The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

2G Idle, boost gauge, power feels low

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sjd6795

Proven Member
614
121
May 14, 2014
Wilsonville, Oregon
Been tackling a few issues I've solved some things and others still havent figured out yet.

At high RPM at 15 psi my car would hit what feels to be fuel cut. So I rewired and installed a walbro 190 and it still seems to have the same issue.

Sometimes usually when the car is warmed up it will die if I push the clutch in to pull up to a stop sign. Other then that idle is perfect both cold and warm.

My boost gauge is an autometer I havent changed anything from the previous owners install. It seems he uses a hard nylon type line but it's small maybe an 1/8th. The issue is sometimes it stays stuck at 0 psi during idle when it should be reading vacuum. Boost reads fine but then it just drops back down down to 0 when idle.

Car just doesnt pull that hard like it use to, timing is fine, boost leaks are fine, could this be related to heat soak? I have a fmic so that seems unlikely though and outside temps are 70s. Could this issue be why my boost gauge reads 0 at idle could the wastegate be stuck or anything?
 
What about your BOV or turbo condition?
New tdo5 small 16g just put on, new gaskets and everything was torqued to specification no leaks around the manifold or anything. And BOV is being recirculated and sounds fine nice noise when letting off gas and nothing tees into the line it has it's own seperate vaccuum source.

Right after install it pulled hard then got weaker. Car was previously tuned at 15 psi on a 14b so I dont think 15 psi on a 16g would change a whole lot I did rewire fuel pump and upgraded to a walbro 190 to compensate.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3228.jpg
    IMG_3228.jpg
    389.8 KB · Views: 82
  • IMG_3222.jpg
    IMG_3222.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_3225.jpg
    IMG_3225.jpg
    42.4 KB · Views: 93
Ok good so that's not it, unfortunately there are so many things that can cause that, I know because I tried almost all of them before fixing it.
Its odd that it wasn't happening at first, I was thinking maybe your running out of fuel, I believe that's about 107% injector duty cycle on stock injectors, (at least it was for me on a cxracing 20g at 15psi)
 
Ok good so that's not it, unfortunately there are so many things that can cause that, I know because I tried almost all of them before fixing it.
Its odd that it wasn't happening at first, I was thinking maybe your running out of fuel, I believe that's about 107% injector duty cycle on stock injectors, (at least it was for me on a cxracing 20g at 15psi)
So possibly injectors next.. My car is also a 2.3l stroker I don't know if that would make things much different. a 20g at 15 psi flows a lot more then a small 16g at 15 psi. I can turn boost down to like 12-13 and see if it does it I guess.
 
You have some misinformation. Fuel cut has nothing to do with lack of fuel. Adding a fuel pump and rewire will not change anything if its fuel cut. If you're on stock injectors 16g and a front mount you are very likely out of fuel. Biggest fuel pump you can find still won't fix it. Fuel cut is based on airflow.
As far as boost gauge get rid of that nylon line. It leaks. That won't be the cause of your problem. Likely, if it's always done this, the line is plumbed into the fuel pressure vacuum line and if so its on the wrong side of the solenoid. You will boost, get off throttle and the gauge snaps back to zero. Sound familiar?
 
You have some misinformation. Fuel cut has nothing to do with lack of fuel. Adding a fuel pump and rewire will not change anything if its fuel cut. If you're on stock injectors 16g and a front mount you are very likely out of fuel. Biggest fuel pump you can find still won't fix it. Fuel cut is based on airflow.
As far as boost gauge get rid of that nylon line. It leaks. That won't be the cause of your problem. Likely, if it's always done this, the line is plumbed into the fuel pressure vacuum line and if so its on the wrong side of the solenoid. You will boost, get off throttle and the gauge snaps back to zero. Sound familiar?

It doesn't always stay at zero it's 50/50 sometimes it goes to zero other times its around 17-21 vacuum. It's installed correctly, but I will replace the nylon line when I can I will have to get barb fitting as well as the autometer gauge has the swagelok style nuts for the nylon line.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top