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ECMlink What am I doing wrong?

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90'AWDTalonFroggy

Supporting Member
225
72
Feb 1, 2014
Curryville, Missouri
Hello all,

I am stuck, I'm trying to learn myself, but I can not for the life of me get my AFR on my gauge to match what link is saying. IDK if its because i'm using the AEM x-series 30-300. this specific p/n is not listed in link. So I am using linWB, I have done what Scott laird on YT said to do to try and get them to match and I still haven't been able to get it so. My afrest is closer to what my gauge always says then anything. I know I have it hooked up correctly per @gofer post. I haven't messed with anything tuning wise since I got the car other then changing the switchpoint from 2.43 volts to 3.12 volts. Originally it had an innovative gauge, I am not sure which one. But the cable from o2 to gauge was destroyed, so I switched it to the AEM, as I had it already BNIB, I'm thinking of just getting a new cable and putting the innovate back in. What is your suggestions? What am I doing wrong? What should I be looking at. or looking for? I think part of the problem is it seems it was tuned just for the track not cruising. Am I right/wrong?

1st log is a cruise
2nd log is at idle

My gauge consistently reads around 11.5 at cruise, idle it seems to sometimes stay locked in open loop, sometimes closed loop.

Thank You
 

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Is your gauge grounded at the same point as the ECU? My gauge and Link were not reading the same and @95GSXracer had me move the gauge ground to the ECU ground point (where the ECU bolts in) and viola, the two match now. I did not know about this until Kevin told me a few weeks ago. It fixed my readings.
Your cruise and idle should be reading around 14.7-15.3.
 
Quick follow up on your video as I am actually doing this right now as well. I am still on the stock MAF, so altering the speed density cell to idle at 11.0 probably wont work for me. Can just adjusting the global fuel temporarily achieve the same result?

Thanks.
 
Is your gauge grounded at the same point as the ECU? My gauge and Link were not reading the same and @95GSXracer had me move the gauge ground to the ECU ground point (where the ECU bolts in) and viola, the two match now. I did not know about this until Kevin told me a few weeks ago. It fixed my readings.
Your cruise and idle should be reading around 14.7-15.3.

So you're saying just ground to the body of the ecu basically? Not actually to pin 26 ground, or pin 92 sensor ground correct? I may have to try this first before doing the linear calibration posted above then.
 
YES. I had my gauge grounded to a close point on the pillar. I moved that ground to the ECU mounting bolt and now the two agree with each other. This was on a LC-2 Innovate WB.
Worth a try, worked for me. Glad he said something about it!!!
 
Quick follow up on your video as I am actually doing this right now as well. I am still on the stock MAF, so altering the speed density cell to idle at 11.0 probably wont work for me. Can just adjusting the global fuel temporarily achieve the same result?

Thanks.
Play with it. Change your global to a BIGGER NEGATIVE number from what it is now. Say it says -65 now, try -68 and look at your AFR's. After that you will be looking to get the Combined FT and STFT as close to zero as you can with deadtimes.
What is your global right now?
 
Wouldnt I go less negative to force the car in open loop to idle at 11.0 (ie adding more fuel)? I already have my global and deadtime tuned for my injectors and my LTFT's hovering close to 0. This is just a temporary adjustment to get my wideband voltage value for the 11.0 AFR case.
 
If its tuned then don't mess with it but the motor really wants stoich at idle and cruise.
Yes you would make the global LESS NEGATIVE to richen up the mix!
 
These are my settings for the same WB. It is dead on for me I set it up as a linear wideband
 

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Quick follow up on your video as I am actually doing this right now as well. I am still on the stock MAF, so altering the speed density cell to idle at 11.0 probably wont work for me. Can just adjusting the global fuel temporarily achieve the same result?

Thanks.
Yes, or sliding your MAF sliders up in the Hz range you're idling at will effectively add fuel too as long as it's locked in OL. If you want to leave the sliders alone you pull fuel by making the global adjustment more negative and you add fuel by making globals more positive.
 
TUNE 1G SD ECMLINK NOMAF <--- Use this .pdf file

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Awesome thank you, I will definitely try this as soon as I get home.

So I tried this, but car during idle is still stuck in open loop, so I cant force it into open loop to try what the video was saying. But I may or may not know part of the problem. Idk if it is, but I read your write up from way back in 2010, (I know it's been 10 years and gauges are slightly different now I'm sure) and in the write up it says to wire the white wire to ECU pin#4 which it already was from the innovate gauge, so I just connected it the white wire to the already soldered wire. But the attachhed file says to wire it to the pin#16, if I'm reading correctly, so I'm now confused as to which is right or wrong, should I swap it to pin #16 and then cut that wire instead so just the gauge is going to the ECU pin?
 
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Is your gauge grounded at the same point as the ECU? My gauge and Link were not reading the same and @95GSXracer had me move the gauge ground to the ECU ground point (where the ECU bolts in) and viola, the two match now. I did not know about this until Kevin told me a few weeks ago. It fixed my readings.
Your cruise and idle should be reading around 14.7-15.3.
My gauge is not grounded to the exact same spot as the ECU is, it's to the same piece but not the same bolt. The PO has it grounded on the left side of the center console.
As to @95GSXracer, I have been talking to him in PM a little bit, as he was the one to originally do the tune in this car. He told me there was something off with my gauge volts, and there was I hooked up the blue wire instead of white wire for some reason:banghead:. I got that fixed, fixed a few other wiring issues. But said when I fixed that issue the rest of the problems should work themselves out, as it seems the issues were tied to the gauge being incorrect. But havent been able to get the AFRS matched up. I also didnt want to keep bothering him, as I'm sure he has more important things to do at this time. I will definitely try the new ground solution if the first possible solution dont fix it.

Thank you
 
My gauge is not grounded to the exact same spot as the ECU is, it's to the same piece but not the same bolt. The PO has it grounded on the left side of the center console.
As to @95GSXracer, I have been talking to him in PM a little bit, as he was the one to originally do the tune in this car. He told me there was something off with my gauge volts, and there was I hooked up the blue wire instead of white wire for some reason:banghead:. I got that fixed, fixed a few other wiring issues. But said when I fixed that issue the rest of the problems should work themselves out, as it seems the issues were tied to the gauge being incorrect. But havent been able to get the AFRS matched up. I also didnt want to keep bothering him, as I'm sure he has more important things to do at this time. I will definitely try the new ground solution if the first possible solution dont fix it.

Thank you
You and I BOTH know he's BUSY. Just wanted to let you know how we fixed my gauge not matching what link said. Your ground is probably fine since its on the console. Mine was on the A pillar. Once I moved it to the console/ECU bolt, it all lined up.
 
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