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1G Roll cage progress

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
This is what I have so far. Installation is a lot more involved then I anticipated. These install kits leave a lot to the user as far as fitment is concerned.... that is with notching and overall length
 

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Make sure what ever event or class you going to run in allows a halo top hoop, they are deemed the weakest design and are not allowed in many events at least here in MSA or FIA so see if the SCCA or which ever your event class is allows this. Dont want to go through this to be told no
 
Make sure what ever event or class you going to run in allows a halo top hoop, they are deemed the weakest design and are not allowed in many events at least here in MSA or FIA so see if the SCCA or which ever your event class is allows this. Dont want to go through this to be told no
Im only going for Nhra.... I couldnt see any info related to the halo hoop?
 
Im only going for Nhra.... I couldnt see any info related to the halo hoop?
They might not but i thought i would mention it incase, i know the NHRA have a load of different rules compared to circuit racing
 
Notching and sizing are by far the hardest parts. Bends are retarded easy. I always recomend people do their own cage in these cars. 1g’s work a little better with bends but 2g’s really need rolled bars for anything above head. The head to cage clearance for anyone over 5’8” is literally worse than a Miata with any cage that has straight runs on the overhead stuff. Even with rolled bars, a lot of floor cutting is required to feel “safe” but that is also a bit more subjective to personal preference.
 
Nice, tho I don't think I'm a fan of the halo bar. If I end up doing one I'll probably bend my own stuff so I can get tight fitment for my tall ass.
I haven't check the books, but I'm assuming a straight cross bar welded between the front bars is the preferred way vs a halo bar?
Otherwise it's looking good, going "full" race car @amsrn13 ?
 
Nice, tho I don't think I'm a fan of the halo bar. If I end up doing one I'll probably bend my own stuff so I can get tight fitment for my tall ass.
I haven't check the books, but I'm assuming a straight cross bar welded between the front bars is the preferred way vs a halo bar?
Otherwise it's looking good, going "full" race car @amsrn13 ?
Full race ... no but I just dont want to get thrown off the track. I need to figure out the rules before moving forward. So what everyone is saying in the preferred method is having a tube from the front to rear and then and cross bar connecting the two? Instead of two short sections and a halo?
 
Full race ... no but I just dont want to get thrown off the track. I need to figure out the rules before moving forward. So what everyone is saying in the preferred method is having a tube from the front to rear and then and cross bar connecting the two? Instead of two short sections and a halo?
that way is supposed to be a little more sturdy in the event of a crash. but the hoop/halo will still pass tech. if you are concerned about it you can always find a chassis inspector local to you and ask them. i done the same things on some questions i had with my cage install.
 
Getting these angles right is really difficult. Notching the tubing at this angle
 

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This cage will pass SCCA inspection, I dont see the angles of the downpipes from main hoop to rear of car,They should be at 30* no more, You can go to SCCA rules and it is pretty clear and some good pictures.
One thing I would do is tie the down pipes to the A pillar at the top and also as low as you can.
 
This cage will pass SCCA inspection, I dont see the angles of the downpipes from main hoop to rear of car,They should be at 30* no more, You can go to SCCA rules and it is pretty clear and some good pictures.
One thing I would do is tie the down pipes to the A pillar at the top and also as low as you can.
Im still debating on were to install the down pipes. I was thinking from the a piller to the shock towers.
 
I prefer to go back to chassis they will come very close to shock towers, you can then go diagonal to towers, or go from one to the other with a pipe, the down pipes will be so close to towers or right against it, that you could also tie them in.
 
I prefer to go back to chassis they will come very close to shock towers, you can then go diagonal to towers, or go from one to the other with a pipe, the down pipes will be so close to towers or right against it, that you could also tie them in.
So you think I’m better off cutting the ends at - 45 and welding the tubing to the floor? Rather than from the a pillar to the shocktowers
 

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So you think I’m better off cutting the ends at - 45 and welding the tubing to the floor? Rather than from the a pillar to the shocktowers
i had this question that i asked the nhra chassis inspector. all the one ive talked to liked the rear down bars being tied to the shock tower as its a very strong spot on the chassis.
 
i had this question that i asked the nhra chassis inspector. all the one ive talked to liked the rear down bars being tied to the shock tower as its a very strong spot on the chassis.
What about the dash bar? I don’t see any requirement for it in the rule book
 
I dont quite understand your question, your picture is of the rear bars, and you are mentioning A pillar.
The shock towers are not the strongest point since it is very thin metal.
I will PM you so you can call me or I can call you, that way we will be on the same wavelenght
 
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What about the dash bar? I don’t see any requirement for it in the rule book
do you mean a lower dash bar? if so you only need a lower dash bar if you have modified the firewall
I dont quite understand your question, your picture is of the rear bars, and you are mentioning A pillar.
The shock towers are not the strongest point since it is very thin metal.
I will PM you so you can call me or I can call you, that way we will be on the same wavelenght
ive talked to several nhra chassis inspectors about doing a crossbar between the shock towers and they have all said that was a good spot. and this is for a cage thats getting certed to 8.50. i noticed you keep bringing up scca rules and im pretty sure his car is built for drag racing. two completely different sets of rules for cage work.
 
The reason I keep bringing SCCA rules so he could have a basis for his points of attachments
since I think there some confusion on his part or maybe mine.
The basic cage whether for road racing or drag racing is still the same.
Cages for drag racing differ mostly around the driver.
Still going to the towers and being allowed, it is not the strongest point, it maybe legal but not the best place.
 
The reason I keep bringing SCCA rules so he could have a basis for his points of attachments
since I think there some confusion on his part or maybe mine.
The basic cage whether for road racing or drag racing is still the same.
Cages for drag racing differ mostly around the driver.
Still going to the towers and being allowed, it is not the strongest point, it maybe legal but not the best place.
6x6 1/8 plate welded to strut towers , chromoly 1 5/8 tubing. I think I’m just goin to stick with this design

Shocktower example
 

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Spent all day mig welding the interior reinforcements. More specifically 6x6 1/8 inch steel plates.I started tig welding the halo to the a pillar using er70s!. Overall I’m very happy with how it’s coming out. Its not perfect but I’m confident it will pass tech
 

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