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2G GSX needs a new engine (new build for 2019)

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kiLla187

Probationary Member
26
0
Sep 17, 2012
layafette, Colorado
Time to get this beast running. I was going with a billet block how ever things happen. I've done research day in and day out. I would like to hear from people about pros and cons with trial and error. I have a 97 GSX that has crank walk with about no more than 500 miles on new internals with a 5,500 rebuild. I am looking to still go with a 7 bolt how ever not too sure if I should go with a 92-94 7 bolt or a 98-99 split thrust 7 bolt? Any way I go I will be going with a hardened crank with newly rebuild head.
Thank in advance,
Jason
 

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If I were you, before rebuild a new engine, I would try to figure out why it got the crank walk.
Even you use a 2g non-revised block, it wouldn't cause crank walk that soon. Your car got crank walk less than 500 miles after rebuild. I believe that is caused by something else, it is not because of type of block.
Any 7 bolt block works, if you properly build the engine and being careful about crank walk. Crank walk is avoidable in many cases.
 
DSMPT
When the motor was rebuild buy this Trusted specialist shop for DSM's they added new crank and oil ports and a few other things that was shop secret. (Haha) they may have messed the block up. I went to two other specialist and suggested a new block.

I really just want the best bang for the dollar just like everyone else.
I have done hours of research on the two different 7 bolts, is it really just preference or is one really better than the other one? Looking to build 600-700hp and tune to 400-500 hp
Thanks for the help!
 
If I were you, before rebuild a new engine, I would try to figure out why it got the crank walk.
Even you use a 2g non-revised block, it wouldn't cause crank walk that soon. Your car got crank walk less than 500 miles after rebuild. I believe that is caused by something else, it is not because of type of block.
Any 7 bolt block works, if you properly build the engine and being careful about crank walk. Crank walk is avoidable in many cases.
I'm in agreement here. You need to know the root cause. Clutch?
 
DSMPT
When the motor was rebuild buy this Trusted specialist shop for DSM's they added new crank and oil ports and a few other things that was shop secret. (Haha) they may have messed the block up. I went to two other specialist and suggested a new block.

I really just want the best bang for the dollar just like everyone else.
I have done hours of research on the two different 7 bolts, is it really just preference or is one really better than the other one? Looking to build 600-700hp and tune to 400-500 hp
Thanks for the help!

Crank walk is caused not only by internal factors. External factors also would cause it, even the engine was perfectly built by a specialist. So, you shouldn't be so sure yet if the shop did something wrong or not until you figure out. You would damage the new engine again in case if your car has the cause of the crank walk.
For instance, if you didn't prime the oil enough, you kept cranking long with depressing the clutch pedal, not properly adjusted clutch, higher pressure plate with extended rod, etc. Those also cause crank walk, it would be even worse if those are combined. And those things would cause crank walk on any block, doesn't matter if 6 bolt, 7 bolt or revised or non-revised.
Check the block and the crank, if it is damaged by the crank walk then you have no choice, you go for a new or a good condition used block and/or crank.
 
This is all great formation thank you all. There is a new clutch so just maybe the pressure plate is too stiff? How ever if I do need a new motor, which I probably do as it's been in the shop for the same issue on two different occasions. And have been working on the diagnosis for that last year to make sure. Just this last time it's been to two different specialist saying that the block is done. On that note, on trial an error what 7 bolt is more ideal for my application. Early 7 bolt or late revised split thrust 7 bolt. If needed new block
Much appreciated
 
The pressure plate itself is not a problem. The point is avoid to give unnecessary side pressure to the crank/flywheel, this would be one of causes of crank walk.
For example (don't do this), if you would max out the master cylinder's rod and shim the pivot more than enough, use an extended slave cylinder rod, this would be way too much. This would make the throw out bearing traveled toward the flywheel/crank side more than the operating range of finger spring on the pressure plate.
Also you better deactivate the clutch switch. So no need to depress the clutch pedal while you are cranking. This would allow you to avoid to give side pressure to crank when the oil pressure is very low or zero.
1g 7 bolt and revised 2g block are fine. I personally use a 1g 7 bolt block on my 2g gsx. I have never had any issues.
Good luck.
 
Most of the time its from the goofy master cylinder not releasing pressure from the slave cylinder because its not properly adjusted, check this before going any further, go out under the hood and push the clutch fork towards the slave cylinder and see if its able to push back in or not, other than that theres not much that would cause that much damage in that short of a time, its not from cranking it over and that area is splash lubricated, its possible that the thrust bearing was not aligned properly when the shop assembled it, maybe thats their "top secret" step.
 
its not from cranking it over and that area is splash lubricated
I agree with most of part but with this.
Too long cranking with high side to side force could occasionally cause damages on the thrust bearing. and that would be a cause of crank walk, too. Especially if not primed the oil enough before first start up. if with a high pressure plate or/and an extended rod would be worse.
 
Awesome all great, I will definitely check thanks again. I will post here shortly to notify what way I will be going.
 
Yup time for that motor. I knew it. Thanks for all the advice. Now The last thing. I need a hand with is the top 3 shops that specialize, supplying, machine and building the new motor. That ships to Colorado or is in Colorado. (Wow what a mess) about to get this figured out . thanks again
 
First of all iam not starting this post to bash any of the shops. In my opinion both build great motors. I am simply looking for what shop best fits my needs. Looking to have a newly built short block from start to finish to produce somewhere between 700-800hp (97 gsx) I was inquiring billet but not within my budget. Any advice would be great. Ready to spend some $$$$. As always thanks.
 
Why don't you contact each shop, outline your "needs" to each and decide which is the best fit?

If I were spending my own $$$$, that's what I'd do. More importantly, what you're asking is probably not something best left to opinion, IMO.

@Boostin Performance
 
Reach out to both and see what your feeling is on both. I reached out to both and ended up going with MAP to do mine. Both are capable of building a motor to make that power but if it were me I would go with the one I feel more comfortable spending my thousands of dollars with.
 
First of all iam not starting this post to bash any of the shops. In my opinion both build great motors. I am simply looking for what shop best fits my needs. Looking to have a newly built short block from start to finish to produce somewhere between 700-800hp (97 gsx) I was inquiring billet but not within my budget. Any advice would be great. Ready to spend some $$$$. As always thanks.

Hey buddy,

We can definitely build you an awesome short block! Give us a call or shoot us an email. We'd be happy to help you out with any questions you may have!
 
Awesome, thank you for everyone's input. Much appreciated. Sounds like Boostin
 
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