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HX-35 BEP .55 Housing Results on 2G AWD(1/4 and Dyno)

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Finally got some time to put my Morrison manifold in today!! :D:D:D

Thank you @MorrisonFab for the parts and @black97spyder @1990TSIAWDTALON for convincing me to get it. Can't wait to get it running.

Looking great!
You are very welcome, it was our pleasure! And thank you for choosing us :)

SPAL 30101504 should fit nicely on the driver's side and have plenty of room from the turbine housing.

A few pictures showing the fitment with a Mishimoto X-Line and the recirculated wastegate option on the Morrison TS T3. It does clear thicker radiators but a fan can't be mounted driver side.

Thank you for the photos! Always surprised how thick those radiators are. Despite knowing a pusher would be needed, did the measurements end up a bit better in the end than anticipated?


Loving all the updates!
 
Looking great!
You are very welcome, it was our pleasure! And thank you for choosing us :)

SPAL 30101504 should fit nicely on the driver's side and have plenty of room from the turbine housing.

Thanks for the suggestion, do you know someone that's used that fan on a 2G? Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure we have less space than the 1G guys.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, do you know someone that's used that fan on a 2G? Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure we have less space than the 1G guys.

There is less space near the top of the radiator, but the bottom of the radiator isn't angled in towards the engine like a 1g so it opens up a good amount of room.
 
Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the oil feed line on the turbo end while it's in the car? Pretty tight with the manifold. I'm trying to tighten the other end to the oil filter housing but its just twisting and kinking up the whole line so I want to see if maybe connecting the turbo side of the feed after would work better.

My return line is also about two inches too long. Going to have to cut the line and put the AN fittings back on.

Edit: Bought a set of these and got the job done in about five minutes. I need to get another return line though, I don't think the drain is big enough to properly drain this turbo.
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Make sure the drain is around 3/4 or 19mm. I ended up getting a 3/4 drain and drilling it out because it wasn't draining fast enough... but I run a 3/4 t3 drain barb to a 3/4hose clamped to a cut 2g oil drain and it works great once you get it put together.
 
Yeah I pick up most of my stuff from RTM, they're just like an hour away from me. I'm just going to get the whole return line and fittings from them. My only concern is they state the inside of the fitting is 0.6" which is about 15mm. Am I understanding this wrong?

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17878

They are stating that a -12 an fitting is 0.60 inches at its smallest point. They mention this because the factory opening in the oil pan is 0.570 inches which is used for their bolt on fitting.
 
They are stating that a -12 an fitting is 0.60 inches at its smallest point. They mention this because the factory opening in the oil pan is 0.570 inches which is used for their bolt on fitting.

Right so the smallest point of that line/fitting setup is only 0.60 inches wide. Wouldn't that be a bit of a bottleneck for the drain? I thought the whole return had to be at least 0.75 inches(19mm) wide. I've got no problem drilling out the opening on the oil pan a little but no real point if the fitting is going to choke it anyway.
 
Right so the smallest point of that line/fitting setup is only 0.60 inches wide. Wouldn't that be a bit of a bottleneck for the drain? I thought the whole return had to be at least 0.75 inches(19mm) wide. I've got no problem drilling out the opening on the oil pan a little but no real point if the fitting is going to choke it anyway.

I've seen pretty much everyone using -10 or -12 for their Holset drains. I'm not saying it meets the spec defined by Holset but it does appear to be working for others.
 
Right so the smallest point of that line/fitting setup is only 0.60 inches wide. Wouldn't that be a bit of a bottleneck for the drain? I thought the whole return had to be at least 0.75 inches(19mm) wide. I've got no problem drilling out the opening on the oil pan a little but no real point if the fitting is going to choke it anyway.
The 3/4NPT fittings RTM sells are the closest you will get to the actual ID=19mm, don't run the necked down 12an. Make sure you get the weldon bung for 3/4npt to match the size throughout the entire drain.
 
I've seen pretty much everyone using -10 or -12 for their Holset drains. I'm not saying it meets the spec defined by Holset but it does appear to be working for others.

The 3/4NPT fittings RTM sells are the closest you will get to the actual ID=19mm, don't run the necked down 12an. Make sure you get the weldon bung for 3/4npt to match the size throughout the entire drain.

Sounds good, I'll pick it all up tomorrow. @llxkevinxll did you weld on your fitting as well or are you using the bolt on fitting with the original oil pan drain port?
 
Sounds good, I'll pick it all up tomorrow. @llxkevinxll did you weld on your fitting as well or are you using the bolt on fitting with the original oil pan drain port?

I am going to try the bolt on fitting.
 
I am running the RTM bolt on 12an drain on both of my cars and have never had a issue with them. The 12an is ever so slightly larger than the factory drain opening in the pan. I just received my second drain setup from Ziggy this last week and it is the same setup that I have on my profile car that ran a HX40 and it drained perfect even with 80+ lbs of oil pressure to the turbo.
The RTM unit is pricey (around $120) and black97spyder's setup is cheap and works like a champ so pick your poison!
 
I am running the RTM bolt on 12an drain on both of my cars and have never had a issue with them. The 12an is ever so slightly larger than the factory drain opening in the pan. I just received my second drain setup from Ziggy this last week and it is the same setup that I have on my profile car that ran a HX40 and it drained perfect even with 80+ lbs of oil pressure to the turbo.
The RTM unit is pricey (around $120) and black97spyder's setup is cheap and works like a champ so pick your poison!
What types of fittings are you using for the bolt on setup? I got two Summit Racing -12 45 degree hose ends. Using the Morrison Fab manifold and about as little hose between the fittings as you physically can fit they still seem to be tight. Is a straight fitting off the turbo instead of a swivel 45 better?
 
I think Matt (black97spyder) is using a straight fitting off of the bottom of the turbo and his stock pan tube that we cut the "spring" portion out of. He may have even cut it down shorter now. My 12an fitting on my pan and the fitting on the bottom of the turbo are both AN fittings and you are right, there isn't much room between the 2 fittings. SO....I cut my AN fittings down and no longer use the AN line, I use 3/4" reinforced rubber line and hose clamps to hold them on so it allows for a little more room between the turbo and the pan. The AN fitting I have on the bottom of my Holset is a 30* and the pan is a 45*. I mainly needed the adaptors for my pan and turbo and am going to sell any of the extra stuff I don't need or want to use. I think I will take the turbo fitting to the hardware store and get a straight 3/4" nipple and go down to the pan where I will have a 45* at.
 
Awesome info, thanks guys. I don't really mind spending the extra money for something that'll last so I'm going with the RTM kit, thankfully that should conclude the turbo/manifold install. Just have to do cams/springs and injectors/intake manifold next LOL. So much to do, so little time.

For those of you that boost leak tested your Holsets, did you guys just make your own custom boost leak tester?
 
I bought mine, I think from STM. It is aluminum with a valve stem in one side. Other side has a tbolt clamp on a silicone coupler, but let me tell you, BE CAREFUL. Those things WILL come off while testing so if you see it start to move, GET THE HELL OUT OF THE WAY!. When it comes off, its explosive. I don't trust mine staying on at high boost tests because of the porosity of the housing it clamps to.
Just a word to the wise!! Don't want you to get hurt and it will hurt you, it dented my UIC pipe very good.
 
I bought mine, I think from STM. It is aluminum with a valve stem in one side. Other side has a tbolt clamp on a silicone coupler, but let me tell you, BE CAREFUL. Those things WILL come off while testing so if you see it start to move, GET THE HELL OUT OF THE WAY!. When it comes off, its explosive. I don't trust mine staying on at high boost tests because of the porosity of the housing it clamps to.
Just a word to the wise!! Don't want you to get hurt and it will hurt you, it dented my UIC pipe very good.

Wow sounds pretty extreme, I appreciate the advice. I never would've expected something like that from a boost leak test. I'll just try to clamp the shit out of it on both ends and keep a good distance.
 
This oil return line is going to drive me nuts. Just got back from RTM and tried to put it on but the way the turbo is positioned there's no way I can get the fittings on. I've got it in the perfect position for the intercooler piping to clamp onto it but that makes the oil drain be angled a little bit towards the back of the car. So I can get that side on but now the fittings are so big that there's not enough space between the drain and the oil pan for me to get the line in. Even if there was no hose whatsoever, the fittings themselves are too long to get in there, I need something shorter. They both also have a 45 degree bend on each side which makes things harder.

I know it's a crappy picture but you can see what I mean about the fittings, they're way too long to get both of them down there in the little space between the drain and the oil pan. The only way I see this working is if I could somehow just connect the hose to the fitting that bolts on to the oil pan, I need to get rid of the swivel fitting on one side.
 

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This oil return line is going to drive me nuts. Just got back from RTM and tried to put it on but the way the turbo is positioned there's no way I can get the fittings on. I've got it in the perfect position for the intercooler piping to clamp onto it but that makes the oil drain be angled a little bit towards the back of the car. So I can get that side on but now the fittings are so big that there's not enough space between the drain and the oil pan for me to get the line in. Even if there was no hose whatsoever, the fittings themselves are too long to get in there, I need something shorter. They both also have a 45 degree bend on each side which makes things harder.

I know it's a crappy picture but you can see what I mean about the fittings, they're way too long to get both of them down there in the little space between the drain and the oil pan. The only way I see this working is if I could somehow just connect the hose to the fitting that bolts on to the oil pan, I need to get rid of the swivel fitting on one side.

I have the same issue. My drain won't fit with 2 45 degree fittings. I think you either need to use a single straight fitting in the turbo or clock the center section towards the front of the car. I haven't finalized met but that's my plan.
 
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