The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

ECMlink Please Help With Idle

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Your TPS Volts in the first picture is at .61....try and adjust it to .63. In your last picture the Idle Switch ( IdleSw ) isn't closed ( showing 0 not 1 ). Maybe needs a throttle cable adjustment though in your first picture it did show closed.

Isn’t 1 active and 0 is open? He’s a 2g so there’s no idle switch but he can use tps for this.
 
You should also log Closed Loop so you can make sure the car is in closed loop at idle.
 
These are all just troubleshooting things that we are giving you so don't take it harsh, just trying to help.
 
Yeah man, don't take it too harsh LOL I'm actually envious that you're getting so much help on an idle tuning discussion. Glad yet surprised the community is pitching in as much as they are because this topic gets covered a lot. We just want you to succeed!
 
You guys are super helpful. Im going to get back to it after work this evening and post logs after I make the suggested changes and troubleshoot. Thanks again, you guys just dont know how helpful you have been, its greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
I finally got my idle situated and now Im attempting to tune for wot. And from what I've read, this should have been done first. I started doing a 3rd gear pull but it went very rich on my wideband (9.5afr), so I let out around 4500rpm. Also, the car felt tremendously under powered. What changes do you guys suggest I make? Thanks again.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • upload_2020-2-28_11-48-12.png
    upload_2020-2-28_11-48-12.png
    25 KB · Views: 75
  • WOTpull.2020.02.28-01.elg
    265.8 KB · Views: 70
I would lean her out globally until she idles at 14.7 and do as @Vegas smith suggested and set your TPS. It is really important that the ECU see the correct values in order for the car to operate correctly. Idle should be around .64-.65 volts, you are at .55 so it needs to be manually adjust to as close to the correct value as possible and then fine tuned with the TPS adjust feature.
 
Just did another pull. It was so much better with the global at -57.8 and I checked "Enable TPS Adjustment" and "Enable Idle Switch Operation". Any other suggestions from here?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • WOTpull2.2020.02.28-01.elg
    229.8 KB · Views: 49
I adjusted the TPS again and got it to go 100% throttle and it was at .65 but somehow went to .67 after a few minutes. I let out around 5600 to 5800rpm because it was pretty rich according to the wideband gauge, aroud 9s.
 

Attachments

  • WOT.log.2020.03.02-01.elg
    120.5 KB · Views: 74
Usually that is due to heat. Causes electrical resistances to change (tps sensor) and metals to expand (throttle linkage, idle switch). Also if the throttle cable is very tight, slight shifts in engine orientation do not allow it to return exactly where it was during initial adjustment, causing a pull and slight opening.
Try to adjust on the low side of .63, not high. Sometimes that helps.

Further back abour your isc, keep in mind that it is not a feedback circuit. The ecu commands a value and its up to the isc to obey. Either it does, it cant due to issue, or it blows drivers in the ecu. If its not adjusting below 34 even if you back out the idle screw, something else is funky.

I shoot for between 30 and 40 and try not to get hung up on exact values. That still provides plenty of adjustment room when additional load is placed on the system. I dont have a/c though so only heavier draw items like headlights or my tail lights generally cause adjustment.
 
I really need help with getting my idle dialed in as its very sporadic. Mods are FIC 1050cc injectors, Walbro 450, Evo III intake mani, 1g throttle body, FP Black, FP Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin exhaust mani, Comp 272 cams, Manley valve springs. Ive attached a log of the idle. Let me know if there are any other values I need to record as well. Thanks so much.
In other words, 900+100= your 1000 idle goal. Therefore, your current coasting offset would be 100.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the help. Can we mark this post as solved? I recently had the car professionally tuned on SD but someone else may find this information useful.
 
Thanks for all the help. Can we mark this post as solved? I recently had the car professionally tuned on SD but someone else may find this information useful.

Glad she’s better. Go to your original post and select edit, then more and you’ll see resolved under 1g tab...I think.
 
One last post before I close out. I was very lucky with my car... I was unaware when I purchased the timing kit for my car it came with the early version tensioner, so my timing belt was actually a half of tooth or maybe even a whole tooth off causing it to have very choppy and erratic idle. I spent an entire day trying to get the car timed once I found it was off and then my buddy noticed the tensioner was wrong. I got the correct tensioner and had it running much better and it idles super smooth now. Just thankful I didnt destroy my engine because of this.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top