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1G DSM wont start

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1991eagleawd

10+ Year Contributor
88
0
Jul 5, 2011
toronto, ON_Canada
Hey guys, its been a long time since I last posted. But here goes....

I recently finished body work and paint on the 91 talon. I had not driven her in 3 years. ( except around the block to break off rust on rotors) So I wanted to take her out for a good ride. she was driving beautifully and strong for the first hour. On my way home I decided I was gonna unleash some power. Upon putting into 3rd gear I heard a clunk and smelt my clutch.

I immediately dropped into neutral and coasted to a stop on the side of the road. I felt like my clutch pedal was half the pressure it was, and I could not put it into gear. I took a look at the slave cylinder and it was doing its job and no leaks. I could feel pressure build up if I actuated the clutch with car off, so I decided to start it in 1st gear to get her home.

Upon arriving home, I noticed I was able to change gears again and that the clutch felt 70% back to normal pressure... I decided to let it sit over night before i looked into it further. The next morning i attempted to start it with no luck.

I have a battery volt meter that was showing 10.9 volts.... Enough to crank, but all I got was a click (starter i'm guessing) and voltage drops to 7v. Before this incident the battery voltage was 13.9-14.2v while running.

So I hooked up the wifes SUV to jump start, and it would only give me 11.3v with a running vehicle attached to the Talon, and again would drop to 7v upon attempted start. So I removed the battery from the Talon and hooked connections directly to the jumper cables, same thing. I pulled my wifes good battery and dropped it in the talon with same results. No crank, just a click and very low voltage.

I checked starter connections.
All fuses are good. (from looking, not using multi meter)
Grounds are good.
Clutch engage start thingy under dash/pedal is unplugged for no depressed clutch start.

Now I know this seems like two different issues, but I think they are linked together somehow.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Please excuse the mini book write up. Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If I remember correctly, pulling the starter is two bolts and the two electrical connections.
Remember to disconnect the battery before you start working. Welding a wrench to the frame tends to be too much excitement.
 
If I remember correctly, pulling the starter is two bolts and the two electrical connections.
Remember to disconnect the battery before you start working. Welding a wrench to the frame tends to be too much excitement.
Correct and yes excellent idea, I've melted a couple wrenches in my day by being ignorant or in a hurry.

@1991eagleawd pull the starter and have it tested, also double check the connections and make sure they're all clean and getting proper signal/voltage. There should be the main power feed, directly from the battery to the starter solenoid, start signal from the key with a spade terminal (12v+ with key in start position only), and a ground cable going from the firewall/battery directly to one of the starter bolts. The ground is important for current path and keeping resistance down, I've seen alot of people remove it without knowing the consequences.
so im pulling off the tranny I guess....??? :( thank you for the reply.
At the very least drain the fluid in the trans first to check for metal shavings. If you find a significant amount (post some pics) the I'd recommend pulling the trans and opening it up to look for the issue.

It sucks, but whatever the issue it might still be salvagable.
 
Thanks for the replies! Imma dig a bit deeper n get back to yall.
 
It's certainly possible you have two separate problems if you haven't really driven the car in 3 years. It sounds like the battery is dead.
 
I'm not a professional or diagnostic wizard, but my last battery died and would not take a jump and voltage would drop even further when I tried to crank the car. Can't hurt to look into it.
 
I'm not a professional or diagnostic wizard, but my last battery died and would not take a jump and voltage would drop even further when I tried to crank the car. Can't hurt to look into it.

I tried a known good battery. Same results.
 
So i found that if i remove the positive wire off the battery that goes to i think the alt (haven't traced wire yet) . I don't get a huge draw reading at the battery terminals.

So bad ground on the alt?

Would a bad alt draw from battery with no load? I just installed this GM alt last year... Imma check grounds again...

I noticed as well that even with battery connected. With the draw wire off (alt)
when i put key to on pos the battery goes right too 2-6v. Turn key off .... Wait a few seconds and hear the relay under the dash go cluck and bam 11v back on battery.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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