hassle of mounting these 12" fans. Two 12's is certainly going to be overkill!

Edit:

I can hear the fan with the car idling from 40 feet away at my back door.... wow thats a loud fan
 
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Glad she stays cool, that is the objective!
 
Drained the coolant flush out and it came out straight black. Nasty smell! I wish I had taken before and after pictures of inside the head, but essentially it now looks like fresh aluminum. Pretty happy with the results of the flush, so I ran the hose thru it until it came back out the lower t-stat housing nice and clear. Then refilled it to 70/30 mix with a bottle of purple ice additive. I used the lisle spill free funnel setup and allowed the car to cool before pulling the funnel and capping it. And yes I squeezed the air out.... You cant tell in the pic, but I am holding a very very bright flashlight behind the bottle... nothing showing thru...

20200831_220201.jpg


Took the car out and its not bypassing any coolant into the bottle, the level hardly changes at all. It does seem to be spiking ECT during pulls though. Tonight I made a pull starting at 200°F and by redline it was 226°F. As soon as I let off it dropped back to 206°F, then quickly back down to 200°F. Nothing funny with the wideband, so its not excessive heat from running lean.

I noticed this behavior before, but it was only after it had bypassed enough coolant thru the bottle to run the system low. Not real sure what the problem is now, but I am still on the MLS HG. On my previous t-stat I had three 1/8" holes drilled to allow coolant to bypass the t-stat. This was to simulate the deleted FIAV, oil cooler, and heater core. Without them installed the system has no way to bypass except through the rattle valve on the t-stat.

First thing I am going to try is swapping the other one back in. It was a cheapo Stant, non-superstat line 180°F. The one on the car now is a motorad ultrastat, 180°F, with no holes drilled. Maybe its not going through the coolant passages quickly enough because it all has to flow through the small opening on the t-stat??

I am getting a new pressure sensor for my defi setup and will install it in the lower t-stat housing to monitor system pressure during pulls. I can just plug it into the fuel pressure sensor input as long as I use the same sensor.
 
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I gotta ask.......how did you get to the hood latch?
 
@1990TSIAWDTALON
I pried on the hood right at the latch, got enough space to remove the latch bolt on the right side using an extension and swivel 10mm socket. once that was loose the hood had a lot more free play to be pried up, so I removed the 4 10mm screws that hold the black plate around the latch, and wiggled it around until I could get the other latch bolt. Right around that point the latch released (I guess I was tweaking the cable around just right LOL.

I have some scuffs on the bumper primer (from 2013). but I didnt actually have to hurt anything to get in....

I will add that I spent a while trying to get it from underneath first, but just couldn't get the angle I needed to push the release far enough. Those attempts did make the latch release return spring disappear into thin air, so I had to borrow one from a spare latch after finally figuring out why it wouldnt lock...
 
With the other t-stat in (the one with 3 - 1/8" holes drilled) the car likes to hover right at 180F. Full pulls raised temps from 180 to 200F. Still feels like a sharp temp rise, but I never watched for it before...

I checked a log from 2017 and a log from last summer, and both show increases in temp of about 14-20F during a full pull.

Does anybody else see this in their logs? Or have I had a problem for a long time??


EDIT: I searched on here "WOT log" and looked at a bunch of them. None show a sharp temp rise like this. Finally HG time?
 
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With the other t-stat in (the one with 3 - 1/8" holes drilled) the car likes to hover right at 180F. Full pulls raised temps from 180 to 200F. Still feels like a sharp temp rise, but I never watched for it before...

I checked a log from 2017 and a log from last summer, and both show increases in temp of about 14-20F during a full pull.

Does anybody else see this in their logs? Or have I had a problem for a long time??


EDIT: I searched on here "WOT log" and looked at a bunch of them. None show a sharp temp rise like this. Finally HG time?
Everything I looked up said tstat, low coolant, bad flow, rad cap and gaskets.. So hopefully when you change the head gasket it will fix the problem. If it is the hg do you think it would show signs of a leak? Well anyways Good Luck:thumb:
 
My temps rise about 3* during a full pull (from 190 up to 193) Will.
 
Everything I looked up said tstat, low coolant, bad flow, rad cap and gaskets.. So hopefully when you change the head gasket it will fix the problem. If it is the hg do you think it would show signs of a leak? Well anyways Good Luck:thumb:

Thanks. I hope so. Its been leaking a long time if its the hg and I would expect to see some signs. It could also be a crack somewhere. I never had issues last summer, but in the logs it looks like the temp was spiking during pulls and I never really noticed/thought about it.

fingers crossed its just the head gasket and the composite one solves the issue. If it needs decked then I am going to beef it up and build it again. I like the idea of the project but my wallet could use a break. I dont think pistons and rods are cheap these days.
 
I talking to a guy I work with about your problem with the temp rising during pulls and he said maybe because the water pump is driven off a pulley that when you slow down so does flow thus causing the temp to rise..just a thought

That's the opposite of my symptoms. The temp is high during the pull and goes down instantly when I let off.
 
I am going to auto swap for now. While its setup with auto ill try to rebuild the manual trans for a different project, or perhaps buy some PAR gears in a year or two and swap back to manual. I dont want to go automatic, and I know very little about them, but its the logical move with a car making this kind of torque.

If you guys have any good resources about auto DSMs please point me towards them. I am going to spend the next week trying to read up on the swap before I start tearing the auto awd down next weekend.

I really dont even know what the automatic dsm trans needs to put up with the power. @1990TSIAWDTALON? Anybody?
 
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Kiggly 5 or 6 pak front clutches, Translab 175 shift kit and a SmartShift 100.1 TCU, New end clutches while your there.
Auto shifter and cable.
You can probably just leave the clutch pedal assembly in the car if you want, not really a difference except it being in the way for the swap.
I don't think I left anything out but just shot them off the top of my head :)
 
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