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2G Crankshaft pulley wobble

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Most likely the inner & outer are separating from each other & it's time for a new harmonic balancer. The isolating rubber section has deteriorated & is coming a part.
 
How bad is it to replace?

Well, you already have one bolt out, so three more and pop it off. Obviously, you will need to loosen the accessory belts. If you cannot remove it due to hitting the frame rail, place a jack with some wood on it under the oil pan to support the engine. Just using the jack could damage the oil pan. You can now remove the upper engine mount on the timing side. Use the jack to slowly lower the engine on the timing side to clearance the crank pulley.
 
Well, you already have one bolt out, so three more and pop it off. Obviously, you will need to loosen the accessory belts. If you cannot remove it due to hitting the frame rail, place a jack with some wood on it under the oil pan to support the engine. Just using the jack could damage the oil pan. You can now remove the upper engine mount on the timing side. Use the jack to slowly lower the engine on the timing side to clearance the crank pulley.

That doesn’t sound too hard, when researching I thought this part had something to do with timing and I would have to take the timing belt off and stuff
 
That should come right off without even jacking up the engine, just pull the four bolts and wiggle it right past the body and it should drop down and out.
 
You need to fix this immediately. Its adding unwanted vibration on your crank. You can get replacement bolts from any hardware store for the crank pulley, they are nothing special. Inspect the pulley and make sure it has not been damaged or separated. If so, do not reinstall. You do not have to remove the center bolt, but sometimes the pulley gets stuck to the timing gear behind it. Some light taps with a rubber mallet usually break it free without issue.
 
Yes ASAP. Mine just came apart. Now I need a new cover and timing belt along w damper. Looks like you don’t have ac so just loosen the alternator belt.

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You do have to lower the engine to get the pulley to clear the frame rail. Like mentioned above, put a floor jack under the pan to support the engine and loosen the driver side motor mount. You won't have to take the mount off just loosen the two nuts on the studs and remove the bolt, the engine will move enough for the pulley to clear.
 
You do have to lower the engine to get the pulley to clear the frame rail. Like mentioned above, put a floor jack under the pan to support the engine and loosen the driver side motor mount. You won't have to take the mount off just loosen the two nuts on the studs and remove the bolt, the engine will move enough for the pulley to clear.

Guess it’s different for 1g. 1g has enough clearance.
 
You might be able to break the bolts loose first and then loosen the alternator belt

Thank you for all of the good information I will be ordering an OEM pulley at the end of this week. So floor jack on the oil pan to support engine? Also would this be a good time to swap that engine mount too? Maybe not the mount but the insert at least? If so what’s a good replacement
 
Try taking it out without lowering the engine, I have never had to touch a motor mount to take one out and I just did one two months ago, I also did my 4g64 Spyder in my driveway after work one night and never touched a motor mount and its all stock, either I'm a magician or just really good.
 
Thank you for all of the good information I will be ordering an OEM pulley at the end of this week. So floor jack on the oil pan to support engine? Also would this be a good time to swap that engine mount too? Maybe not the mount but the insert at least? If so what’s a good replacement

Before you purchase an OE, look into spending a little more to opt. a Fluidampr.
 
Before you purchase an OE, look into spending a little more to opt. a Fluidampr.

I thought about it, it seems that’s for an engine that’s modified a little more than mine. I have an egr delete and a filter for the maf and that’s about it. Do you think the fluidampr would benefit a mostly stock DD?
 
Try taking it out without lowering the engine, I have never had to touch a motor mount to take one out and I just did one two months ago, I also did my 4g64 Spyder in my driveway after work one night and never touched a motor mount and its all stock, either I'm a magician or just really good.

Yeah I’ll try to take it out without jacking the engine first
 
I thought about it, it seems that’s for an engine that’s modified a little more than mine. I have an egr delete and a filter for the maf and that’s about it. Do you think the fluidampr would benefit a mostly stock DD?

It sure will. It won't fail like the OE design.
 
Thank you for all of the good information I will be ordering an OEM pulley at the end of this week. So floor jack on the oil pan to support engine? Also would this be a good time to swap that engine mount too? Maybe not the mount but the insert at least? If so what’s a good replacement

If you have to jack the motor, put a piece of 2x4 between the jack and pan so you don’t damage the pan. But from what the 2g guys have posted, seems like you shouldn’t have to touch the mounts like a 1g
 
Man Tony, that one of yours was SUPER bad. Hope it didn't hurt anything or anyone! WOW!
 
Man Tony, that one of yours was SUPER bad. Hope it didn't hurt anything or anyone! WOW!

I know. Timing jumped too and I think a piece of the cover caused that and also damaged the tbelt. I reset timing yesterday and it was 120 110 110 110. Motor turned fine but I won't know until I get the belt next week. Fingers crossed :pray:.

I checked the damper in February when I refreshed the head and the rubber looked fine, no cracks. But I did install the alternator pulley backwards when I ported the OFH a few weeks ago and I think that with the age helped breaking apart the rubber.
 
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