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2G 1995 talon tsi starts dies after 2 seconds

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EaglesTalon

Probationary Member
6
0
Aug 13, 2020
Parker, Colorado
1995 talon tsi replaced short block, forged internals, rebuilt head, all stock except 14B turbo and 255 fuel pump, been 10 years to get it back together. Engine starts, runs 2 seconds and dies. Replaced fuel filter, replaced fuel pump with 255 walbro,jumped fuel pump, pump works, verified timing, replaced Cam angle sensor, after all this same problem. Disconnected crank angle sensor, engine no start, reconnected crank sensor, engine starts runs 2 seconds checked FPR no fuel leak from vacuum side, disconnected MAF engine will stay running but stumbles, reconnect MAF engine dies in 2 seconds. swapped in known good MAF same problem. Cleared codes and restart, no codes on scanner,
all grounds connected on engine
Kicked left front tire still no difference, Anyone have a possible answer thanks
 
Check your iac, possibly is stuck. Disconnecting the battery and letting the ECU relearn fixed this same problem for me once.
 
Might still be the fuel regulator (on the end of the fuel rail) leaking fuel back to the tank. The pressure should stay for hours/days in the rail when the engine is turned off. But if the regulator is leaking it's gone in seconds. You could temporarily pinch off the return line with a clamp/fingers to see if it stays running. Or just buy a new one as they are cheap.
 
Thanks for the reply's . Disconnected battery ,then reconnected battery same problem, disconnected iac electrical connector, same problem, Installed afpr, set pressure @ 43 psi while running with maf disconnected (runs but stumbles) reconnected maf engine still dies in 2-3 seconds. reconnected iac made no difference, did notice fuel pressure gauge goes to 0 after engine dies but back to 43 psi upon start, if maf disconnected with engine running.
Still stumped if anyone one has any other input would be great
 
Have you done a boost leak test? Worth a shot to check ecu as well. If it runs with the maf unplugged.. could be alot of things.
 
with the engine dying in 2 seconds did not even consider boost leak as it s not running long enough to build boost.Engine will rev up with maf disconnected but have noticed some back firing type noise in manifold when revving it up. All connections are tight its all newly installed never been off the jack stands yet
 
Better safe then sorry. With a big enough leak after the maf under vacuum unmetered air could be entering the intake and could cause something like this. Would explain why it runs without the maf plugged in.
 
tested and cleaned iac, tested good and operates as advertised. Haven't performed boost leak test yet will try to complete this weekend.Took a break from it for the last week Open to any other ideas to check or test thanks
 
Sorry for the long delay been busy. Purchased a new MAF and installed. Tightened and re-clamped all intercooler piping, engine now starts but will not idle, can feather the gas pedal to keep it running but runs bad ,backfire thru intake occasionally running very rich . Pulled plugs all firing but covered in black soot, tested injectors with ohm meter all @ 2.7-2.8 ohms, connected snap-on code reader but has no codes, not sure what else to test. Was thinking possible coolant temp sensor to test next, Any ideas would be great thanks
Right rear tire was off so after kicking it I noticed no difference, so kicked them all, as well as my other cars tires, still no luck
 
Back from the dead. Retired and put car in storage for the last 2 years. . Just started it and still will not stay running without feathering pedal.. Have not performed boost leak test but engine is never in boost just trying to get it to idle. Open to any ideas of troubleshooting this thanks
 
Yeah you have a vacuum leak. Also im assuming you are using stock fuel injectors

If the car runs better with the maf unplugged the car is getting more accurate readings from the map sensor about the engine vacuum

Easiest way to check this is by doing a boost leak test to see where the vacuum leak is coming from. You can also keep the car running with the maf sensor unhooked and try spraying carb or brake cleaner vigoursly around the intake manifold and injectors. You should also make sure the pcv valve isnt stuck open and leaking vacuum into the valve cover

The easiest way to perform this test is to make a block off plate for the jpipe at the turbo from an old license plate. Put the block off plate as a gasket betweek the turbo and jpipe to block off the turbo from leaking pressure out of the test

After you block the jpipe opening use an air source to pressurize the turbo piping and connect a manual pressure reader to the intake manifold to see how much pressure is going into the intake manifold. If the system cant hold 2-3 psi you will hear a hissing noise and be able to feel air escaping the intercooler piping or intake manifold

If you want to throw parts at it without doing a proper boost leak test you can start by replacing the intake manifold gasket to the head and block off all vacuum nipples on the intake manifold. The other common leak area is the fuel injector o rings to the intake manifold, use a boost leak test to verify the seals are properly sealing and not leaking air into the manifold

You can also try using a smoke test for a vacuum leak, but smoke test machines are pretty expensive

I had a similar situation after a rebuild, I did a boost leak test and found out i used a 6bolt intake manifold gasket and it was leaking vacuum from the intake manifold gasket
 
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Back from the dead. Retired and put car in storage for the last 2 years. . Just started it and still will not stay running without feathering pedal.. Have not performed boost leak test but engine is never in boost just trying to get it to idle. Open to any ideas of troubleshooting this thanks
It's a bit concerning that the fuel pressure drops to zero when the engine dies. Maybe recheck fuel pump install. I recall 2gs having o-rings etc that can leak.
 
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