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Transmission noise ‍♂️

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Ces4rDSM

Proven Member
119
6
Feb 2, 2019
watsonville, California
There has been a noise under my hood that worried me, did what I could until I knew I had to have a mechanic check it out. Results are: worn throw out bearing is what he says. In between shifts the noise decreases and stops on some shifts, I'm not sure whether the noise disappears when you step on the clutch since I have not touched car In 2 days I dont remember also I've been busy and tired Can anyone help me on potential risks or problems it could have ? Btw I have not changed the transmission fluid since I got it I will be inspecting the oil.
 
You didn't even describe the noise you want help with. Sigh. Are you saying that the noise IS the throw-out bearing and you want to know the risk of not fixing it? Are you saying the noise is something besides the throw-out bearing? It's unbelievable how bad your posts are.
 
You didn't even describe the noise you want help with. Sigh. Are you saying that the noise IS the throw-out bearing and you want to know the risk of not fixing it? Are you saying the noise is something besides the throw-out bearing? It's unbelievable how bad your posts are.
I have to agree here. I've seen your other posts and it's very difficult to figure out what you're saying or what you're asking. Help us help you here.
 
Yes that is one of my questions on the potential risks and maybe what could've affected the throw out bearing to make the noise I posted above. I dont go specific on my posts since I try to make it a boad topic whether I'm talking a hg or a transmision problem. Why yall so aggressive in the first place, this forum was made to interact with each other on car problems, builds, products etc. whether we know a lot about dsms or not.
 
I saw no aggressiveness, but bottom line is when it IS so broad spectrum we cant really narrow it down for you. We need to know some specifics to be able to help, otherwise we could tell you it's rear end noise when it's the TOB.

Like @pauleyman said, just helps us help you when you specify the issue or at least area you're having issues with etc.

We are really here to help! Just have to do a lil leg work yourself
 
With the symptoms you describe and the way it sounds, I would say the mechanic is correct. I would try starting it and pushing the clutch in and letting go a few times. If it definitely stops when you push in the clutch, and comes back when you release, odds are that's what it is. Well it will eventually fail while you're driving and wont be able to use the clutch to shift. So at some point while driving if it fails, you will have to dry shift it (if you don't want to tow it). At a traffic light shut the car off put it in first gear, when the light turns green start it (in gear) as it rolls forward and runs, at about 2500-3k rpm pull it into second (you'll find the sweet spot pulling it out at 3k, and sliding it into the next gear at 2,500_, etc.. 3rd, 4th. Till the next light, drop it in neutral, stop, shut off the car...rinse and repeat till you get home or mechanics shop. Least that is how I do it.
 
Yes that is one of my questions on the potential risks and maybe what could've affected the throw out bearing to make the noise I posted above. I dont go specific on my posts since I try to make it a boad topic whether I'm talking a hg or a transmision problem. Why yall so aggressive in the first place, this forum was made to interact with each other on car problems, builds, products etc. whether we know a lot about dsms or not.
You disrespect the people on these boards when you put zero thought or time into your posts and expect people to spend their time and energy reading your gibberish to help you for free..
 
No disrespect intended yall just flamed me for how horrible my posts are? I'm sorry the way I Express myself doesnt meet your standards English isn't my first language. Ok ive been asking for too much knowledge from the kind knowledgeable members here for "free" because I started out with no clue on what do and a non functioning car. Yearly memberships of 5 dollars would be great apart from donations!
 
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Thank you clipsoe, the way you describe it makes me feel like its gonna come down to that LOL XD
Hope my tranny doesnt get mad at me. Is there maybe anything that affects the throw out bearing to fail other than normal wear due to usage?
 
If you've never dry shifted before, it would be good to learn, never hearts. Just be gentle when shifting, if you miss the sweet spot at 2500, you can always rev it up to get it to slide in. As far as wear, if the part is cheap crap, or if you're the type to always keep their foot down on the clutch at stops, it wont last as long. I would say improper installation, but if you can take the transmission off, I would hope that's not the case.
 
No disrespect intended yall just flamed me for how horrible my posts are? I'm sorry the way I Express myself doesnt meet your standards English isn't my first language. Ok ive been asking for too much knowledge from the kind knowledgeable members here for "free" because I started out with no clue on what do and a non functioning car. Yearly memberships of 5 dollars would be great apart from donations!
See that would've been helpful to know that English isnt your first language.
On topic when you're sitting still in neutral does it make noise. The fewest parts are moving then. Clutch in than nothing is moving once you put it in gear and sit still. Might help narrow down which part. I'm not sure I agree with tob as the problem. I've been into too many of these units and found too many bad bearings. Still difficult to say. More info please.
 
Will try dry shifting to second just for practice since traffic can cause pressure on driving quickly or something in that aspect.
Pauleyman, in neutral the noise is still audible. Seemed that sometimes when the clutch goes down the noise fades but is still there, on some shifts the noise is not there anymore. I continue to shift (while not driving) once I get to the same gear its audible and on another it might not. The noise is not certain, that's why the mechanic inspecting my car was having a hard time figuring out the problem. Maybe at different shifts the throw out bearing might have less of a load on some spots (or bearing) cause it to make noise on and off at different shifts ?
 
I just fixed a squeaky throw out bearing (TOB) on my 1g. The middle breather hole was directly over the TOB. Anyone know if 2gs have the same breather? If so, you can remove the cover and see if that’s the culprit with the engine on.
 
Will try dry shifting to second just for practice since traffic can cause pressure on driving quickly or something in that aspect.
Pauleyman, in neutral the noise is still audible. Seemed that sometimes when the clutch goes down the noise fades but is still there, on some shifts the noise is not there anymore. I continue to shift (while not driving) once I get to the same gear its audible and on another it might not. The noise is not certain, that's why the mechanic inspecting my car was having a hard time figuring out the problem. Maybe at different shifts the throw out bearing might have less of a load on some spots (or bearing) cause it to make noise on and off at different shifts ?
No. I disagree. What gear you're in has no effect on tob. Now then the trans gears, they are involute. They create an axial load that changes under acceleration and gear selection. Getting my point here?
 
Damn you have no idea how much hope you gave me with expenses, tk106.
Pauleyman, I'm not gonna lie I have to look up words to understand you but I get you to a certain degree. You're saying a different gear shouldn't affect the tob but on the other hand trans gears could have that type of response with different gear changes due to the intricate gears on the trans gears recieving loads that differentiate with different accelerations and different gears right ? Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
If it is TOB making that noise, I’d recommend replacing it asap. Not sure what’ll happen if it grandes in there but it won’t be good. Are you sure it’s not on the timing side? Noise sounded louder on the drivers side but might just be sound bouncing off.
 
I'm having a noise by the water pump as well tk106. The 2 wheels for the alt and power steering belts weren't bolted tight on the water pump creating a little noise it faded after I tightened but it is still present affecting the TOB noise. I'm still not sure what it can be. I'm going to tighten the alt belt since I've seen on here that it is a common problem. My car is full of noises :banghead:
Dsms are heartbreaking with noise problems more than women in my opinion and I've had the car for 5 months :D
 
I'm having a noise by the water pump as well tk106. The 2 wheels for the alt and power steering belts weren't bolted tight on the water pump creating a little noise affecting the TOB noise. I'm still not sure what it can be. I'm going to tighten the alt belt since I've seen on here that it is a common problem. My car is full of noises :banghead:
Dsms are heartbreaking with noise problems more than women in my opinion and I've had the car for 5 months :D

Couple of things you can check. Think you just did a hg, correct?

Make sure both belts are in line. From the drivers side fender, look down at the water pump pulley and crank pulley to make sure belt isn’t crooked.

Remove the alternator belt and start the car. If noise is still there, remove the power steering belt and start the car. This way you can eliminate the pulleys.

If noise is still there, maybe look under the timing cover and check all the timing components.

Side note. If the crank pulley looks old, replace it.
 
TK106 Tomorrow morning the belts will start coming off to eliminate potential problems and torquing exhaust manifold (leaking) again.
When I removed crank pulley it looked in mint conditions but maybe a pulley came out bad and started wearing it out rapidly. My belt did feel less tense 2 days again when I gave it a tug.
 
Damn you have no idea how much hope you gave me with expenses, tk106.
Pauleyman, I'm not gonna lie I have to look up words to understand you but I get you to a certain degree. You're saying a different gear shouldn't affect the tob but on the other hand trans gears could have that type of response with different gear changes due to the intricate gears on the trans gears recieving loads that differentiate with different accelerations and different gears right ? Correct me if I'm wrong.
Something like. To be more specific I've rebuilt a bunch of these units. I frequently see bad intermediate bearings on the bellhousing side. The gears have angled teeth (involute). Therefore when you apply a force they don't just get radial torque they get axial also. More force on the bearing. This is also why we use tapered rollers instead of ball bearings. Add in some flex here and there and sooner or later worn bearings. I'm not saying you don't have a bad TOB. Thing is if it's in either of those areas you have to drop the trans to figure it out. You'll know for sure if you have a bad TOB. If not I suspect something inside. I can't tell you how many people I've done clutches for and I tell them they have 50 thou play in their input shaft and they just tell me to run it. Dsms unreliable...uh...yeah...sure.
 
TK106 Tomorrow morning the belts will start coming off to eliminate potential problems and torquing exhaust manifold (leaking) again.
When I removed crank pulley it looked in mint conditions but maybe a pulley came out bad and started wearing it out rapidly. My belt did feel less tense 2 days again when I gave it a tug.

If your manifold keeps leaking, and you’ve replaced gaskets, it’s probably warped. My machine shop charged me $70 to resurface both mating surface.
 
Pauleyman, that makes much more sense. I understand you better now and learned something new! Sadly yes I will have to drop trans any cheap modifications that can be done to strengthen the trans or around there?

Tk106 I'm not entirely sure if its leaking or I just didn't tighten that bottom middle bolt that's a pain to torque on the stock exhaust manifold. Suppose its warped, does that mean the head should be taken off too in order to stop the leak or just take the exhaust manifold to the machine shop?
 
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