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Shaving down the engine bay

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Jays99Spyder

Proven Member
167
59
Feb 22, 2020
Waukegan, Illinois
Hey guys I have a few questions I'm sure that has been discussed on here many times but here it goes. I' going to start diving back it my 99 spyder gs(6 bolt swapped) and I want to clean her up because she's been sitting and time was not to good to her. At the same time I would like to get rid of the unnecessary stuff, plus I need to get a battery which leads me to my next question. I want to relocate the battery but I've seen on here ppl talking about getting a smaller battery and moving it down. If I decide to do this what size battery was used and because it's smaller was a better battery used like a gel top ect. was something used to brace it? How hard is it really to move it to the trunk because this option seems so much easier. Any step by step on removing stuff and pics definitely help considering I get lost sometimes in diagrams.

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Last edited by a moderator:
I saw your post in another thread about looking for an answer, this is the best I can do.

Extreme psi sells the jmfab battery tray pre packaged with the battery it’s designed to host. It sounds like it may be what you’re looking for due to the necessary removal of some non essential equipment to fit it in the lower location.
Hope this helps.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/JM-Fab-PC680-Small-Battery-Kit-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-95-99.html
Lol
I saw your post in another thread about looking for an answer, this is the best I can do.

Extreme psi sells the jmfab battery tray pre packaged with the battery it’s designed to host. It sounds like it may be what you’re looking for due to the necessary removal of some non essential equipment to fit it in the lower location.
Hope this helps.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/JM-Fab-PC680-Small-Battery-Kit-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-95-99.html
Lol...that battery is almost the size of my daughters power wheels battery. I would need to see more pics of this not sure how much out of the way this is.
 
It sits lower cuz it bolts to where the charcoal canister bolts up i Can take it apart and show you on the weekend by how much
Not sure if mine had a charcoal canister with the 4g64 but if it did I dont remember LOL, I did this swap so long ago. I'm going to take a look at it and start taking stuff apart.
 
I cringe a little when I consider the unintended effects of this philosophy toward a presumed improvement in performance. Engineers in the 90s spent lots of time and hard lessons learned on how to build a car that starts, steers, stops, and runs pretty good most of the time, with good power and safety. One example is the nifty little ball-bearing check valve in the fuel vent line that prevents fuel from simply pouring out in a rollover accident. Delete that and you wouldn't even see a difference, unless you roll the car, and then get burned alive. (it's kind of a "Y" looking fitting on the firewall). Emissions equipment is certainly dead weight on a track car, but often this is part of the rather complex system of components that work together. I'd look carefully at what others have done, and documented very nicely in many posts on this site if you want to successfully make performance enhancements, and match them to your uses and goals for the car before grabbing tools and yanking things out. If you don't use if for much street use other than occasional fun, I'd look at the cat delete option to start, as that will likely be the best, simplest mod you can do to free up some tq and Hp. Read the very well informed technical upgrade guides for sound advice, and focus on basic maintenance. A little more power, and a little better brakes and handling will be cheaper, more reliable, and more fun than you will achieve by haphazardly thinning out the engine bay. If you can live without it, delete A/C, since all that's way heavier than a the different between battery sizes. A smaller battery can lead other electrical gremlins, like fuel pump issues under peak load, if not accounted for with wire upgrades or voltage regulator setting. Pretty much it's all be tried before, so learn from others on this.
 
I cringe a little when I consider the unintended effects of this philosophy toward a presumed improvement in performance. Engineers in the 90s spent lots of time and hard lessons learned on how to build a car that starts, steers, stops, and runs pretty good most of the time, with good power and safety. One example is the nifty little ball-bearing check valve in the fuel vent line that prevents fuel from simply pouring out in a rollover accident. Delete that and you wouldn't even see a difference, unless you roll the car, and then get burned alive. (it's kind of a "Y" looking fitting on the firewall). Emissions equipment is certainly dead weight on a track car, but often this is part of the rather complex system of components that work together. I'd look carefully at what others have done, and documented very nicely in many posts on this site if you want to successfully make performance enhancements, and match them to your uses and goals for the car before grabbing tools and yanking things out. If you don't use if for much street use other than occasional fun, I'd look at the cat delete option to start, as that will likely be the best, simplest mod you can do to free up some tq and Hp. Read the very well informed technical upgrade guides for sound advice, and focus on basic maintenance. A little more power, and a little better brakes and handling will be cheaper, more reliable, and more fun than you will achieve by haphazardly thinning out the engine bay. If you can live without it, delete A/C, since all that's way heavier than a the different between battery sizes. A smaller battery can lead other electrical gremlins, like fuel pump issues under peak load, if not accounted for with wire upgrades or voltage regulator setting. Pretty much it's all be tried before, so learn from others on this.
I want my engine bay to look clean and not so cluttered. Maintenance is obvious something I'm going to be working on replacing lines ECT. but while doing that I want to free up space. This thread was about cleaning up the engine bay not about maintenance and performance. I already have 3" turbo back straight Apexi N1, arp, 16g, fmic minus 1 hard pipe, 1gbov, pump rewire, better clutch flywheel, v3link, wideband and boost gauge and more. So that being said performance isn't what I'm concerned about in this thread. The things I'm wondering about is freeing up space and relocating stuff and maybe replacing hard lines for flex to reroute things...that kind of stuff.
 
Ok, I get it now. I should have looked at your mods list before putting my foot so far into my mouth. Perhaps your title and casual description made me assume the wrong thing, so no offense meant. Even though I respect the engineering and design from the factory, there is no doubt that some level of parts bin and bean counter influence leaves some room for improvement. I can relate to your desire for more tidy routing from having swapped out my steering rack and hoses, which required me to lay across the engine on my belly and contort my arm and wrench through the birds nest of stuff. I’m useless on advice for this, and wouldn’t know where to even start. But post photos when you get into it!
 
Ok, I get it now. I should have looked at your mods list before putting my foot so far into my mouth. Perhaps your title and casual description made me assume the wrong thing, so no offense meant. Even though I respect the engineering and design from the factory, there is no doubt that some level of parts bin and bean counter influence leaves some room for improvement. I can relate to your desire for more tidy routing from having swapped out my steering rack and hoses, which required me to lay across the engine on my belly and contort my arm and wrench through the birds nest of stuff. I’m useless on advice for this, and wouldn’t know where to even start. But post photos when you get into it!
I apologize for the snarky response I'm just stressed out from how this covid is affecting my job, and wife's and kids schooling so I can even find the time to work on the car. So if I can find time to squeeze some man hours on it that I have a solid game plan of somewhat so I don't waist my time and actually get something done.
 
No apologies necessary. I was off-base in my comments, and I didn’t find your reply to be snarky. I am curious about why some warn against relocating the battery to the trunk. While it’s not really lighter, it does help with weight distribution, and especially your goal of more space/ cleaner under-hood. This was a routine tuner mod on all kinds of makes and platforms, and even comes stock now from several mfr’s. Given the proper size wire (welding cable?), and perhaps a dedicated ground wire too. I haven’t researched it much, but others seemed cautious.
 
I used to have my battery relocated to the hatch but switched to the pc680 with the STM tray. It's a much simpler and lighter setup than the relocation. Wire tucking and relocating the fuse box goes a long way in cleaning the bay up too.
Not to be a downer or anything but your strut towers are looking pretty rough.
 
I used to have my battery relocated to the hatch but switched to the pc680 with the STM tray. It's a much simpler and lighter setup than the relocation. Wire tucking and relocating the fuse box goes a long way in cleaning the bay up too.
Not to be a downer or anything but your strut towers are looking pretty rough.
My plan is to sand all this down and paint it and replacing bolts when I start pulling stuff out. When I did the swap years ago I cleaned it all up but sitting for so long destroyed all my work.
 
My plan is to sand all this down and paint it and replacing bolts when I start pulling stuff out. When I did the swap years ago I cleaned it all up but sitting for so long destroyed all my work.

Yeah the rust is on the inside of the tower between the layers of sheet metal. If you sand it down and paint over it, it will rust through again sooner or later. Only real way to fix it permanently is cut the rust out and patch it with new metal.
 
Yeah the rust is on the inside of the tower between the layers of sheet metal. If you sand it down and paint over it, it will rust through again sooner or later. Only real way to fix it permanently is cut the rust out and patch it with new metal.
Maybe down the line this will be something I would consider but for now this is my plan and believe it or not a good portion of that is surface.
 
Is this battery intended for daily driving needs?
Not sure but I’ve driven daily with no problems and now the car is for the weekends and starts up fine even after two weeks of sitting the battery is about a year old
 
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