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2G Camber adjustment/wheel noise

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sinned4g63

Proven Member
320
86
May 1, 2017
Pasadena, Maryland
A couple of years ago I hit a curb and had to replace a rim, lower control arms, and sway bar end link from being bent. Since then I've also done the hub and bearing on that side, upper control arm, and tie rod ends (on both sides). Once things were done and I got an alignment the camber on the front right wheel was out something really small like -0.2. Recently since doing my big brake upgrade I've been noticing some road noise that's been getting worse from my front right wheel, checking the tires themselves the tire on that side was just about bald on the inner edge while the driver side still had tread.

While I get money together for tires and hopefully some wheels I've swapped the front 2 so the bald area doesn't get worse and it can eat a little at the "good" tire but the noise did not change sides with the tire.. I'm thinking the wheel bearing my need to be replaced again but it seems rather early and with having replaced almost everything on that side I'm not sure whats causing the camber. My worst assumption would be something frame related. If possible I'd like to adjust the camber out assuming that's part of the tire wear so I've been looking at adjustable upper control arms but seeing Megan and SPC have clearance issues with little feedback on how to fix it I'm not sure what's still available on the market that would fit with little to no modifications or if adjustable ball joints would be a better/easier option, SPC still offers the ball joints alone it seems. Anyone have any feedback or recommendations on what else I might want to check?

Tires are shot anyways but I dont think that's going to make the road noise go away and obviously won't correct the camber.
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Got the same issue, my front passenger tire has a different angle than the drivers one
 
SPC made upper a-arm anchors with eccentric bushings that will give you the camber adjustment you need. You don't need the full upper a-arm if you're trying to just fix .2 deg of camber.

If your tires wore that much you've got massively bad camber or more likely excessive toe. It's toe in combination with camber that will lead to the sloping (uneven wear) in the tires. You gotta get that checked out.

No idea on your noise because "road noise" doesn't say much. Can you better describe the noise? Is it high pitched scraping? Tire noise? what? Could be the wheel bearing, could be a loose clip in the brakes, could be something jammed in the brake pad area, or could just be noisy tires, no idea.

Good suggestion above on changing the upright, it might be bent and could explain the alignment issue. If you need one I have an OEM one I can sell you.
 
You might consider replacing the knuckle
I was thinking either the knuckle or the axle but the axle wouldn't cause camber. The reason I was considering the hub and bearing or the axle if not for the camber, the at least for the road noise.

I have a friend that might be willing to let me borrow his 17s with brand new tires until I can get mine, but I'm not trying to chew up his new tires so I'd like to fix it first. If I can get the wheels on then I can at least rule out the tires being the culprit for the road noise. Then even if I get the wheels on and the noise doesn't go away I might have 2 issues.. Would a slightly tweaked knuckle cause the bearing to get worn out sooner then later? :aha: I'm gonna try and get his wheels and tires on this weekend and suppose I should go from there.
 
SPC made upper a-arm anchors with eccentric bushings that will give you the camber adjustment you need. You don't need the full upper a-arm if you're trying to just fix .2 deg of camber.

If your tires wore that much you've got massively bad camber or more likely excessive toe. It's toe in combination with camber that will lead to the sloping (uneven wear) in the tires. You gotta get that checked out.

No idea on your noise because "road noise" doesn't say much. Can you better describe the noise? Is it high pitched scraping? Tire noise? what? Could be the wheel bearing, could be a loose clip in the brakes, could be something jammed in the brake pad area, or could just be noisy tires, no idea.

Good suggestion above on changing the upright, it might be bent and could explain the alignment issue. If you need one I have an OEM one I can sell you.
You know I started to notice it after I did my brakes, I think it was the following week. So you may be on to something with the brakes, I'll have to go back and check things out. I do also have the print out for the alignment so I'll try to find that and post what exactly it was.

As far as the noise, it's a significant groaning starting around 30-40mph and gets louder/quieter with the speed of the wheel like your driving over a bridge with grates instead of concrete of asphalt. I do also have to replace the top strut tower mounts which I'd like to do before winter so hopefully an alignment will be in the near future. It was already messed up but it obviously seems to have gotten worse.

Edit: If the ball joints would give me the adjustment to get rid of the camber, would you still say I'd need the knuckle? Or it sounds like it would be one or the other.
 
@TSiAWD666 I must have tossed the paper, I cant seem to find it. I tried to make a video of the noise while on my way home but it isnt very noticeable.
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Make sure the toe is correct. Incorrect toe causes way, way more tire wear than incorrect camber (and -0.2 extra camber won't do anything for tire wear). But it sounds like you may have something else going on. Try that other set of tires to rule that out first.
 
Make sure the toe is correct. Incorrect toe causes way, way more tire wear than incorrect camber (and -0.2 extra camber won't do anything for tire wear). But it sounds like you may have something else going on. Try that other set of tires to rule that out first.
That make sense.. I didn't think -0.2 camber would ruin a tire like that in 2 weeks. Going to talk to him tonight and try and get them swapped. My tie rod ends do have grease fittings for the ball joints, think low grease might cause a toe issue? I didn't drive the car today or I'd grease it up and find out haha I'll bring it to work tomorrow and hit it just in case.
 
With the front tires high off the ground have someone grab the each tire (one at a time) at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and push/pull on them horizontally while you look at the tie rod inner and outer ball joints to see if they are bad (eg. wheel moves before tie rod does because ball joint is worn/loose). The outer one usually wears before the inner. If inner is bad the rod will move before the steering wheel. All rods, joints and wheels should move together with no play.
 
With the front tires high off the ground have someone grab the each tire (one at a time) at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and push/pull on them horizontally while you look at the tie rod inner and outer ball joints to see if they are bad (eg. wheel moves before tie rod does because ball joint is worn/loose). The outer one usually wears before the inner. If inner is bad the rod will move before the steering wheel. All rods, joints and wheels should move together with no play.
Was taking the wheel off to check things out while I put the car up for an oil change and some oil lines and broke the wheel lock key.. :banghead: think I can get your input over on that thread while I run out to grab another?
 

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Did the knuckle today and the road noise seems to have gone away. Still have yet for an alignment but I'm feeling positive. The car stays pretty straight while on the brakes but still has some good torque steer. It was very close but my old knuckle 9n the left (ironically the newer looking one) looked a bit bent. It was hard to line them up but I held the bottom where the control arms bolt on flat to the block of wood then held the wood and the hub part flush with the ground.
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