1G Need Some Direction

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

So I have gotten to a point in my rebuild that I don't really know what to do next. I am very much an amateur in the car world. Just recently I got my car down to where I moved so I can work on it again and its been a handful. I just rebuilt my throttle body to finish fixing the boost leaks, and (to get an idea of the mess I was left with) replaced the injector wiring since it fell apart from being just taped together. I'm now stuck looking at my ECM Link logs not knowing what else to do, it is running pretty rough. It seems that my MAP sensor is acting up as if I barely touch it the cars characteristics seem to change immediately. I will post a log shortly from my laptop. Any input on what I should be working on next would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time!

 

[Vegas Smith]

Your TPS needs to be adjusted to hit 0.63 volts at idle. Your battery voltage is also low at 12.8v while the car is running. My car runs terribly at that voltage. There must be an issue with the battery or alternator. Fix those and report back.

 

[JeffGS-T97]

Are you running an oem MAP?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Are you running an oem MAP?

His log says Omni 4-bar

 

[AWD-Tony]

Under ECU input, ecu side, change wideband to front O2 instead of Baro.
Start here for Global -61 deadtime 330 for 1150 FIC https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata
Change your knock cel to 2 under dash
Change your coasting fc to 0 https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/revlimiters

If you're wiggling wires and the car acts differently, there's something wrong with wiring or connectors or sensor. You're not logging the map sensor. Capture then display the map sensor.

You also have a pending code 0041 injector circuit malfunction

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Thank you all very much for your input!

Vegas smith, yes I noticed that too. I have a new alternator and this battery looks very cheap and old, I'll be replacing that and seeing what difference that makes.

JeffGS, the car came with the MAP sensor installed (whoever installed it had the vacuum line attached to the cruise control... its that kind of car atm trying to track these issues down) and so far it looks identical to the MAP sensors on ECMs website which is the OMNI 4 bar.

TK, ok I will make those adjustments, and good point about tracking the MAP so I know if I need to replace. As for the 41 code, I must have forgotten to clear. I had one injector not squirting as I came to find the ground wire was hand twisted together under tape and not soder together, it just came apart without my knowing. That was fixed and I will double check the code.

Again thank you all. I will adress these ASAP, this will give me some goo work to do.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Are you using ecmlink sd cable?

If you are, input is wrong. I'm using links sd cable and this is how mine is set

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[Uncle Jacks Hands]

No, its the pigtails that you have to splice into the harness (the green plug with the red blue and black wires). I did it about a year ago so I need to jog my memory and I followed a write up I believe I found on these forums, I can see if I am able to find it, but I believe I have everything assigned correctly. In regards to the front 02 assignment, does the WB need to be spliced into the front 02 wires to do that?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Ok. I haven’t done that so not too familiar with that way.

You're simulating O2 with your WB. You have to wire the output to ecu, then tell it where it is.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3narrowbandsim

 

[Vegas Smith]

Ok. I haven’t done that so not too familiar with that way.

You're simulating O2 with your WB. You have to wire the output to ecu, then tell it where it is.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3narrowbandsim

I didn't see that. That's a huge problem and most likely the main issue.

 

[jed344]

I see you are running what appears to be evo timing map. If the car is on e85 you can run much more aggressive then that. As well the fuel target map will be off quite a ways from what I would target. I just slapped this together. Something more along the lines of this is what I would start with.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Quick update before the rain came. I purchased a new battery, this seemed to have helped slightly but it still looks low, I really hope its not the alternator as the current one hasn't even seen more than 30 miles (the battery is an AGM if that matters). I will see what I can address with this this weekend. ECU input side was changed to front 02 from Baro, knock CEL was changed to 2, coasting FC was changed to 0, MAP sensor is now being logged, Global fuel since running E85 I calculated it to be -41.7% with 330(micro?)seconds of deadtime. The MAP acted up again when it was physical touched as you can see in the log, I will keep digging into this, I still cant get any consistency. Thank you all for your help this is already a lot of progress.

Jed, yes thats exactly it, it took and evo timing map because I didn't trust was I was originally given. Thank you very much for that map I appreciate that. I will upload that tomorrow.

 

[Vegas Smith]

TPS is still not set correctly. Still a charging issue.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Vegas smith, I ran out of time I will be fixing the TPS today and hopefully figuring out the charging issue as well.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Ok, so I fixed the TPS voltage issue and the car finally started trying to cycle the O2 simulation I think. I bought a voltmeter to test the alternator and battery etc, ecmlink is showing the battery being around 13.3V however my meter was showing that during idle the battery, alternator fuse, and alternator itself was showing 14.35V. Could that just mean the battery needs charged properly or something?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Your biss screw either needs to be adjusted or you have a large vacuum leak. Your isc is at zero meaning it's trying to reduce air/your idle but can't.

Do everything on this page: https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/dsm-idle-control

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Vegas smith, thank you very much for that direction, this seems to be where a few of my problems are, looks like I will be busy for a bit. My ISCPosition is pegged at 0 at idle regardless of the BISS location, and my RPMs have been the most controlled since the BISS was adjusted. Thank you again, I will update when I can.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Giant vacuum leak or broken isc or isc drivers.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Alright so he's the most recent update. I am having trouble getting the ISC position to 30. I tested the power to the ISC and it seems to be fine, it also does react to the BISS being adjusted. I did another BLT and I am not seeing any real leaks, the only leakage I am hearing is air going through the oil return on on the turbo from what I can tell, it easily gets into 20PSI before the tester launches off the turbo. Could the throttle body plate not be aligned properly or something? I feel like I am missing something right in front of my face. Here are the latest logs. Also, I noticed a small crack in the exhaust manifold has formed, but that should cause issues with the ISC position right? Thank you for your time.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The FIAV can leak air and it won't show up on a BLT. I had that happened for a couple of years until I finally figured it out.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

So due to Covid, there seems to be quite the back order on FIAV gaskets as I have been waiting over a month for one. Is there anything else you would recommend I focus on in the meantime? Could I start adjusting the speed density tables a bit or would that be redundant until I fix the idle?

 

[AWD-Tony]

I’d wait for the gasket or order it from somewhere else. I hate taking the tb on and off. You can throw a little rtv on it

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Ok, so I installed the new FIAV gasket and it seemed to make a pretty significant difference, however I cant get it to stay at 30 after fully warmed up, even with BISS adjustment, it's much closer but not quite there yet. I am going to go through the Sigma Six DSM Idle Control steps again, but is there something I am missing? I did yet another BLT and the only air escaping I can hear/find is when I put my ear to the oil cap opening. Also, should I just block off the FIAV or pull it off again and throw RTV everywhere? Attached are the two most recent logs. Thank you for your time yet again.

 

[Uncle Jacks Hands]

Alright so another update because I am completely lost again. I went to change my timing belt and found out it was off at least one tooth, so that has been fixed. It dropped my Airflowperrev down into the mid to upper 20s, made my ISC average drop at temperature though. I would like to avoid blocking off the FIAV if I can. I did yet another BLT and I have no leaks, did compression test and everything checks outs. So after watching a few more videos, one with ECMlink mentions that if your WB is acting weird it could be wiring, so I found a few free floating ground wires (Ill attach pics) and grounded them to chassis, and it really gave me crazy readings in link (No pins are missing in the ecu). Ill attach a log with the new timing belt, one with the ground bundle grounded, and I will add pics of the ground wires I am talking about. Any help would be appreciated as I am stumped again.