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1G No Start - No Spark, No Fuel

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tsiawd90

Supporting Member
101
22
Nov 16, 2017
Houston, Texas
I need some help here I am stumped.

I bought a non running 1990 Eagle Talon, I have replaced the motor, fuel pump, clutch and turbo. I have everything that I can see hooked up.

The check engine light comes on for 5 seconds and goes off the boost guage goes up half way and stays.

I have swapped the ECU, I have checked the CAS position. I have checked my fuses. Nothing seems to change.

Looking for other things I should replace, check or inspect.

No start, no spark and no fuel from the injectors. I have fuel to the rail. I have a coolant light that is coming on.

Maybe I should check the CTS? Is there a way to bypass the sensor to see if that is the problem before replacing?
 
Cts has nothing to do with spark, find out why that is missing first, starting with checking power and ground at the cas.
 
Are you sure that all the connectors are plugged into the right places? I seem to remember that there are two on a 90 that can be switched and the car won't start. I forget which one.

I'd start by getting out my multimeter and makeing sure that there was power to the ignition and injector harnesses and look at why the ECT light stays on.
 
Steve is right that there is another plug that the CAS will plug into that is the wrong plug in the harness on the passenger side. I can't remember which plug it is either, and I HAVE a 90 (but it's been down for well over a year). Make sure that the CAS is in the correct connector, look around the engine bay for another open end plug that the CAS can plug into and give it a go.
 
The ECT light has nothing to do with starting the engine, There are two sensors on the thermostat housing. The 2-wire sensor tells the ECU what the engine temp is. This can affect starting. The 1-wire sensor controls the light. This light will turn on when the key is switched to ON (as a bulb check) and will remain on until the engine is started (until the alternator voltage exceeds the battery voltage).
 
I believe so but a quick check of the TPS signal would verify if it is plugged in to the correct connector.
 
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Steve is right that there is another plug that the CAS will plug into that is the wrong plug in the harness on the passenger side. I can't remember which plug it is either, and I HAVE a 90 (but it's been down for well over a year). Make sure that the CAS is in the correct connector, look around the engine bay for another open end plug that the CAS can plug into and give it a go.
This could be the problem. This is the connector that i plugged the cas into, does this look correct?
 

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The ECT light has nothing to do with starting the engine, There are two sensors on the thermostat housing. The 2-wire sensor tells the ECU what the engine temp is. This can affect starting. The 1-wire sensor controls the light. This light will turn on when the key is switched to ON (as a bulb check) and will remain on until the engine is started (until the alternator voltage exceeds the battery voltage).
Thanks, that rules that out so I can focus on other areas.
 
This could be the problem. This is the connector that i plugged the cas into, does this look correct?

I can't tell from that picture. (The FSM implys the connector sex is different between the CAS and TPS so I'm not sure you can swap these.)
The 1990 Car Harness for the CAS will have Black, Red, White, and Black wires
The 1990 Car Harness for the TPS will have Green, Green/Black, Green/Red, and Green/White wires

WRT the 6 pin connectors on the ISC and Resistor Pack.
The 1990 Car Harness for the ISC will have Blue, Red, Yellow, White, Red, and Black wires.
The 1990 Car Harness for the RP will have Black/Yellow, Open, Red, Black/Blue, Black/White, and Black/Red wires.

I don’t know if im correct now, but 1G TPS only has 3 wires in the connector/ TPS 4?
On a 90, the wiring harness connector for the TPS is 4 pins. The pigtail that plugs into it has 3 three wires running to the attached TPS and 1 wire to a connector for the IPS.
 

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I'm 99% sure this is the connector location
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Yes it does Steve. I just can't hack up a good harness.
Nice spot though.
Do you think that is the correct connector for the OP? That car has been "under reconstruction" for well over a yr.
 
Do you think that is the correct connector for the OP?

For the CAS connector. That would be my guess but I'm doubting that you can swap the TPS and CAS connections. Like in your picture the harness connectors are both 4 pin but the connector sex is wrong, so you could mistakenly plug the two harness connectors into each other but you couldn't plug the CAS pigtail into the TPS harness or vice versa.

So I'm wondering what question we are trying to answer?
 
Thinking since the OP had no fuel or spark that he could have plugged the CAS into the wrong connector on the harness.
Thanks for the help Steve!
 
How do I test to check the cas and tps connections? Do I check it at the ecu or can I check the from the connectors?

Monday I will be looking at it again hopefully I can find the problem.
 
When you engage the starter does the tach read anything?
If you turn the CAS by hand with the ignition on does the fuel pump start running?

Do you have a datalogger? A multimeter?

BTW, the radiator warning light in the cluster is for the overflow bottle. It's on when the bottle is empty. I've had to flush mine out several times over the years to free up the float switch and get it working.
 
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When you engage the starter does the tach read anything?
If you turn the CAS by hand with the ignition on does the fuel pump start running?

Do you have a datalogger? A multimeter?

BTW, the radiator warning light in the cluster is for the overflow bottle. It's on when the bottle is empty. I've had to flush mine out several times over the years to free up the float switch and get it working.

I'll check the tach I cant remember if it was moving. Aslo will try hand cranking the cas. I do know fuel is going to the rail.

I have a multimeter will buy a datalogger if necessary.

I'll look at the over flow sensor as soon as I can get it started. I'll try your flush when I get to that. What did you flush it with?
 
Lots of soap and hot water...

There are two ways the fuel pump runs on a 1G DSM.

The first is via the signal to the starter and the second is via the ECU seeing the CAS turn. Using the starter is usually how you make the second happen and that's what keeps the pump going until you stop the engine. About 5 seconds after the last CAS pulse the ECU times out and turns off the pump.

So don't hit the starter, if the pump turns on when you turn the CAS you'll know the ECU saw something from it.
 
you could mistakenly plug the two harness connectors into each other

Problem solved, the harness connectors were plugged into each other and the sensors were plugged into each other. Looks like when they put the engine in they plugged together the two sensors then the connector ends where both left next to each other so they were then plugged into each other.

Still have some other issues to work out but glad this one is solved. I've got some misfire and some oil leaking from the lower timing belt cover. Maybe this week will be the week.

Thank you everyone for all the help just glad to be moving forward and not stuck on this problem.
 
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