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2G High idle only after driving

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MasterMatt209

Proven Member
473
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
So about 2-3 months ago I changed the alternator on my Talon and a short time after I developed a high idle. I can start the car up and let it idle in park for up to 15-30 minutes and the idle is fine. But if I go drive it around then park it the idle goes up to about 1500 no surge or anything. Throttle body was closed I double checked that while the car was running. Just not sure what this means since it’s only after driving, also the alternator I changed to is a 90 amp from a galant if that’s changes anything, it’s the exact same besides the amps.

Also I haven’t been driving the car just starting it up every few days. I’ve finally had some time to post here and see what’s everyone’s opinion. Hopefully have it running like it should again.
 
Mine was doing that, and I think it was a multitude of things, one being my fault making the throttle cable too tight, but I also think the throttle cable is sticking. I have a new one but I havent put it on yet. Ill get it swapped out tonight and take it for a drive and see what happens if it removes that high idle after driving. Then I just have to dial everything in hopefully.
 
Mine was doing that, and I think it was a multitude of things, one being my fault making the throttle cable too tight, but I also think the throttle cable is sticking. I have a new one but I havent put it on yet. Ill get it swapped out tonight and take it for a drive and see what happens if it removes that high idle after driving. Then I just have to dial everything in hopefully.

Let me know how that goes man, good luck.
 
Well I just ripped out my cruise control and put in the new throttle cable. This Georgia heat without a cover is an absolute killer. Im going to wait for some shade before I go back out and drive it. I need to make a bracket for my intake pipe so it doesnt flop around all over my clutch line before I drive it again. I should be able to get that done tonight tonight and some feedback on the high idle after I drive it.

Bottom line, there is more air getting past the throttle plate somewhere. The FIAV, ICS, vacuum leak, throttle cable getting stuck after the car is warmed up. Mine was eventually getting up to 2500rpm which whenever I unhooked the throttle cable and let it run it never got that high, even when opening the throttle plate which tells me that I probably had it adjusted way too tight without any slack in the cable and it could of possibly been sticking along with a bad FIAV.

I will try to leave some more feedback though.
 
Look up FIAV block or bypass and check it out. If it isn't done correctly, it have cause vacuum leaks when the car warms up.

Okay I will. I’ve had the car for about a year or two and it does have an edr delete so I wouldn’t doubt it if they tried to block the fiav also.

I’m gonna go ahead and start ordering some new gaskets and start some disassembly. It will give me a chance to see if the previous owner did the egr delete correctly by blocking it off or not because they didn’t use a block off since the egr is still on, I’m thinking maybe they did the soda can block off method and that’s why the egr valve is still on. Might even just hook it back up the way it’s supposed to be
 
Well I just ripped out my cruise control and put in the new throttle cable. This Georgia heat without a cover is an absolute killer. Im going to wait for some shade before I go back out and drive it. I need to make a bracket for my intake pipe so it doesnt flop around all over my clutch line before I drive it again. I should be able to get that done tonight tonight and some feedback on the high idle after I drive it.

Bottom line, there is more air getting past the throttle plate somewhere. The FIAV, ICS, vacuum leak, throttle cable getting stuck after the car is warmed up. Mine was eventually getting up to 2500rpm which whenever I unhooked the throttle cable and let it run it never got that high, even when opening the throttle plate which tells me that I probably had it adjusted way too tight without any slack in the cable and it could of possibly been sticking along with a bad FIAV.

I will try to leave some more feedback though.

Yeah the heat is a real demotivator here in Indiana. Best way to adjust the throttle body is with the elbow taken off and have a buddy in the car hold the gas at WOT and verify it’s correct and everything.
 
I dont have a turbo car, but I have a lot of turbo components ready for a turbo upgrade. I have also heard it is best to adjust the throttle cable with the throttle closed because you want a good idle. Most people I have seen just say pull it back and then back it off a little when it gets tight. It worked so that my idle wasnt at 2500 anymore after the car warmed up and after I drove it. Nothing more embarassing when sitting at a stop light and it sounds like your car sounds like its going 100 miles a minute.
 
Well, just went out got my intake somewhat stable though its not a good bracket. You might not have the same problem as me because I have a complete multitude of problems. It seems like its kind of there but I have idle surge now. I have a feeling the previous owners just didnt know what they were doing and didnt care to look into it and just started to mess with EVERYTHING in an attempt to fix whatever was going on with it at the time and now I have it to comb through it to fix the idle.

Other input would probably be better than mine since I have a plethora of stuff going on.
 
Anybody have any other suggestions? I put the egr block off on and deleted all the the vacuum lines and plugged as necessary. The car starts up and idles fine about 800-900 rpm. Only after you drive the car does the rpm go up to 1900 in park. Someone must have some insight or knowledge on why this would happen. Car can idle fully warm for over 15 minutes and still maintain a low idle.
 
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