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2geezy

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Finally got around to making a build thread. I got this car on the day before new years eve 2017. I had been looking for about a year for any dsm really and this one popped up not too far from me with only 57k on it. I threw caution to the winds and went and bought it on the spot. Well I should have listened to my gut, because although its not as rough as most dsm's you see on craigslist now it still needed some TLC. It is pretty much up to date on maintenance now and I daily drove it for the summer of 2018 with no issues.

My next step right now is to bleed the clutch as the pedal stays down whenever you push it in and throughout this past summer shifting was uncomfortably notchy. After I bleed it I will decide if it needs new clutch cylinders or not. After that I will be rebuilding the front suspension, and getting some feal coilovers and enkei rpf1's. I purchased the downpipe and o2 housing that punishment racing links to on amazon and they seem ok. The flanges on the o2 housing aren't perfectly flat so I will be fixing that before I put those on. Waiting on a A pillar pod to ship out from lotek and then I can put in my innovate boost gauge. that I bought as well.
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Time to add some updates. Installed a boost gauge almost a year ago, will be getting my oil pressure and wideband in soon hopefully.
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Got my Feals installed last summer. I had an awful time getting my sway bar end link out on the passenger side but made it through. I replaced a weepy axle boot and some control arms as well when I installed the coil overs.
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I installed the STM camber kit to fix my rear camber. They sent me the wrong sized bolts unfortunately, and I in my wisdom muscled 3 in before stopping to consider the amount of force it was taking. STM sent out a kit with the right sized bolts and I drilled and tapped the holes I had messed up a size up. It worked out.
In the fall I got a Megan catback and put it on with my downpipe and o2 housing. Sounds pretty good. Not as aggressive as I was hoping so I may cut the resonator out and have it just straight into the muffler.
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Just before Christmas I sent my throttle out to TMZ to get it rebuilt as the seals were leaking. I also got a non cruise throttle cable from RTM.
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I got the Megan short shifter for Christmas as the B&M ones are all used and I didn't feel like hunting around for it. Megan seems fine. Also got a delrin shift knob to go with it.
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I actually just to it to get it aligned a few weeks ago after my coilover install (like I said I really haven't been driving it) and my toe is out in the rear which I was not surprised by. One toe arm is seized and the other is maxed out so I ordered some Volk tubular ones to fix that.
My clutch started slipping in the past few days now that I am starting to drive it which is peculiar because I have a receipt the prior owner showing it was replaced. But who knows wit these things right?
Tim with TMZ has been very helping in selecting a clutch and flywheel setup. I will be going with a Southbend SS/TZ kit and Comp flywheel. It will be my first time pulling transmission but I am pretty confident.
Took some nice photos today while I was just cleaning some things. Pretty excited for this year and hopefully driving the car more.
 

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Great progress! What are your sizing specs on the wheels and tires? I want RPF1s but am trying to go as wide as I can without having to fender role.
 
Great progress! What are your sizing specs on the wheels and tires? I want RPF1s but am trying to go as wide as I can without having to fender role.

Thanks!The wheels are 17x9 +45mm. Tires are 235/45 I think. I went with +45 and use 5mm spacers to clear the knuckle because I wanted it to tuck better then the +35. However I would just get the +35 and be done. I rolled the rear fender lip a little bit. The fronts are fine I think. It's a bit higher now then it was in the picture though. I honestly have no idea if it rubs haha, but I don't think it does or I would know. Definitely get the 9" wheels though if you're getting rpf1's. I hate the way the 8" ones look cause of the difference in spoke concave haha.
 
Some more updates. Installed my Volk rear toe arms. Spent quite a bit of time cutting out the passenger side, but the driver side came out without a fight. The Volk arms look great, at some point I'd like to put all of their arm products in.
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Over the past few weeks I got my southbend clutch and competition flywheel, competition fork and pivot ball, torque solution front and rear motor mounts. I also got my other two gauges, innovate oil pressure and wide band. I pulled the transmission. When I pulled my driver side axle there were some metal shavings on the teeth of the half shaft. There didn't seem to be anything in the fluid. I'll be reinstalling it with magnetic fill and drain plugs in after some drive time will pull those to see if they picked anything up. Hopefully not.
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My bell housing was completely black. It looks like the rear main seal was leaking a bit so I ordered that along with some other parts for the reinstall. The driver side transmission seal was leaking and I tore the passenger side up getting the axle out so I'll be replacing those as well.
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While waiting for the seals to arrive I got started on putting installing the gauges. No complications other than the fact that innovates gauges do not link up to one serial cable like I thought they would. Both the in and outs on the gauges are female 4 pin molex connectors. Kind of annoying but I'll wire something up later. Very nice to have a full pillar pod instead of two empty holes.
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At the ripe age of 23 my back decided to give out when I bent over to pick up a bolt. Couldn't have happened at a worse time as I just got my seals in yesterday and was looking forward to getting this wrapped up and driving the car again. That's gonna be on hold until I can stand straight again I guess... Until then I'll look at other peoples builds and cars for inspiration.
Here is how the car sits for now. Covered in pollen and on jack stands... Apparently where it is always going to be. :p
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Well I meant to stay up to date on this in a more timely fashion but I guess I am too lazy to type...
My back recovered enough for me to finish my clutch and flywheel install. I am still breaking it in but have enjoyed the feel of it so far.
I have been dealing with an idle issue since I got the car in 2017. It originally idle surged badly. Along with a new timing belt and some other maintenance items new front and rear o2 sensors were installed. That helped a bit but the idle has always felt off to me. I purchased ECMlink last month and decided it was time to get the idle to a point I am happy with before moving forward with anything else. I have conducted countless boost leak tests on the car and had the throttle body rebuilt.
Just over the past few weeks I got ride of the EGR and Evap canister and associated parts. The biggest boost leak I had was at the freeze plug on the throttle body. I wasn't able to find it until I had removed all of my emissions and could feel back there. I did the free FIAV delete by screwing it in and put some RTV on the freeze plug. That got ride of my boost leak. I plugged up the rest I found and can find no more leaks. It does seem to leak down quite quickly but only from the oil cap or breather on the valve cover.
Well the idle still seems to be off. As it sits right now I cannot the IAC set at 30 per all of the idle guides. My wideband also reads 15.2-15.6 at idle which I do not understand either. I really want to get the idle right so I can keep moving forward with the car. Everytime I drive it feels great but I hate knowing something as simple as idling correctly is off.
I will be posting a help threat with a log to see if I can get any insight as I am lost at this point. Until that gets solved here is a picture of the car right now and my daily Lancer Ralliart. The lancer is not anything particular special but I enjoy driving it everyday and it lets me take my time working on the very frustrating DSM.
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I honestly never thought these cars would look great on anything smaller than 18's because of the massive wheel wells. But the RPF01's look great. How far down did you lower the Feals?

I've got the Volk rear lca and trailing arms installed. Definitely top notch stuff!
 
They are really great looking wheels. I honestly don't remember and inch amount I dropped it. Its maybe 2.5 inches from the top of the tire to the fender? I think I am going to lower it some more though.
The Volk stuff is definitely great. I plan to have everything they have eventually.
 
Small update, going to try and stay more timely in my updated so I can look back at everything I do and know when I did it haha. I rewired my fuel pump using the STM rewire kit. I forgot to take a picture of the finished product unfortunately before putting the rear seats back in. Oh well.
My next step is to continue look for vacuum/boost leaks and testing my throttle area electronics as I try and get my isc to center and my idle 100%. I really want to get that straightened before adding new injectors and mods beyond intake/exhaust.
I will also be putting in a walbro fuel pump and fpr when I get them in.
 
With some help I found that my throttle plate was cracked open at idle which was what was preventing me from idling at 750 rpm. I fixed that and am now happily sitting right at 750. I also made sure to get my BISS to adjusted correctly.
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It was earlier than I had planned on buying a new turbo but I got a rebuilt evo 3 16g from Justin Whitesell. I had planned to wait to buy my turbo later on in the build but his price was very fair so I pulled the trigger earlier. Very excited to get it on later.
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Next up is to continue gathering parts to support the 16g and figure out why my MTX-L gauge and what ECMLink logs are 0.5 afr different.
Here is a picture of the car now. I need to get a new bumper and some other cosmetic stuff done eventually but that can come later.
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Another little update. I got my fuelab fpr installed. My clutch slave broke while bleeding so installed a new one. For some reason the speed bleeder I had in the old one did not open so I am waiting for a new speed bleeder to arrive today to drive the car and get the fuel pressure dialed in right. I was able to mount the regulator using the brackets included from fuelab and the install kit from extremepsi. A bit of a tight fit for the return line with the brake cylinder in the way but I got it to fit. Also had to trim my cam gear cover for the an fitting off the rail which I believe is normal. Pretty pleased with how the purple looks. It is a little flashy in the pretty much stock bay, but will go with the purple Tial bov I plan on eventually getting. Next step is to install the Walbro 255 pump.
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