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2G FP Green shaft play

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Brandonjffrs96

Proven Member
116
22
Nov 2, 2019
Bronson, Michigan
bought this turbo off a guy on marketplace, he said that it was like new and had no play whatsoever. clearly he was lying but whatever. i paid $650 for it flat so i think i might be ahead on the deal. as you can see there is one spot where the blades are touching the housing and its starting to cause fade/wear there, you can hear it in the video and see it. theres like no in and out play just a lot of shaft play. how much to get it fixed? who do i send it to? even worth keeping? it came with a couple an lines and oil lines as well.
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I hate to be the told-you-so guy on journal-bearing and used parts....but looks like a rebuild is needed. @JusMX141
haha i know. but a rebuild isnt that much right? and i found a bunch of rust so im trying to save where i can tto get that fixed up and the paint. then im really considering the fp black bb now that i have the stim check LOL
 
Rebuilds are super easy by the way, and parts are usually like 50-75$, I did my trucks garrett turbo no problem, but I didn't have any shaft play or contact, it was preventative maintainance.

The main issue is you need to balance everything afterwards. And its one of those things, you may as well let someone who knows what theyre doing, and has all the proper tools take care of it.

Justin was very reasonable on my custom build/rebuild. He machined out my s16g cartridge to fit a 20g wheel and actually saved me from a local machinists poor work.
 
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If the compressor can rub the housing, it needs serviced. For a Green with enough shaft movement that the wheel can hit the housing, you definitely overpaid unfortunately...because who knows what you'll find when you get in there (grooved shaft or bearing housing hurt from contamination, etc).

Most of these units had +.005" bearings installed at the factory which screws up the ability to buy a typical parts kit and be able to service it yourself. That and all FP journal bearing turbos are assembly-balanced on a plane balancer and then cartridge-balanced on VSR, so if you deviate from any of the installed thrust parts or wheels whatsoever you'll absolutely need to get the assembly rebalanced before installation.

then im really considering the fp black bb now that i have the stim check LOL
First of all, if the Green is an upgrade to what you currently have on the car...then the Black shouldn't even be considered. The Black will only be useful if you're able to rev beyond 9000rpms and have extensive supporting mods otherwise it's going to be extremely-laggy and fall entirely out of boost between shifts. Any time you make a substantial upgrade in turbo size you need to add any two of the following: boost, displacement, or RPM. If you're not increasing the displacement you need enough boost pressure and RPM to justify the size of the turbo; otherwise stick with something smaller and more-streetable.

Secondly, ball bearing vs. journal bearing is 95% durability and 5% transient response. When comparing two turbos of identical wheel and housing size you're not likely to notice any substantial gain in spool time with the ball bearing cartridge over journal bearing. The two major benefits are that ball bearing can take momentary lapses in lubrication in stride and typically isn't effected by on/off/on throttle situations from certain types of racing like rally or autocross; the downside is ball bearing typically costs 30% more initially and often twice or three times the price to service (if it's able to be serviced), and has zero tolerance for oil contamination.

Just make sure you know what you're getting into before you spend a serious chunk of change on something that is nowhere near what you're looking for.
 
bought this turbo off a guy on marketplace, he said that it was like new and had no play whatsoever. clearly he was lying but whatever. i paid $650 for it flat so i think i might be ahead on the deal. as you can see there is one spot where the blades are touching the housing and its starting to cause fade/wear there, you can hear it in the video and see it. theres like no in and out play just a lot of shaft play. how much to get it fixed? who do i send it to? even worth keeping? it came with a couple an lines and oil lines as well.
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Very well said information from above by Justin! I thought I'd mention I had both wheels contact the housings in my old turbo (71hta). It was being overran at the time but was also shut off once it was pushing oil. Needless to say it needed new wheels/shaft/internals with a full refresh. I had my work done at Fp (numerous times) for a great deal in my opinion but I'm sure theres some other options! You wont be disappointed if you do opt for the Fp/Xona bb platform! Always make sure its getting fed the correct oil and correct pressure and line set up. (size fittings location etc)
 
Just to follow-up on the situation for this exact turbo and educate other members as to why you should always consider any used turbo to be a rebuildable core unless you know the exact vehicle it came from personally...here's what I discovered once pulled it apart- the bearing housing was so jammed full of oil contamination that the compressor-side journal bearing needed to be driven out of the housing. The bearing housing was ruined, the turbine shaft was ruined...the only parts which didn't sustain damage and require replacement were the compressor wheel, compressor housing, and turbine housing. Considering the purchase price and the cost of the repair, he would've been better-off buying new.

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Again this isn't always the case with everyone selling used parts but be sure to ask plenty of questions...most-importantly ask if the turbo had been mounted to an engine which blew or not. In reality the value of this example should've been more like $250 which would've allowed plenty of room for a proper repair but there are plenty of dishonest sellers out there just looking to get something sold.
 
Just to follow-up on the situation for this exact turbo and educate other members as to why you should always consider any used turbo to be a rebuildable core unless you know the exact vehicle it came from personally...here's what I discovered once pulled it apart- the bearing housing was so jammed full of oil contamination that the compressor-side journal bearing needed to be driven out of the housing. The bearing housing was ruined, the turbine shaft was ruined...the only parts which didn't sustain damage and require replacement were the compressor wheel, compressor housing, and turbine housing. Considering the purchase price and the cost of the repair, he would've been better-off buying new.

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Again this isn't always the case with everyone selling used parts but be sure to ask plenty of questions...most-importantly ask if the turbo had been mounted to an engine which blew or not. In reality the value of this example should've been more like $250 which would've allowed plenty of room for a proper repair but there are plenty of dishonest sellers out there just looking to get something sold.
Luckily for me I used paypal protection so I actually got the turbo for free. So I did come out on top on this one. Thanks Justin for the amazing work, love the turbo. FYI to anyone on the thread I have gsc stage 2 billet cams with gsc high rev beehive springs. 9k revs is possible.
 
The bearing housing was ruined, the turbine shaft was ruined...the only parts which didn't sustain damage and require replacement were the compressor wheel, compressor housing, and turbine housing.

Shocked that the comp wheel was even usable. OPs vid looked like it made contact.
 
If the compressor can rub the housing, it needs serviced. For a Green with enough shaft movement that the wheel can hit the housing, you definitely overpaid unfortunately...because who knows what you'll find when you get in there (grooved shaft or bearing housing hurt from contamination, etc).

Most of these units had +.005" bearings installed at the factory which screws up the ability to buy a typical parts kit and be able to service it yourself. That and all FP journal bearing turbos are assembly-balanced on a plane balancer and then cartridge-balanced on VSR, so if you deviate from any of the installed thrust parts or wheels whatsoever you'll absolutely need to get the assembly rebalanced before installation.


First of all, if the Green is an upgrade to what you currently have on the car...then the Black shouldn't even be considered. The Black will only be useful if you're able to rev beyond 9000rpms and have extensive supporting mods otherwise it's going to be extremely-laggy and fall entirely out of boost between shifts. Any time you make a substantial upgrade in turbo size you need to add any two of the following: boost, displacement, or RPM. If you're not increasing the displacement you need enough boost pressure and RPM to justify the size of the turbo; otherwise stick with something smaller and more-streetable.

Secondly, ball bearing vs. journal bearing is 95% durability and 5% transient response. When comparing two turbos of identical wheel and housing size you're not likely to notice any substantial gain in spool time with the ball bearing cartridge over journal bearing. The two major benefits are that ball bearing can take momentary lapses in lubrication in stride and typically isn't effected by on/off/on throttle situations from certain types of racing like rally or autocross; the downside is ball bearing typically costs 30% more initially and often twice or three times the price to service (if it's able to be serviced), and has zero tolerance for oil contamination.

Just make sure you know what you're getting into before you spend a serious chunk of change on something that is nowhere near what you're looking for.
Id like to say that my first intention when starting the build was for it to be a guaranteed 9 second car. If I could hit 8’s, which has been done, than even better. I’m now going for a more street build.
 
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