EBC not working.

[TupperWare]

I wired up my Ingersoll EBC confirmed it is working. I have it wired to the stock BCS wires, getting power with key on, i grounded the other wire to a bolt and I can hear the solenoid turn on. BUT when I try to activate the BCS via ECMLink there's nothing, no click and I tested the ground wire and it's not grounding (unless car has to be on?) I pulled the ecu out and wired a wire directly off the ecu harness to the controller. I also noticed that the 3rd smaller plug that the BCS wire is on is gray and has different wire colors on it that someone switched but I traced all the wires and they do go back to the original wires so the wires are in the right pin location. With the wire ran to the engine bay I still get nothing. I'm starting to think that there's something wrong with my ecu. When I watch the datalog and switch it on and off thru ECMLink I see it switch for 0 to 1 and so fourth. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

 

[Vegas Smith]

How are you activating it in link? Can you post a log?

 

[AWD-Tony]

There isn't a way to manually activate the bc solenoid through link. You have to set the duty cycle at given rpm. When you do this, the ecu grounds the circuit. That's how it's activated. Post a log.

 

[TupperWare]

I was clicking the BCS button in the misc I think tab. I’ll have to set it up again and go out and get one. I’ll see if maybe I set it up wrong it is my first time messing with an EBC.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I was clicking the BCS button in the misc I think tab. I’ll have to set it up again and go out and get one. I’ll see if maybe I set it up wrong it is my first time messing with an EBC.

You're right. You can activate it in misc tab, but for some reason mine isn't highlighted. It takes some time to dial in especially if you're using each gear. More time if you use error correction feature.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/bcssetup

 

[GST with PSI]

You should be able manually actuate the solenoid with ECMlink. In order to do so, you need to disable the boost control function and set the solenoid to operate as it would in stock form. When you make those config changes, you should then get the option to manually cycle the solenoid using the checkbox.

If you do all that and you still can't get the solenoid to function, you likely have burned ECU drivers. Pull the ECU, open the case and use this reference to inspect the board:

http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Board=UBB11&Number=1194088&page=0&fpart=1


Follow this how-to. It specifically shows you how the configurations are done correctly to to ensure the BCS functions properly:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/e...with-stock-boost-control-solenoid-bcs.474792/

If you post a log we can check your configuration settings for you.

 

[TupperWare]

I’ll need to get a log and also have you guys look at a weird stutter I have when I tap the gas quickly and why the car sometimes wants to die when I rev or come to a stop where the idle sometimes catches around 450rpm or just dies. But I see mentions of the ISC driver I might look into, I tried tipin fuel adjust for the stutter and says to log TPS Delta but it stays at 0 no matter what.

 

[TupperWare]

Okay here's a log, did 3 pulls have 2* of knock I saw. There's a bit of cruising where I let off the throttle and get back on and it bucks the car back and fourth and when I go from a stop it it stutters and starts to want to die and I actually died on me and had to bump start it at the end of the log it shows this. In the pull it shows WGDuty at like 35-39% I have it set to about 30% but still has the 17ish psi I've had. Also just noticed my Intake Temps is stuck at 77 degrees. It's a GM temp sensor and GM 3 bar. This is my second car I've tuned since my last one. So feel free to go through and let me know of anything that needs changed. I also think my airflow per rev is kinda high at idle. This log had lights and AC on for my radiator fans car still has AC. I see it wants to die a lot especially when I have an electrical load on it while pushing the brakes. Also see that it's not logging a value when I turn the AC on it stays at a constant 0. and my battery voltage seems pretty low, and gets lower as I go up in rpm as low as 12.2 on the last pull. At 110 sec is when you can see a stutter getting on the gas while making a turn.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Your SD table is out of control. I think that's why its bucking.
Fill out your profile page.
Get your ISC to 30 while the car is fully warmed up and ALL accessories are OFF. Work on your SD table to get your AFR's in line and make it somewhat smooth.
Since you didn't check "disable error correction" and your target is 21psi, I believe EBC is working correctly.

 

[TupperWare]

Yea it’s not happy cause I wasn’t able to get the airflow per rev to where I wanted it and it’s a mess . I forgot to disable it before the pull, and I did set my isc to 30 about 3 times fully warm no load and it keeps moving for some reason. But what about the low voltage in boost?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Yea it’s not happy cause I wasn’t able to get the airflow per rev to where I wanted it and it’s a mess . I forgot to disable it before the pull, and I did set my isc to 30 about 3 times fully warm no load and it keeps moving for some reason. But what about the low voltage in boost?

You lowered the 50hz slider in Maf comp so zero those out. Have you done a blt? For low voltage, start a separate thread and obviously check battery and charging. I installed an additional line from the alternator to the fuse box and upgraded cables from fuse box to battery and the ground from battery to chassis which help. Voltage went from low 13s to high 13s. Make sure your ps pump isn’t pissing fluid all over the alternator which is very common. From what I understand, the voltage regulator is in the alternator so maybe it’s time for a new alt

 

[TupperWare]

I don’t remember changing the maf slider I might have by accident I’ll have to see. I haven’t done a leak test cause I haven’t gotten anything yet to do it I know I need to do it and I’ll have to see about the alternator. But I’ll start with the ve table and injector scaling to get it cruising good.