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Ok, the only reason I ask, and it may not interest you, but I switched from my Brembo to Wilwoods and I saved like 30 something pounds of weight, mostly from the rotors. Yours being a two piece may be a lighter set of rotors like the wilwoods, but I must say, my wilwoods stop on a dime!!!! Way better than the brembos ever did.
 
Ok, the only reason I ask, and it may not interest you, but I switched from my Brembo to Wilwoods and I saved like 30 something pounds of weight, mostly from the rotors. Yours being a two piece may be a lighter set of rotors like the wilwoods, but I must say, my wilwoods stop on a dime!!!! Way better than the brembos ever did.

Oh awesome info. Thanks. What pad were you on? And did that setup see any track time? This is going to be a new experience going from Project Mu clubracer to the Hawk blue. Excited to see how it goes.
 
Welp. Got the exhaust done today. If I don't weld for any amount of time for a while, I'll be ok with that. Also got the turbo back together, rewired the CAS connector, and some other house keeping things. Hopefully get the car over to the shop on Sunday and put the trans in and align it. Gonna be interesting getting the car on the trailer since it doesn't run.
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Loaded the car on the trailer yesterday. Brought it to my buddy's shop and put the Shep Stage 3 trans in. We also go the car running which was nice. Good to hear the car fire up for the first time since October. Just have to do some odds and ends to get ready for our first race of the season coming up on April 6th. Getting excited.
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Lime Rock was on Saturday. Had a great showing for the season opener. Got bumped into ST2 after people started questioning my straight line speed LOL. Won 1st in ST2, and set fastest time of day in TT. Got beat by a Corvette racecar by a tenth for fastest time of day out of everyone that showed up. Car did very well. Some minor issues at the beginning of the day that we got ahead of and fixed pretty easily. Also, my little boy got to come to his first race! A great weekend all around! Trying to lock down some more funding to get some tires and make it to the next event in a couple weeks at Pocono. Not sure I'll make it though. We'll see. Waiting on some GoPro footage.
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Well done dude thats awesome news! Got the car setup well and enough power now they are getting jelous of your speed LOL,
 
Well done dude thats awesome news! Got the car setup well and enough power now they are getting jelous of your speed LOL,

Set the camber up front to -3.5° with your arms. Tire temps were good. Don't have the numbers off hand. Might try and back the camber to -3°. Also, had the front toe set to .4° toe out. Not sure what that means in inches or mm. Car Definitely felt great. Still need to work on some push on the exit of some corners. We'll see how the next event goes.
 
Also, the Shep Stage 3 trans came in the other day as well. Used, but should be in a lot better shape than my transmission in the car now, that's basically two broken transmissions combined to make one slightly less broken trans.....but still pretty broken. View attachment 562877

Just skimming through your posts here and have a question re the trans issues. I am considering building an Eclipse to do some dirt oval racing and the sturdyness of the trans is of interest to me. When I road raced another car I was not really as kind to the trans as I could have been - my bad. So I'm curious as to what the problem(s) were with your trannys.
 
Just skimming through your posts here and have a question re the trans issues. I am considering building an Eclipse to do some dirt oval racing and the sturdyness of the trans is of interest to me. When I road raced another car I was not really as kind to the trans as I could have been - my bad. So I'm curious as to what the problem(s) were with your trannys.


So, what had happened was my first time at Lime Rock in '15, I sheared 3 teeth off 4th gear and wound up putting a hole in the case. I bought a trans from someone for way too much money, but at the time didn't think about it cause I wanted the fixed. Turns out THAT trans was screwed up. It would make this awful noise in 4th gear. So I took both trannies apart, took the good parts from bot combined them to make one good trans. After a few events, 4th started to become a problem, which eventually led to a missed shift at Pocono and blew up the motor I had just built. I did a couple more events with the trans, but 4th was always a problem. So now, not and issue anymore.
 
So, what had happened was my first time at Lime Rock in '15, I sheared 3 teeth off 4th gear and wound up putting a hole in the case. I bought a trans from someone for way too much money, but at the time didn't think about it cause I wanted the fixed. Turns out THAT trans was screwed up. It would make this awful noise in 4th gear. So I took both trannies apart, took the good parts from bot combined them to make one good trans. After a few events, 4th started to become a problem, which eventually led to a missed shift at Pocono and blew up the motor I had just built. I did a couple more events with the trans, but 4th was always a problem. So now, not and issue anymore.

Interesting you had 4th gear problems. A car I was looking at also has 4th gear problems - won't stay in gear. Do you know if 4th gear is an issue with DSMs?

The blown engine thing sucks - BTDT.
 
Interesting you had 4th gear problems. A car I was looking at also has 4th gear problems - won't stay in gear. Do you know if 4th gear is an issue with DSMs?

The blown engine thing sucks - BTDT.

Not sure about other folks, but my issue was from using a gear oil that didn't offer enough gear protection. Specifically BG Syncroshift. Stuff is good for a low power street car. Not that I make a ton of power, but given my cars situation, the gear protection from that stuff is lacking. I run Motul now at the recommendation of Shep trans since I have one of their trans in the car now. And yeah, it sucked big time. But that's racing.
 
So a little update: went to the garage last weekend and took the turbo and manifold out. Turns out a couple the stage 8 nuts I have on there, had just enough room to loosen up a touch before the flag leaned on the turbine housing. Must've loosened up just enough to take tension off the flanges and blow the gasket out. Which in turn, melted the wastegate hose and removed any ability to control boost. So, we tightened everything up on the bench. Modified a couple flags so that they're already up against the turbine housing, and just for good measure, ditched the braided hose in favor of aluminum tube with AN nuts for the wastegate supply. Hopefully we don't have any more issues with the turbo coming loose. Which has been an issue for a long time. Already looking to next season to try some Global Time Attack events, so we really need to lock down the reliability issues the car has. The new trans has been great so far. So now it's just trying to nail down this turbo issue.
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Do you foresee any issues with the aluminum tubes? I had problems melting wastegate lines as well (first time due to poor material choice, second time I'm not sure why with braided AN lines). Ever since I water-cooled the wastegate it's been fine, but I did consider using solid lines. I just feared the aluminum would crack over time due to vibration, but I haven't used them before to have any first-hand experience.
 
Do you foresee any issues with the aluminum tubes? I had problems melting wastegate lines as well (first time due to poor material choice, second time I'm not sure why with braided AN lines). Ever since I water-cooled the wastegate it's been fine, but I did consider using solid lines. I just feared the aluminum would crack over time due to vibration, but I haven't used them before to have any first-hand experience.

We'll see. I considered stainless steel but for ease of bending went aluminum. I plan on having it mounted very solidly to the cross over tube to minimize vibration issues. If it works well, I'll someday make it out of stainless.
 
Another little update. Started working on the front aero. Picked up some canards from a company in Texas. Pretty nice. Fit was good. They're ABS plastic sandwiched between aluminum, so they were easy to bend to the shape I wanted. Installation was straight forward. Just drilled, cleco'd and assembled. Pretty aggressive. Next time I go to the garage, I'll start working on a new air dam and splitter. Hopefully the front downforce will help with some of the understeer I've been getting on higher speed corner exits.
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Another little update. Started working on the front aero. Picked up some canards from a company in Texas. Pretty nice. Fit was good. They're ABS plastic sandwiched between aluminum, so they were easy to bend to the shape I wanted. Installation was straight forward. Just drilled, cleco'd and assembled. Pretty aggressive. Next time I go to the garage, I'll start working on a new air dam and splitter. Hopefully the front downforce will help with some of the understeer I've been getting on higher speed corner exits. View attachment 568777 View attachment 568778View attachment 568779 View attachment 568780

Those look deadly!

Ever thought of using vibe-locks instead of the stage 8 stuff? Idk if one would be better than the other in your conditions, but past that I can only think of safety wire, which sucks to do on manifolds.
 
You could always try Nord-Lock washers as well. I don't have issues with things backing themselves out but if/when I do I will be buying the appropriate Nord-Lock washer. The video is cool because it shows how the different fasteners react to vibration
 
Those look deadly!

Ever thought of using vibe-locks instead of the stage 8 stuff? Idk if one would be better than the other in your conditions, but past that I can only think of safety wire, which sucks to do on manifolds.

I thought about it for sure. But a convo with someone that had similar issues and he brought up the Stage 8's. I like them cause they're a much more positive lock. Like, there's no doubt the fastener is locked in place when the flag is up against something. I'm thinking I'll use Nordlock stuff on the suspension bits in the future.
 
You could always try Nord-Lock washers as well. I don't have issues with things backing themselves out but if/when I do I will be buying the appropriate Nord-Lock washer. The video is cool because it shows how the different fasteners react to vibration



I saw this video a while back. It's what made me consider Nordlock. But they're expensive as far as washers go, so buying them and then having them come loose would be expensive.



And that's what I wound up doing at the top of the manifold. I safety wired the tops of the studs sticking out of the manifold. Has worked pretty well so far.
 
I have nord locks for my new caliper brackets, good washers for sure,

Or you can use serrated conical washer and nuts to lock it down, i ise alot of conical washers or wave soring washers on many items and nothing seems to vibrate loose or from excess heat either,
 
Another little update. Got the turbo and everything back together. Fired the car up. Let it run for a bit. Bled the cooling system. Also decided that I'll worry about a proper splitter during the off-season as I have enough other work to keep me busy. Definitely need to make the bumper much more rigid to the car to transmit the front downforce to the chassis and not just deform the bumper. But getting the stuff done that needs to be done for NJMP in August.
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