AWD-Tony
Proven Member
- 6,801
- 3,735
- Sep 11, 2017
-
Cincinnati,
Ohio
So I recently had a clutch disc failure where it came apart from the rivet. I put a new disc, new pp and changed to a used light weight flywheel which I had the machine shop resurface along with .610 step height. I also shimmed the new pivot ball and changed to used forged clutch fork.
After reinstalling, it engaged right off the floor. I adjusted the master rod as far as possible and adjusted the top clutch switch so it can push as much fluid as possible. This did help raise the engagement point and is drivable now.
The position of the clutch fork in the window is dead center and when the clutch is pressed in all the way, it really isn't close to the edge of the window in the trans.
I've read all the threads and watched Jack Transmission's video. I did the drag test at 7k rpms and it does engauge.
Master and slave are about a year old from Oriellys and worked fine before.
Should I try a 2g master rod or do I need to shim the pivot ball with a thicker washer?
Thanks
Tony
After reinstalling, it engaged right off the floor. I adjusted the master rod as far as possible and adjusted the top clutch switch so it can push as much fluid as possible. This did help raise the engagement point and is drivable now.
The position of the clutch fork in the window is dead center and when the clutch is pressed in all the way, it really isn't close to the edge of the window in the trans.
I've read all the threads and watched Jack Transmission's video. I did the drag test at 7k rpms and it does engauge.
Master and slave are about a year old from Oriellys and worked fine before.
Should I try a 2g master rod or do I need to shim the pivot ball with a thicker washer?
Thanks
Tony
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