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1G Best source for replacement knock sensor?

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benspilk09

10+ Year Contributor
128
68
Feb 16, 2010
Little Rock, Arkansas
Car is a '91 TSi AWD.

I'm having random phantom knock problems, and my knock sensor has lost it's goo so I'm sure it's bad. Its happening randomly under vacuum, I haven't seen it knock under boost.

Anyway, where is the best place to get a new knock sensor? Looks like OEM is discontinued. Autozone/oreilly shows they can get an aftermarket one, but I'm always wary of their sensors. It might be worse than what I have.

Anyone have a source for OEM sensors, or a known good aftermarket?

Thanks!
 
That is GREAT news. Hope it pans out. I wish I could get my Standard Motors to put them back into production also.
 
When where they discontinued? We replaced a buddies 1g knock sensor 2 years ago and extremepsi had them but I see they don't now. My buddy also got the last one extremepsi had for 2g sensors I think as after his order it went discontinued LOL.
 
who wants 1g genuine MD141510 knock sensor? for about 180usd shipping not included... item from phillipines overseas
 
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Got my hands on both (DSM & Miata) knock sensors and will be testing this once the car is back together. Will share the results when it happens, but may be a month or two...
These are just questions because I am definitely interested in alternates but they have to be asked because others may trust their motors on the results:

How do you expect to test? Do you have a method in mind that recreates on demand a dependable condition which you can compare their behavior in action (ie. engine running and under load conditions) or are you intending on doing signal analysis of the (likely) piezoelectric elements to compare frequency response in controlled bench tests?
 
I followed the "mazda lead" and found some other sensors (for 626 and Premacy I think)
E1T50371
E1T14772
FSD7
FP39-18-921
E1T14874 (looks like this one was done by Mitsubishi)

I used eyeballing as a scientific method of choice. My temporary criteria was: "does it look close enough?"

ECU is throwing 31 error (not permanently, it's 50/50 on and off) but all symptoms suggest that it's bad sensor. I did't pull it out yet, but since I have the battery relocated to the trunk I was able to squeeze my hand behind the intake manifold and grope the sensor a little bit - definitely the silicone-cap-thing is gone...

Could anyone provide some expertise? Those sensors have one more advantage from my perspective: there are plenty of them on my local market (Poland) but those are the only ones - nothing else mentioned earlier in the thread seems to be available in Europe, especially in Poland. I'm getting desperate...

Thx in advance for any insights.
 
OK, I've bought one of those sensors. I've picked the cheapest one considering it may end up as a failed experiment, anyway, here's my story...

My old sensor has seen better days...
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New one seems much better, but when it arrived I noticed that is has a one-wire plug
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and the old one employs two:
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At least the rest seemed the same
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When I've cut off the plug from the new one it figured out that there is a grounding screen around the red wire
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Just like the old one :) (it was just masked by the shrinking tube)
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And it's connected with the sensor's body
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I had a hard time disassembling the old plug, finally I managed to pull everything out but the metal fittings/ends from the plug were pressed very hard and precise, I wasn't able to unhook them to disconnect them from the wires in order to press them on the new ones (I planned to reuse those since I didn't have any matching new ones).
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I've ended with cutting the old wire near the plug and soldering it with the new sensor.
Final product looks like this:
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I don't have an oscilloscope to measure and compare both sensors but the rest checks out (it that's any comfort). Every visual aspect of the new part resembles our original one (except for the plug of course). Impedance between the ports on both sensors is 0.56MOhm but I don't know if such measurement on piezoelectric sensor makes any sense - just felt like this is the only electrical thing about them that I could measure.

Considering above, I installed the new sensor - seems to work like a charm... damn guys... I'm very happy. Looks like it fits a couple of Mazda's models from around 2005-2010 so it should be available on the market for some more time.


PS
I have no idea how do some of you build such nice galleries with thumbnails and all in your posts - the only option for me was to embed the images from an external source and the forum engine is not building thumbnails that way. I just hope my post is still readable.
I also overestimated my phone's ability to take macro photos, some are blurry - sorry for that, but I think they still present the general idea of what's going on there.
 
Thanks for following up with the results that you have. :thumb:
What year and model of Mazda did you think these came from? I am willing to look into it and see what I think.
Marty
 
Well done! Looks like you may have solved a problem that was hot topic: where to get new knock sensor for 4G63t. It doesn't surprise me much that two completely different vehicles use a very similar part, auto industry is founded on that principle. The computer logic and circuits are also likely very similar, since why re-invent it? Could have been developed by a common supplier (the way Bosch or Brembo works, for example). It would be handy to know if this part behaves the same in detecting knock, which perhaps normal running would not immediately reveal. An engine could tolerate some moderate knock for a while before damage, so it's not an easy check. At least it's running good for you now. Keep us informed as you get some miles on this setup. Thanks!!
 
What year and model of Mazda did you think these came from?y

Information from the source I bought it from (copy-pasted without any confirmation from other sources, not sure how far this info can be trusted)
Model:
  • Type, engine size [ccm] (1000ccm = 1 liter), production dates [year.month]
MAZDA, 2 (DE):
  • 1.3., 1349, 2007.10 - 2015.06
MAZDA, 3 (BK):
  • 1.4., 1349, 2003.10 - 2009.06
  • 1.6., 1598, 2003.10 - 2009.06
  • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2006.12 - 2009.06
  • 2.0, 1999, 2003.10 - 2009.06
  • 2.3 MPS Turbo, 2261, 2006.12 - 2009.06
MAZDA, 3 (BL):
  • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2009.06 -
MAZDA, 3 sedan (BK):
  • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2006.12 - 2009.06
  • 2.0, 1999, 2004.02 - 2009.06
  • 2.0, 1999, 2004.04 - 2006.06
MAZDA, 3 sedan (BL):
  • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2009.06 -
MAZDA, 5 (CR19):
  • 2.0 CD, 1998, 2005.06 -
MAZDA, 6 (GG):
  • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
  • 2.0, 1999, 2002.06 - 2007.08
MAZDA, 6 (GH):
  • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2007.08 -
  • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2007.08 -
MAZDA, 6 Hatchback (GG):
  • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
  • 2.0, 1999, 2002.08 - 2007.08
MAZDA, 6 kombi (GH):
  • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2008.02 -
  • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2008.02 -
MAZDA, 6 liftback (GH):
  • 2.0 MZR-CD, 1998, 2007.08 -
  • 2.0 MZR, 1999, 2007.08 -
MAZDA, 6 Station Wagon (GY):
  • 2.0 DI, 1998, 2005.06 - 2007.08
  • 2.0, 1999, 2002.08 - 2007.08
 
Thank you Jan! I think I found it on a 2005 Mazda MVP, or the picture looks like it, even though the part numbers from Standard Motor Company don't match the unit that they made for the 1G DSM's. Keep us updated on any knock that it DOES pick up so we can all decide if it is a good enough replacement.
Appreciate the info!
 
For sure I will.

But there are a couple of other smaller things I have to resolve first. I haven't driven it for almost a year due to fuel pump failure, fix of which developed into rear break lines replacement and lot's of other stuff along the way. But now when it's almost ready I'm very anxious to take the car on the open road again - believe me. Hopefully in a week or two I will have some info to report back.
 
Thats the part that worries me - the respnonse. The sensor would be grounded through its body and the sheathing being grounded also helps in terms of EMI shielding.

The pieczoelectric element, however, may not react to the same frequencies and the element itself needs to fall within the same electrical parameters as the original sensor to be compatible with the 1g ecu knock board and circuit. although they look the same that doesnt necessarily mean they act the same and my question is without the controllable tests and comparisons between the two sensors, how would we ever know that its picking up knock when its most critical?

For instance, isn't the MZR block these are used on made from aluminium? Or are some of the ones above the hold-over iron versions? That could dramatically change parameters, I dont know...


Be careful but good luck. I am pulling for you but it would be great if you could consult with datasheets on both sensors before you push power through an engine checked by a sensor meant for a totally different application.
 
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As I said I won't be driving much in the upcoming days, but I will let you know if I notice anything interesting.
I've also just called an automotive electronical engineer I've found nearby. He's currently sick but he said he will compare those sensors for me when he gets better. I just have to persuade a friend to lend me his working KS for a couple of days...
I know it looks almost too good to be true but think about it... what are the chances, that 10 years after Mitsubishi stopped using this part in their cars they would design a new one for Mazda, looking exactly the same but with other electrical characteristics? We know that this design is faulty (due to leaking silicone or resin or whatever that filling is). I suspect that if they were to design something different they would rather use some solid body type sensor, like in the 2G. I think this is exactly the same part. My hopes are very high but to be honest I'm known to be overly optimistic.
 
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